Lan's 9.3 compression EG33

[longassname]

Hey guys, I'm selling the engine out of the pearly I gave to my mom for the last 5 years. It's listed on Ebay but if someone here wants to buy it I'm happy to cancel the auction.

The ebay auction:http://www.ebay.com/itm/231495015657

The pictures I found of the original build are in the the folder called 9.3 CR EG33 build in the following photo album: http://www.subiechips.com/photoAlbum.htm

Pictures of it after I pulled it from the car a couple days ago:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYwWDE2MD...U9Mps/$_57.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYwWDE2MD...U9Mpu/$_57.JPG

[longassname]

The ebay auction ends in 2 days and it looks like it's going to get sniped in the last few. Since I'm breaking open a complete Subaru gasket and seal set to swap out the cams I decided it only makes sense to do a complete reseal on the engine so whoever buys it knows they will be good for a long time. That's what I always do when I'm installing an engine in one of my cars I figure anyone else would appreciate the same.

I went ahead and ordered a new head bolt set for the job. I'm going to go get the wood and get started on the crate now.

[Blacky]

In the words of Red Green... "We're all in this together. I'm rootin' for ya"!

[longassname]

I tore the 9.3 compression engine back down to the short block yesterday to get it ready to reseal and sell freshened up.

There was no metal in the pan or contamination in the oil indicating wear. Everything looked good. I cleaned the mating surfaces all old sealant, prepped them with prep-solv and re-installed the pan with ultra-grey.
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/20150320_181522.jpg

The pistons and cylinders look great too. I cleaned off what little carbon build up was on the tops with some wd40 and wiped down the cylinder liners. I also chased the threads of all the head bolt holes. It's always a good idea to chase the threads so they are perfectly clean. That way your torque measurements when torquing the cylinder heads down accurately reflect clamping pressure and instead of resistance to being turned.
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/20150320_185631.jpg

I apologize in advance for the pictures not being of the quality I used to post. They were taken with my cell phone--not a nikon dslr. Does anyone know how to specify the size of an image if I use IMG tags instead of URL tags?

[longassname]

I got the heads for this engine back from the machine shop today. I got a valve job and the deck done while they were off.


I cleaned the RH deck with prep-solve.


Installed the RH head gasket


Took a picture of the RH cylinder head before cleaning the mating surface with prep-solve


Put bolt grease on the threads and heads of the new head bolts


When torquing the head bolts I like to mark them after I torque them to 51 ft-lbs/before I start the loosening them and re-tightening them by angle procedure. This makes it easy to keep track of where they are and make sure everything is going right.


After I've loosened them and re-torqued them to 20 ft-lbs you can see the long bolts are about 120 degrees shy of where they were at before and the short bolts are about 90 degrees shy of where they were at when torqued to 51 ft-lbs.


At this point I mark the block 180 degrees off from the markings on the bolts. This gives me a don't go past reference point for each bolt.


At the end of the torquing procedure you can see I end up with all the bolts about the same angle past where they were when first torqued to 51 ft lbs.


repeat for the LH cylinder head.
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/...d/DSC_0555.JPG
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/...d/DSC_0566.JPG
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/...d/DSC_0571.JPG
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/...d/DSC_0573.JPG
http://www.subiechips.com/posts/9.3/...d/DSC_0581.JPG

and now the heads are on.

[longassname]

I cleaned the lash adjusters for this engine today. I'll give you a little how to here. This is good knowledge for the community. This should probably be done anytime an eg33 is taken apart. This is the fix for noisy lash adjusters. The oil inside your lash adjusters is as old as your car is. You absolutely must do it anytime you've made modifications to the valves or camshafts that might reduce the clearance between the two.

The hydraulic lash adjusters are composed of 4 parts. The following link is to a picture of a lash adjuster I have taken apart and cleaned. I'm going to call the part that sits on the end of the valve stem "the pedestal." That's the part you see sticking out of the bottom of the lash adjuster if you are looking at an assembled lash adjuster. It's the right most part in my picture. To it's left you see a spring which fits inside the pedestal. To the left of the spring you see the check valve which also slides inside the pedestal..except the spring wants to push it most of the way out when the lash adjuster is dissassembled. Left most is the main body of the lash adjuster which I've heard others call "a bucket" so I will do the same. There is a small hole in the side of the bucket which lets oil into the interior of the bucket. The check valve lets oil from the interior of the bucket through into the space inside the pedestal where the spring is. It's a one way gate--if there is open space inside oil will go in but it can't come back out. So the way this works is the spring gently pushes the pedestal down to take up any lash between the camshaft and the valve stem then oil fills the space making it uncompress-able.

