Replacing Rusted Exhaust Flange And Pipe?

Weebitob · #1 05-19-2011, 09:36 PM

It has been noticeable within the first year of driving but only lately has it got loud enough to the point of going out of my way to do something about it. I hindsight I probably should have acted earlier.

The pictures are from a place that is offering approximately $100 to cut off and weld a some other pipe with flange. The one in charge said they couldn't find the OEM part through CarQuest.

Anyway, here are some pics that may give an idea of where and what it is rather then my poor attempt at technically explaining.

If you have any issues with the quality I can send you minutely better ones (its from a cellphone) and without the red circle.

httrdd · #2 05-20-2011, 07:22 AM

Womp womp womp..... same thing on the same pipe is happening to me. My plan is to cut that cat out completely and run a y pipe.

Weebitob · #3 05-20-2011, 09:56 AM

As sweet and simple that sounds I don't know if the MVS would appreciate that so much come inspection day, they look under your car too or I guess I can pay extra to have my local mechanic ok it.

I was just wondering if there was a way to get ahold of an OEM section and if it can be more easily replaced? The part itself would probably be more expensive then cutting and welding on different ends so close to the cat, what are the long term risks?

XT6Wagon · #4 05-20-2011, 10:17 AM

The aftermarket makes 2-1 cats, and an exhaust shop should have some kind of flanges or slip fit sections it can use to replace that area.

A cheap shop should be able to do it for a couple hundred with parts. Just don't try a big chain exhaust shop as they will rip you off and the quality can be far lower as it will be some monkey who just picked up the welder for the first time last week and only does thier pre-bent slipfit systems 99% of the time. Actual exhaust repair is often beyond the big chain exhaust shops.

Weebitob · #5 05-20-2011, 10:38 AM

In light of your suggestion is their's sound? I'm not doubting their skill as it seems plenty of people go there but from what I gather they want to chop and weld on new but different from OEM flanges on both ends, the stock pipe is aluminum correct? I think they also want to do it for the other side too. Going with the OEM route is just incredibly expensive, but will the aforementioned way fix it for the long term bring back the noise to close to stock level?

XT6Wagon · #6 05-20-2011, 11:23 AM

Stock pipe is mild steel with a coating. Sound change should be minimal at most if all you are replacing is the flanges or the flanges and cat.

While you could likely do just the flanges, I'd do the cat at the same time as old cats can be bad news for your performance, and you won't risk having to redo that work in a few months of the cat canister or piping out of it is weak.

92snowmachine · #7 05-20-2011, 11:51 AM

you might want to ask what the price increase would be to use stainless steel instead of cheap pipe. it's a small section so it's likely to not be that much difference but will last a lot longer without the rust of the old piece.

Weebitob · #8 05-21-2011, 01:02 PM

Thank you for all your replies offering me a wide range of choices. I have been thinking about it for a bit and have an inkling that the cats or at least the one that needs to be replaced could be the source of an ongoing re-occurring Check Engine light issue or a problematic sensor too.

Are there any solid recommendations out of the catalytic converters they have here for a 1993 model? As I didn't take a close enough picture of the flange itself I would like to know what flange bolt pattern would most closely fit the stock one?

XT6Wagon · #9 05-21-2011, 01:36 PM

The 9400 series sounds fine, but I don't know the stock pipe diamiters.

92snowmachine · #10 05-22-2011, 01:25 PM

most cheap converters are cheap because they use less platinum and cerium in the bed. they will work accordingly.

michael · #11 05-22-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XT6Wagon

The aftermarket makes 2-1 cats, and an exhaust shop should have some kind of flanges or slip fit sections it can use to replace that area.

A cheap shop should be able to do it for a couple hundred with parts. Just don't try a big chain exhaust shop as they will rip you off and the quality can be far lower as it will be some monkey who just picked up the welder for the first time last week and only does thier pre-bent slipfit systems 99% of the time. Actual exhaust repair is often beyond the big chain exhaust shops.

I have to vent here.

The weld cracked on my Outback exhaust this winter. I asked big chain muffler to grind off the surface rust and re-weld. I watched this guy zap at my exhaust for almost an hour creating a huge twisted rats nest the size of a grapefruit. There was only surface rust that needed to be taken off and he didn't even do that, I wanted to slap it out of his hand. How do you not know the basics and do that for a living

XT6Wagon · #12 05-22-2011, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael

I have to vent here.

The weld cracked on my Outback exhaust this winter. I asked big chain muffler to grind off the surface rust and re-weld. I watched this guy zap at my exhaust for almost an hour creating a huge twisted rats nest the size of a grapefruit. There was only surface rust that needed to be taken off and he didn't even do that, I wanted to slap it out of his hand. How do you not know the basics and do that for a living

Its simple, most of the big chains do more brake jobs, headlights, and wipers and very little exhaust work that isn't 100% bolt on. So Minimum wage monkey fires up the welder maybe 2 times in his whole time working for them. He is going to bail for a better job ASAP since tire places don't do the nasty exaust work, or go to a real auto shop for alot more $$$.

That said, they should have them complete a 30 min training course... IE take rusty old scrap exhaust and show why welding rust doesn't work. Why you need to be careful with thin pipe. etc.