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  #1  
Old 04-04-2003, 12:41 AM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fresno, CA
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Exclamation REAR BEARING Marathon

I won't tell you how many hours it took me to do the rear bearings on my '95 SVX (It's a little embarrassing)! But, I got done and it seems to work fine (much less noise, but must wait time for the acid-test on proper technique).

OK, Beav was right! I probably shuda let the mechanic do this one. It was pretty tough for me. I especially took a long time to figure out the HubTamer. (Partly because what parts they suggested in their manual for the SVX didn't fit at all [maybe their info was for the front], so had to figure out which approach/position/parts to use for pressing out AND in the double sided bearings.)

BTW: I checked carefully the torque specs I got off this site AND the shop manual (at different times). I checked carefully (I thought) the spec for the trailing arm bolt (where it attaches to the knuckle) in the SM, so used 80 ft- lbs. After I finished assembling everything, I noticed in the info I got here on a rear bearing thread that they implied the rear bolt (short) on the trailing arm should be 101 to 130!

IS 80 FT-LBS RIGHT? IS IT OK? SHOULD I GO BACK AND TORQUE TO 101? [The reason I question the 80 figure is that when I tried to remove that bolt on each side, it seemed to take about 200+ ft-lbs to loosen (and it didn't pop loose either > it came loose gradually!) >> I used a 1/2 " breaker bar on one end, and had to stand on the closed-end wrench on the other side to gradually get it off!]

Pleas let me know, GUYS! THANKS!
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1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme!

Last edited by James Scott; 04-04-2003 at 12:45 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2003, 04:11 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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Here ya go: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/7743.gif

Yeah, the hub tamer has instructiuons for front assemblies but nothing on the rears. Once you look at how they accomplsh the job on a front it's not too difficult to adapt the instructions to the rear. Generally the most difficult part can be removing the ABS sensor. Now can you see what I meant by a floor press not being the easiest way to do the job?

BTW - when you see two torque values displayed it isn't a 'range'. The higher number is for new (and therefore un-stretched) fasteners, the lower figure is for used fasteners.
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  #3  
Old 04-06-2003, 03:46 PM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fresno, CA
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Question TORQUE trailing arm

Beav,

Yes, I learned from you recently that the lower figure is for used nut/bolt!

However, is 80 ft-lbs OK, like the shop manual says (80-101) or is it 101(-130) like I gleaned from a couple threads here? I'm talking about the rear trailing arm bolt (trailing arm to knuckle).

PLEASE LET ME KNOW, THANKS!

P.S. Just viewed your PHOTO site, THANKS! I guess I used the right spec (80)! But, why did I have to use over 200 ft-lbs (est.) to gradually get that nut loose (on both sides)? THANKS AGAIN!

BTW: My HubTamer kit came with two -306 plates, but no -309 plate. Do you think I should contact the seller (eBay) to try to swap my -306 for a -309 (not sure if they have more parts OR kits?) [IF I STILL HAVE SELLER OR SHIPPER INFO?]
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Jim
1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme!

Last edited by James Scott; 04-06-2003 at 03:57 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2003, 06:41 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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Welcome to the wonderful world of corrosion. Add to vibration and heat to that and you have your answer.

I'd make sure I got them exchanged. In fact mine came with a duplicate/shortage also. You never know when you might need that exact one to level a table leg or something...
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