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  #16  
Old 02-19-2007, 10:20 PM
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budfreaks tip is a great one to know... but without a diagram most people I'm sure won't understand what is being described... Don't just roll your eyes when it slides off the first time, play with the wrenches to get them lined up right, it is a great tip.
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Last edited by Speedklix; 02-19-2007 at 10:24 PM.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2007, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
budfreaks tip is a great one to know... but without a diagram most people I'm sure won't understand what is being described.
Yeah, I couldn't think of a way to really describe it and I don't have 2 wrenches handy to take pictures for a clear understanding.
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2007, 10:32 PM
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Oh I never thought about just undoing the 20 bolts first.... wouldnt like.... a WATERFALL of AT fluid come crashing down, though?

Oh my friend explained what a breaker bar was.. and here I was thinking its a part that you buy... sorry guys I am pretty damned noob. I really wish I lived near someone like Budfreak or Tom so I can just take it to them or something (since the shops and stealerships are out to getcha)
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  #19  
Old 02-19-2007, 10:33 PM
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By the way the box end doesnt even fit on the bolt anymore... but the crescent does.
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  #20  
Old 02-19-2007, 11:09 PM
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pipe wrench... Its about your only avenue out now I say grab up a new pan before you further. This way you have a new plug and all. I am sure there is a J-yard around you... grab another suby trans pan circa 1990-1997

Tom
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  #21  
Old 02-20-2007, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stallion
By the way the box end doesn't even fit on the bolt anymore... but the crescent does.
If you haven't bought a good quality socket that might do the trick. A breaker bar doesn't cost that much. (or you may be able to rent one).

Anybody think an impact driver would work? They're invaluable on motorcycles.
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  #22  
Old 02-20-2007, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stallion
Oh my friend explained what a breaker bar was.. and here I was thinking its a part that you buy... sorry guys I am pretty damned noob.
well, you can buy a breaker bar - its just a long bar that you can stick a socket on the end of.



in some cases this is needed over the other flavor of breaker bar - the long pipe stuck over the wrench for added leverage.
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  #23  
Old 02-20-2007, 11:56 PM
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2007, 01:05 AM
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Working to get that much torque while working under the car is an act serious frustration. In my opinion, I would remove all but 4 bolts from the pan, but still loosen the remaining 4. Then slowly remove one at a time, to allow the pan to tilt down and drain. Then remove the last bolt and pan and work on it in a bench vice and wood. If this is not available to you, take it to a shop and pay a few bunch to buzz off the drain plug with a pneumatic impact. Keep in mind that is this much power is required to remove, there is a high likely chance that the threads will be damaged. The threaded hole might need to be cleaned up, or even reworked and threaded to the next size up. All of this will need more of the shop like tools unless you have a very nice tap and die set laying around.

Again, my advice is to remove the pan and take it to a machine shop. They would charge the least, and have the easiest capabilities to repair what ever might have already been done. It might even require welding in a new piece of metal in the drain area. I have had to do this to an oil drain pain when some money at a lube joint thought 200 ft/pounds was the proper torque setting for my oil drain plug. Fortunately, it was not my SVX!

And by all means don't think you are a noob because some gorilla with 22" canons did a work out on your drain plug. Without proper tools, even the simplest of tasks can be mountains to overcome. I might not be an "active" mechanic now, but I did work at the Subaru stealership for 2 years.
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2007, 01:07 AM
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This is (I believe) the trick Budfreak mentioned. Very handy when you've already got a wrench on something and need some more leverage.

Note: Spark plus is used from demonstration only and is not included in kit.



As shown here I would be pulling down. If I tried pushing the wrench would just slide apart.

And a closeup on the connection:

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  #26  
Old 02-21-2007, 02:52 AM
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Ah genius.. I used a short pipe that's used for the jack and did something like that... bolt got STRIPPED! I went to the junkyard and saw a pearlie.. tried the tranny bolt since it was on donut wheels which is pretty high... THAT DIDNT COME OUT EITHER! I have some HORRIBLE luck with tranny pan bolts... so I gave up and took my car to the local shop to change fluid... HE COULDNT GET IT OUT EITHER, but he did Chris' idea, worked very well.. he got a shower.. glad I paid the money to avoid a spray of "blood" in my face.

Thanks alot guys, now I know how to make a makeshift breaker bar in the future
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  #27  
Old 02-21-2007, 04:04 PM
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The most valuable thing you can get for your car is a complete metric socet set. 6 point socets are much better than the 12 point ones, makes the nut impossible to strip. Might wanna look into getting a new crush flange for the tranny drain plug (Its the thing that looks like a washer)
Midaswell get one for the oil and diff plugs too, as they are supposed to be replaced with every fluid change
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  #28  
Old 02-21-2007, 08:25 PM
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Glad you are back in business and other than a shower of tranny fluid, you did so without serious injury.
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Amateur Radio - General Class - K7SVX
#1 92 Teal LSl 246k (Dedicated SVX Race Car, now with 4.44 speed)
#2 92 Teal LSl 125k (Retired, car rescued from a field of weeds)
2007 Impreza 2.5i Special Edition, Obsidian Black Pearl (Daily driver)
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab, Cummins turbo diesel 4x4 (race car & RV hauler)
1985 Honda VF500 Interceptor (fair weather fun commuter)

Going on 11 years of NHRA bracket racing
NHRA Div 6 Car/Driver # T654 (site being rebuilt, new name is www.teamsvxracing.com)
2000 1st Place Club Challenge Series
2002 3rd Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 4th Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 1st Place NW Regional Import Shootout (July 5th)
2004 1st Place Club Challenge #1 (Firebird Raceway)
2004 1st Place NHRA "King of the Track" race
2004 NHRA Gold Cup 2nd place season win
2004 Import/Sport Compact 3rd place season win
2004 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Race of Champions finalist competitor (Mission, BC)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #3
2007 1st Place Track Champion Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #5
2008 Club season 1st place win, Club Champion
2008 2nd Place Season Import Final.
2008 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Import Finals (Woodburn, Or)
2009 2nd Place Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2010 1st Place Club race #2 - 1st place Sport Compact race #1 & #2
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