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  #1  
Old 02-21-2014, 01:22 AM
ShaneHobson ShaneHobson is offline
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Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Four new gas struts arrived today (thanks Daniel).
Two for the boot (trunk) and two for the bonnet (hood).

I've fitted the boot struts easily.

Started on the front and am not sure how to pop the ball joint apart.
Before I start bashing with a big hammer or levering with a large screwdriver are there any tips from the audience please ?
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:25 AM
wdb wdb is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

I unbolted mine completeley from the hood. If you need to retain the ball end that bolts onto the hood, I would suggest doing the same and working on it on a bench.

Once you have it on the bench it is a matter of lubricating and prying. There is a spring clip inside the end of the strut that holds the ball in place. It may have gotten rusty or crudded up over the years so spray something in there to help loosen it up. Then carefully pry the ball end out.
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  #3  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:36 AM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Have done this several times and prying, twisting and pulling never worked for me.
However, two other methods did. Listed in order of ease.


1. If the struts (and ball) are already unscrewed from the hood and off the car, I threaded a nut onto the ball stud, tightened the nut in a vise and hit the strut sharply with a hammer (at the white + sign in the diagram, just below the ball and the ball popped out.

.......


2. Another way is to use a hacksaw or a Dremel wheel to cut a slot in the ball, almost down to the ball stud. Use a screwdriver in the slot and twist it until it cracks apart and pull the ball out.

Of course, there is buying a new ball stud from NAPA


It is always harder to get it off, maybe as a safety precaution. It is always much easier to pop the ball back into the new strut socket. Just hold the socket of the new strut over the ball and hit it with the palm of your hand, or a rubber mallet.

It takes a sharp impact to remove it; twisting, pulling and prying don't work.

CAUTION:
Some have tried to hit the strut with a hammer, just below the ball, while still attached to the hood. I advise against this as the impact could loosen the captive threaded nut, welded to the inside of the hood rail, that the ball screws into.
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In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
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R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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Last edited by svxcess; 02-22-2014 at 08:57 AM.
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2014, 11:19 PM
ShaneHobson ShaneHobson is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Option 1 worked perfectly.

Helpful tips.

There is a black, paper (?) washer which holds the metal washer in place at the top where the ball joint is. Make sure you put this back on when refitted the new strut. If the metal washer falls off and disappears into engine bay you'll be grumpy (learnt from experience).

Have some help, balancing an SVX bonnet on your head while lining up the top ball joint bolt is difficult.

Thanks for the help, checking the oil levels will no longer be an ugly chore to be avoided.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2014, 10:33 AM
FM977 FM977 is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Where's the best place to get the struts for the hood? Mine don't stay up anymore.
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2014, 10:48 AM
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gwynethh gwynethh is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Quote:
Originally Posted by FM977 View Post
Where's the best place to get the struts for the hood? Mine don't stay up anymore.
See post 34 of this thread
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=38819&page=4

2 each GSNI 2449-89 and the 4 ball studs ([4] BS-1002 ball studs) and nuts work better than original on our 95 SVX

search Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux if the link doesn't work

direct link to SPD
http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/d...f-161c3b516027

and

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/d...c-3731c39aafd6

Last edited by gwynethh; 02-22-2014 at 12:17 PM. Reason: bad link?
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2014, 12:24 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Re: Replacing bonnet/hood gas struts

Here is the thread to LetItSnows's strut redux thread. The information needed, along with instructions, photos and measurements, can be found on the second page of the thread.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=Redux&page=2

You can see that there are struts from SPD that fit and open the hood higher than OEM.

All part numbers are listed. This is what I did and it works flawlessly.


For the trunk struts, these are the ones to use. Slight modification to the mounting brackets, correct length and pressure, and stll allows the trunk to open 90°

http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-s...e=Rear%20Hatch



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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 02-22-2014 at 12:45 PM.
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