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#16
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Re: Re: Re: On the dyno....but no AWD!!
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As you pointed out, if you never did anything that caused a major speed differential, you'd never see an error code. So let's assume that's the case with Bill's car. If he just ran the car on the dyno a couple times and them went back to driving it on the road like he normally does, would the computer detect a fault enough times to record it? As I understand it, a fault has to be detected a few times before the TCU will say, 'okay, I have something to tell you.' I've seen this myself when I tried disconnecting the infamous resistor. The power light didn't blink on startup for the first two or three starts after I disconnected it.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#17
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As for installing the FWD fuse to help protect things, I'm not sure this is of any consequence, but it couldn't hurt anything either. Regarding how many times a fault must be detected to register a code, I don't know how the TCU figures this one out. I do however know that it's very sensitive to any differential in speed in speed sensor two, at it detected a problem in my transmission even when drove it like a little old lady. Also, are you referring to current codes or latent codes? Again, I'm not sure how the TCU decides these things, but you might just go find a parking lot and light up the front wheels a few times and immediately check for a current code. ...?... The mismatched tire problem would certainly do it, which qualifies as abuse, but your point is taken. This would most definitely register a code for wheel speed sensor two. In SVXRide's case, did the AWD work before, or are you uncertain about it's previous condition? |
#18
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I haven't noticed any fluid leaking from the rear of the trans (now the front seal...that's another question) or any metallic grinding noises. Definitely looks like I'm going to play Detective this weekend! -Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#19
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Hope I didn't misinterpret what you said...
-Chike Quote:
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"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#20
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Good luck being Inspector Gadget this weekend Bill!
-Chike Quote:
__________________
"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#21
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I'm fairly certain the AWD worked before, as I had my Maryland emissions inspection a little over a month ago and they ran it on a 4 wheel dyno and all four wheels turned.
Curiousier and curiousier (where is that Cheshire cat....) -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#22
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#23
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Interesting.
I had my dealer hook it up to their scanner and it's my Solenoid C taht's the issue. Thing is, it isn't completely malfunctioning so sometimes my awd is engaged and at other times it isn't. As a result, it can cause a 'clunking' when I'm driving along a perfectly straight road at a steady speed, when the Solenoid decides to work again! -Chike Quote:
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"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#24
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Well,
I did the "turn the ignition switch on and listen for buzzing sounds" and the TCU diagonostics that Lee put in his 4HEAT documents and came up empty... I didn't hear any buzzing except when I first turned the key to "on" -- got under the car and didn't hear any continuous buzzing noise from the transmission area -- is solenoid C supposed to continue to cycle as long as the key in "on"?? I ran through the TCU procedure and the Power light didn't blink one bit. Question - the car isn't supposed to be running while you do the "manual button on, shift gears, manual button off, shift gears...." process. I'm a little confused, as Lee's document refers to pushing the gas pedal down at the end to disengage the fast idle... I haven't gotten to the diagnostics section of my SVX shop manual yet (volume 2 - which covers the trans), thus the question. Does anyone know what the size of the pressure port in the transfer case is? I'd like to have a set up ready before I get under the car and remove the plug from the access port. -Bill EDIT -- just went back and checked UberROO's comments in an earlier thread -- does the trans have to be in Drive with the key on to get the buzzing noise? I know I had the trans in Park when I did this check.
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker Last edited by SVXRide; 07-06-2004 at 10:07 AM. |
#25
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TCU check out procedure/codes
FYI,
This is the procedure I followed - note that it appers to indicate that you do all of it without the engine running. To perform the TCU self diag test for EXISTING problems 1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph. 2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF. 3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on. 4) Turn ignition switch OFF. 5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON. 6) Turn ignition switch ON. 7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF. 8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON. 9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF. 10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off). 11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal. To perform the TCU self diag test for PREVIOUS problems 1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph. 2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF. 3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on. 4) Turn ignition switch OFF. 5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON. 6) Turn ignition switch ON. 7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF. 8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON. 9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF. 10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off). 11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal. Trouble codes: 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2 My POWER light didn't blink at all.... -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#26
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The engine should be OFF when pulling the codes.
For the solenoid noise check, it doesn't matter what gear you're in, as long as you're in a gear [1,2,3,D,R]. Park, or neutral will not work. Make sure the ignition is ON so that the dash warning lights are illuminated. Remember, the FWD fuse must not be installed to hear the noise. A great way to do this test is to insert and remove the fuse a few times while listening for the noise. You should be able to hear it emanate up through the engine compartment. When you insert the fuse, the noise should fade away, but when you remove it, the noise will immediately return. Sounds to me that if you don't hear anything, your solenoid isn't working. It's probably jammed. Unless you're not pulling the codes correctly, it seems probable that you have a mechanical problem with the valve body. Somebody mentioned that they had a problem that seemed to be a valve getting jammed shut by hydraulic pressure. When the engines starts, the solenoid is activated and the valve it controls is exposed to hydraulic pressure. If it's not activated when the hydraulic pressure is generated for the first time, it may not jam. (I realize this is not consistent with the noise test.) Perhaps if you cut the wire that controls the solenoid, it may suddenly begin functioning if it un-jams itself. This is kind of a long shot, but it's a place to begin. You can also tap into the wiring harness and check for continuity of the solenoid, but if you have no codes, it's probably good. Doesn't hurt to check though. The noise test works very well on my car. Can anyone else confirm that it works for them as well? It takes all of ten seconds to do. 1) Put car in neutral, and turn the key on. No noise. 2) Put the car in drive or reverse. Hear noise. 3) Pat self on back. Last edited by UberRoo; 07-06-2004 at 11:55 PM. |
#27
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A little bit of throttle helps to hear the buzzing sounds on my car.
Since two solenoids are supposed to buzz (A and C) the test is not definitive... |
#28
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Quote:
In either case, if there is noise without the FWD fuse, and it goes away when you plug it in, that's pretty conclusive. Last edited by UberRoo; 07-07-2004 at 12:07 AM. |
#29
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UberRoo,
I'm going to try the "noise" test tonight - with the car in gear! I'll also try the with and without fuse check. Thanks! -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#30
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Silence..
Well, I went out and did the "key "on" and transmission in gear" noise test and was greeted by a stoney silence. I put a 10A fuse in the FWD socket and the FWD icon came on on the dash. I also ran through the diagnostic for the TCU and the POWER light just sat there - lit up and not flashing one bit.
I'm going to see if I can't get the car up on a lift to pull the speed sensor to check for metal shavings and pull the pressure port plug to see if I can't figure out what type of threads it has so I can rig up a fitting to hook a pressure gage to. Does anyone know what size the plug is? -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
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