MAF dead spot?

[genzzel]

LOL--i was scared too, but nothing to it. It did fix his.

[Manarius]

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

Any luck yet Jason?

And in the event the cam sensor is the culprit here, I just found out it's actually right beside the crank angle sensor. Does that mean that the timing cover has to come off to change it? Cause I don't really want to do that again three weeks after I just had the whole engine bay in little bits. *grumble*

Oh, wait, seems there are TWO cam sensors. groovy. So changing one without the ECU throwing a code would only be a $168+shipping shot in the dark.

Hah. Forgot I posted this.

Aside from the bad coil pack, my hesitation is gone. If yours is missing or broken, I'd definitely replace it. OT knows his stuff when it comes to that.

[Crazy_pilot]

Do you have the part number for the check valve?

[plantchick]

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

Do you have the part number for the check valve?

Part No: #16195AA030
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/use...svxfiles|24710

Stumbled accross it in svxfile's locker while trying to work out a hesitation issue I'm having. Shame I didn't put it in the right thread...

[Dessertrunner]

Chris,
The cam angle cause lossof power and will stop the engine down low. Its the sensor on the head near the battery. If you want you can swap the sensor at the crank over with it and see if the car behaves different. Then you will know one has a problem. You don't need to take the timing cover off.
Tony

[plantchick]

Sorry, this is probably another daft newbie question. Not even sure how to phrase it, so hopefully this will make sense. How much would the TCU/ECU relearn time affect any fix tried? e.g. It did take a bit of time after my trans brake band was adjusted for shifts to settle down.

Mine has been to a few shops lately and the battery in and out like a yo-yo and I don't know if she's had enough time in between any of them to do a complete relearn. It isn't that I think its the sole issue for me or anyone else, but I am wondering if it could have implications.

So how long does it really take? Is it possible that a fix that doesn't seem to have worked, really could be the right one, if enough relearn time is given? How could you tell the difference? Is there a difference if parts are replaced vs. a simple service? I'm confused. Again!?!
(The quote below is from the online CD - page and doc link)

When vehicle battery is disconnected, this memory is lost. The computer will use default data until new data from each key start is stored. As computer memorizes vehicle operation for each new key start, driveability is restored. Vehicle computers may memorize vehicles operation patterns for 40 or more key starts.

Customers often complain of driveability problems during relearn stage because vehicle acts differently then before being serviced. Depending on type and make of vehicle and how it is equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
* Harsh Or Poor Shift Quality
* Rough Or Unstable Idle
* Hesitation Or Stumble
* Rich Or Lean Running
* Poor Fuel Mileage

http://serial.cc/

[Crazy_pilot]

Alright, ECU bead crush done. The hesitation I have is always worst when the car is cold, so I'm going to leave it till morning and than take it for a test drive. Hopefully things will be sorted out.

Man does that bead ever explode when you squeeze it with the pliers

For anyone contemplating doing this mod and worried about it, it's not really that hard. By far the worst part if getting the ECU out of the car and back in when you're done.

[Sean486]

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

Alright, ECU bead crush done. The hesitation I have is always worst when the car is cold, so I'm going to leave it till morning and than take it for a test drive. Hopefully things will be sorted out.

Man does that bead ever explode when you squeeze it with the pliers

For anyone contemplating doing this mod and worried about it, it's not really that hard. By far the worst part if getting the ECU out of the car and back in when you're done.

Let us know if it helps, your answer will determine whether or not I crush mine. -I have the same problem when cold.

[Crazy_pilot]

IT WORKED!!!

Seems that did it. There was no hesitation this morning, and none when I took it for a drive after class. I'm going to give it a couple days to re-learn and make sure it's keeping this up, but at the moment it seems to be fixed.

[Sean486]

Cool, glad to hear it. I'll try it on mine, and hopefully I will get dancing bananas too.

[ridered777]

I have had the same issue on mine for about a year...

Only does it when the engine is cold (outside temp doesn't seem to matter) and its definitely intermittent.

Being a 94, mine doesn't have an "ECU bead" to crush - correct?

Has anyone had any luck with replacing the IRIS/TPS? It seems everytime I hear of this problem, crushing the ECU bead fixes it... lucky people with '92's!

[Crazy_pilot]

The TPS was the first thing I tried to fix it. That was a $250 shot in the dark that didn't get me anywhere. I had OT check it and tune it to spec at Reading with his Select Monitor and still no dice there. I've seen the IRIS check valve mentioned as a possible cause/solution. It's cheap and seems easy enough to change.

[Manarius]

Originally Posted by plantchick

Sorry, this is probably another daft newbie question. Not even sure how to phrase it, so hopefully this will make sense. How much would the TCU/ECU relearn time affect any fix tried? e.g. It did take a bit of time after my trans brake band was adjusted for shifts to settle down.

Mine has been to a few shops lately and the battery in and out like a yo-yo and I don't know if she's had enough time in between any of them to do a complete relearn. It isn't that I think its the sole issue for me or anyone else, but I am wondering if it could have implications.

So how long does it really take? Is it possible that a fix that doesn't seem to have worked, really could be the right one, if enough relearn time is given? How could you tell the difference? Is there a difference if parts are replaced vs. a simple service? I'm confused. Again!?!
(The quote below is from the online CD - page and doc link)




http://serial.cc/

According to Subaru, the relearn time for any OBDI Subaru Legacy is 10 minutes or until the car warms up. As per the 1990-1994 Subaru Legacy relearn procedure:

Put car in park.
Turn on car.
Leave on for 10 minutes or until warm (leave car in park and don't turn on the A/C or anything).
Turn car off.

I figured that a similar relearn procedure would work for any OBDI SVX 1992-1995. I don't know if that's the case though. I've tried it with my own car and I can't really tell.

[Crazy_pilot]

Update: After a day and a half worth of my daily routine, still smooth as buttah. This includes this morning, which was below freezing. (had to bust out the credit card to scrape frost off the car)