Anyone planning to go turbo/build a motor this summer?

[STeeL25T]

I've mentioned before that I plan on building up a motor for single turbo install on my Laguna. The motor is still in the process of being torn down, I've tried to keep myself from investing any money in it until I pay off all my other bills, though I have bought some cool things when they came up =)

I guess it still a bit early for me to be asking about it but I just paid off my fiances ring yesterday and I estimate my daily driver will be payed off by the end of May, so not long after that I'm going to start buying all my parts for the build.

I was just wondering if anyone else was planning to build up their motor around the same time frame so that maybe we could split up the costs on some things and double up our order on others so that we can each get our parts a little bit cheaper and not have two extra rods and mains laying around we don't know what to do with when all is said and done. Especially if your going turbo, I'm sure its much easier for us to both get our low comp pistons at the same time if not a bit cheaper.

[Johnybeas]

I wish I could, I'd love to build and turbo this summer, I'm just doing hyrda and some other minor mods and such. Good luck! post pictures! What turbo are you looking to go with??? Are you going to do a standalone or just one of the ECUtune chips???

[DarknessofDeath]

i wish i can get an engine build....but with the economy and getting laid off in a couple of months..i might have to sell the car ~

[longassname]

It's better if you don't order your rods like that. When they put together a set of 6 they are a weight matched set--both overall weight and big end/little end weight. If you are talking about eagle rods look at the label on the box with the upc. You'll see there are also 3 letters hand written on the label. Those are their weight matching codes.

If you are building your own engine and it doesn't have any bad bearings to start with it would be a lot easier if you just re-use the rods it has now in the same locations. If your crank doesn't show any run out then you can just polish it to the oil clearances you want and avoid a lot of machine work. That money would be far better spent on coated, high silicon aluminum bearings.

[STeeL25T]

I'm going with ACL bearing for sure (which again, I have to order two boxes of leaving me with extra parts), but are you saying you think the rods will be for for 350-400+ hp?

Unless something cheaper comes along ultimately I'm looking to go Hydra. I don't know what turbo yet, I'll figure that out once my motor is back together.

[longassname]

acl ej22 bearings are tri-metal not high silicon aluminum

[STeeL25T]

I've heard some good things about them, whats the bad story on tri metal?

[longassname]

Tri-metal bearings were pretty much industry standard for a long time. They are made through a plating process where a very thin surface of babbit material (lead alloy) is plated onto copper which is on a steel backing. The main "bad" thing about them is that the layer of babbit material is extremely thin so any contamination can quickly tear through it. The other bad thing is that if something goes wrong and things get hot they have a lower melting point of about 400F.

The high silicon aluminum bearings have been replacing the tri-metal bearings. That's part of why you see 200,000 and 300,000 mile warranties now as the oem's have switched to them. They have a very thick high silicon aluminum surface which doesn't imbed contamination and can't be torn through, they pretty much don't wear, and they have a 1100F melting point so if something goes wrong and you have an oil film breakdown they aren't nearly as quick to get toasted.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by STeeL25T

I've heard some good things about them, whats the bad story on tri metal?

The Tri-metal slippers were developed for diesel engines. The copper conducts the heat away form the surface. The lead surface allows the Minuit grit particles to imbed away from the surface to prevent scoring wear of the crank pin.

Aluminium slippers have a higher strength at higher temperatures, and can stand extreme conditions better. They don't have the ability to imbed grit below the surface so the crank pin will have a higher wear rate.

Harvey.

[Trevor]

Improvements in production machinery has enabled less tolerance to be required in respect of bearing clearances. Previously a softer material was necessary in order to provide for a “running in” and seating of the bearing, when first put into service. This aspect could well be kept in mind when rebuilding an engine.

If the imbedding of particles, such that they are actually below the surface and beyond being abrasive, was a in fact a theory, this has nor been proven in practice. The change to less soft material, having resulted in less wear in all respects.

[longassname]

I don't actually have my coated high silicon aluminum bearings on the website now and am not planning on putting them back up there but not to dissapoint Harvey I would like to try to sell you something so if you want to call me when you have your engine taken apart I may have some bearings for you (I do have several sets in stock just not sure what sizes). I certainly have everything else you could ever want to build a rediculous eg33.

[STeeL25T]

I'll give you a call in before the end of June. As of yesterday I owe 2000 more on my daily driver, and I get paid tomorrow and a large sum of money back from education reimbursement before Mays over, and I am SOOO ready to be keeping 100% of my paychecks again.

[STeeL25T]

I technically made my goal lol, as of today I finally have more money in my account than I do in debt... Just not much more I'll wait til next check to be totally debt free, then I will slowly start picking up parts.

...Actually, I've already started looking. I'm waiting on some more pics from a guy on NASIOC and if he sends them and all looks good I'll be picking up an 02 WRX 5 speed trans. Quesiton so far:

- I was looking up rods from Eagle the other day and it looks like they only sell one Subaru rod, listed as for the EJ20/22 I think on the catalog but the same part number is on ones for STi rods on some online stores. Are they all the same?

[longassname]

The 2.2 rods from eagle are the same rod I was using for the EG33's. They put together special sets for me though. If you look at the box you will see there are 3 letters hand written on the label. That's their ballancing code. They put together sets that are not just equal weight rods but same big end/small end ballance. You want to order them in sets of 6 so you get that done not split 3 sets of 4 yourself.

[longassname]

also, there are sets out there that don't have the arp 2000 fastners if you order from somewhere other than eagle.