The internal parts just push into the bottom of the lash adjuster. They also just pull out. There's a little lip on the bottom of the pedestal which you can grab with a regular pair of pliers. Holding the bucket in one hand and grabbing the lip on the pedestal with a pair of pliers with the other hand you can pull the internals straight out of the lash adjuster with ease. Shake the oil out of the bucket, wash everything out with a light oil, put the spring in the pedestal, put the check valve in the pedestal, push everything back into the bucket.




Here are all 24 lash adjusters for this engine after I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled each one.

[longassname]

Picking up where I left off...I had cleaned all the lash adjusters and tried to illustrate how to do this to fix your clickity clackety eg33's. The next step is to bleed/prime your lash adjusters.

Pour yourself a container of penzoil platinum 10w30 and submerge one of your lash adjusters in it with the oil hole on the side pointing straight upwards. Squeeze the pedestal. A string of air bubbles will come out when you squeeze it. When you release it clean oil is sucked in to replace the air you just squeezed out. It takes about 65 pumps for each lash adjuster to complete the process.


Your thumb may get tired somewhere along the way but you also get a warm fuzzy feeling as you can feel each lash adjuster operating smoothly. I like to go straight from priming the lash adjuster to dropping it in the cylinder head. When you are finished you are 100% certain all your lash adjusters are smooth and quiet and none of them will be holding any valves open costing your compression.

[longassname]

So after you've cleaned and primed your lash adjusters they are smooth and soft. This makes it very easy to install the camshafts. On the left had cylinder head the camshafts install with the notches facing downwards. With clean lash adjusters the camshafts drop right.


When you took the camshafts out you should have put a bolt in the intake camshaft gears to hold the scissor gear in its preloaded position. After you install the exhaust camshaft with the notch in the front straight down (on the lh side) you install the intake camshaft with its notch in the front also straight down (on the lh side) and the tooth with the single dot in between the two dots on the exhaust camshaft gear. After you install the #'d cam caps (unless you are working on a later model non lsi engine where subaru decided you didn't deserve #'d cam caps) it's time to remove the bolt holding the scissors gear back before installing the front cam cap




You always have to use new gaskets on the valve covers. Even if your gaskets are almost new and seem perfect..you still have to use new gaskets. That includes the bolt gaskets. Because the bolts bottom out against their shanks they install to the exact same height each time--no amount of torque will make them pull tight on a gasket that isn't brand new. The big problem with this is that someone at Subaru made a mistake back in 1990 that has never been corrected. Their computer says the SVX take 16 bolt washers. It takes 20. So you'll invest close to $500 in a gasket set to make sure you won't get caught without a gasket you need...then you get caught without gaskets you need. If you are ordering your gaskets individually order 20 bolt gaskets. If you are using an overhaul set order yourself an another 4 bolt gaskets.

[longassname]

On the right hand side the notches on the front of the camshafts go straight up vs straight down on the lh side.

[longassname]

Then it's time to put new o-rings on the dipstick and the top of the block for the water crossover pipe and install them. Then a new timing belt tensioner and close to new idlers. Then the close to new engine harness. And that brings us up to date. I'm waiting on new lower intake manifold gaskets, a new right hand rear timing cover, and a new set of spark plugs before I can button this engine the rest of the way up.

[longassname]

The new plugs and filter came in so I was able to install the spark plugs and almost new coil packs. I've always used the NGK double platinum plugs or laser iridium plugs before--the two NGK plug options that have the platinum chip laser welded onto the ground strap. Denso double platinum plugs are pretty commonly available now and I decided to go with them this time. They may not have them in stock locally but they should be able to get them from their warehouse. They are a made in Japan plug and look very good to me. I expect them to be every bit as good as the NGKs. The correct plug is PK20TT or part #4504.

[longassname]

I got the last of the parts today and finished up the timing components. All that's left is installing the intake manifold and putting it in the crate.

[longassname]

I got a chance to finish this engine today.

[Blacky]

Now that's a beautiful sight!

[longassname]

I just posted a new ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231523716275...witem=&vxp=mtr