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#16
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From my personal experience, during warmup the TC will not lock until 140°F-150°F. If it's cool outside (10°F or so) the tranny will cool back down to under 100°F. As soon as it dips below that the TC unlocks and it starts heating up again and the cycle repeats.
(and as I've said before I don't have an extra tranny cooler)
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#17
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Re: Re: Controlled cooling
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Hmmmmmmmm...interesting! Can you describe this "diverter valve"? is it something you switch manually? Sounds like a good idea after hearing the reports of TC unlocking in cooler weather. I have a cooler to install but not really looking forward to the TC "cycling" on and off.
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#18
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Re: Re: Re: Controlled cooling
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#19
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I guess that's a possibility...but not knowing where the diverter valve IS, don't know if the heat it returns to the cooled ATF would ever be significant.
Why do BOTH inlet and outlet lines need to go thru it? Anyway, I don't seem to be any closer to having this issue settled in my head. Going on personal experience, I've driven my SVX mostly in warmer temps with no aux cooler at all. I have not noticed any bad things happening in hot driving - of course if I had a tranny temp guage I might be more concerned! Obviously the tranny needs some additional cooling capacity but not TOO much more, or it starts affecting the operation at the other extreme (too cool). So the answer to me seems to be installing a conservative cooler with some way to thermostatically control it so that overcooling doesn't occur. Install in series with the stock cooler? Parallel? Bypass it?
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#20
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Originally posted by svxxx26
I guess that's a possibility...but not knowing where the diverter valve IS, don't know if the heat it returns to the cooled ATF would ever be significant. *** Yeah, I agree, it may insignificantly heat the cooled ATF. The only way to know is to try it. The next time I feel like getting covered in ATF, I'll climb under the car and install it, and then we'll have an answer. :-) *** Why do BOTH inlet and outlet lines need to go thru it? *** Both lines need to pass through the thermostat so that when the ATF is cold, the thermostat can send the ATF straight back to the tranny. It can't just stop the flow. NG. :-) *** Anyway, I don't seem to be any closer to having this issue settled in my head. Going on personal experience, I've driven my SVX mostly in warmer temps with no aux cooler at all. I have not noticed any bad things happening in hot driving - of course if I had a tranny temp guage I might be more concerned! *** I've got one of the B&M 18,000 GVW ATF coolers sandwiched between the A/C condensor and the radiator and a thermostat that reads the ATF temp going into the tranny. Today, in 90F temps with the A/C running, the ATF inlet temperature sits at about 165F in traffic. If I get onto the freeway where the TC can lock, it cools to about 150F. Just about right IMHO, but I have seen it climb to 180F a few times when I start driving aggressively in stop-and-go traffic. *** Obviously the tranny needs some additional cooling capacity but not TOO much more, or it starts affecting the operation at the other extreme (too cool). So the answer to me seems to be installing a conservative cooler with some way to thermostatically control it so that overcooling doesn't occur. Install in series with the stock cooler? Parallel? Bypass it? *** In series with stock is my recommendation. The stock cooler helps to warm the ATF quickly, but maybe with an ATF thermostat, the stock cooler could be by-passed entirely. *** [/B][/QUOTE]
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#21
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Well, I've had my cooler sitting on the shelf in the garage for about 4 years now...guess I'll bite the bullet and put the thing on.
I like the idea of having a thermostat too. Thanks for the all the info
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#22
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small cooler IN
I opted for the locally available (Hadyn) small plate cooler between the AC condensor/radiator, about $50. I'm hard up financially now or I would have installed (driver side/in front of wheel) the B&M HiTek. It makes the best sense, because of the thermostatic control - only comes on when you need it + has its own air source! BUT, doesn't get too cold here + (like I said) $50 is alot less than $190. Thanks for your inputs!
P.S. I installed after loosening top of radiator (only). Cut included hose - one about 4 inches shorter than the other piece. Attached these to cooler. Tipped radiator toward engine. Slid cooler in between with hoses facing up and bending toward driver side. Positioned hoses down side of radiator to area just in front of campaign filter (later attached one to exit [center]nipple of AT oil filter, one attached [using aluminum tubing] to the hose removed from center filter nipple). I placed nylon "straps" thru AC condensor, thru oil cooler and allowed point of nylon to protrude about 1/8 inch out other side of AT oil cooler. I used a long needle nose plier to hold the foam pads just in position over the projecting nylon point. After all four were in position, I tipped the radiator forward against the pads. Pushed all the way thru radiator, pushed on retainers and clipped excess. Seemed to work easily and well. Hope this helps somebody!
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Jim 1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13) 2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011) Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme! Last edited by James Scott; 06-29-2003 at 06:59 PM. |
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