WTB: High output alternator

[Cam]

I live in Lynnwood, WA, and am looking to purchase a high-output alternator. Name your price...but don't get too carried away, I am not made of money . From what i can gather they are quite rare, but I've got my fingers crossed

[svxcess]

.

The only thing you need to know. Click HERE You will not find a better product anywhere!!

160A high-output alternator, completely rebuilt from the ground up.





$248.00 without core. Once they send you the alternator, install it and send them back your old alternator for a $60.00 core credit (They even pay for your old alternator to be shipped back to them at their expense)

Final price is $188.00 One year warranty. This is cheaper than a generic 95A rebuild from Subaru

I have one of these on my 96 Polo, along with a custom alternator wiring modification/ upgrade. Electrical system operates flawlessly. They are using upgraded voltage regulators from Germany for exceptional reliability. HERE is a link to my installation.


The only thing not shown is the 150A Mega Fuse inline on the power wire andattached to the fuse box.




You will need to upgrade the power wire and grounds to 4 gauge, along with a fuse in the power wire as close to the battery as possible.


Talk to Christian when you call. She will answer any questions you have.

.

[Cam]

Great! I will order one tomorrow. I have no time now but will make some tomorrow. Thank you

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by svxcess

.

The only thing you need to know. Click HERE You will not find a better product anywhere!!

160A high-output alternator, completely rebuilt from the ground up.





$248.00 without core. Once they send you the alternator, install it and send them back your old alternator for a $60.00 core credit (They even pay for your old alternator to be shipped back to them at their expense)

Final price is $188.00 One year warranty. This is cheaper than a generic 95A rebuild from Subaru

I have one of these on my 96 Polo, along with a custom alternator wiring modification/ upgrade. Electrical system operates flawlessly. They are using upgraded voltage regulators from Germany for exceptional reliability. HERE is a link to my installation.


The only thing not shown is the 150A Mega Fuse inline on the power wire andattached to the fuse box.




You will need to upgrade the power wire and grounds to 4 gauge, along with a fuse in the power wire as close to the battery as possible.


Talk to Christian when you call. She will answer any questions you have.

.

John,
Where did you get the Mega Fuse? Pics on your install of it?
-Bill

[svxcess]

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid.



I was waiting for the HYDRAULIC CABLE CRIMPER I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making these cables with solid copper lugs.

........



I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

Is Slo-Blo important?

Wondering if 125 amp or so without slo-blo might save us in the event of a regulator failure. Just wondering.

Keith

Trevor, if you happen to run across this, this is not a declaration of war. Just trying to find out what others might think.

Cheers?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by kwren

Is Slo-Blo important?

Wondering if 125 amp or so without slo-blo might save us in the event of a regulator failure. Just wondering.

Keith

Trevor, if you happen to run across this, this is not a declaration of war. Just trying to find out what others might think.

Cheers?

Keith,

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

In order to protect the system against an alternator voltage regulator failure, something more sophisticated is required. The usual arrangement is a voltage sensitive solid state switch, arranged to instantly crowbar, (directly short circuit) the alternator to ground, in the event of excessive voltage. This will kill the voltage and the necessary alternator circuit fuse will then open against the introduced fault.

You will find such protective devices available for, and used in, light aircraft. It is all a matter of cost relative to risk. Obviously the stakes are high when it is not possible to get out and walk.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

John,
Thanks. Are you getting the fuse itself at Home Depot or Lowe's?
-Bill

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Keith,

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

Actually, Trevor, there isn't any battery current except the current used to start the engine when the car isn't running. If the alternator is working correctly, the output from the alternator is greater than the battery voltage so instead of the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring" having the voltage supplied by the battery, the battery is actually being charged while the alternator provides all the current that flows through the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring" at the same time.

Please forgive me, Trevor, but there isn't a chance on earth that you don't already know this.

Keith

[svxcess]

.

UPDATE


Maniac Electric Motors is now offering a lifetime warranty on all of their high-output alternators for an additional $98.00.

The original warranty on these units is one year.

More details on their site HERE


.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by kwren

Actually, Trevor, there isn't any battery current except the current used to start the engine when the car isn't running. If the alternator is working correctly, the output from the alternator is greater than the battery voltage so instead of the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring" having the voltage supplied by the battery, the battery is actually being charged while the alternator provides all the current that flows through the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring" at the same time.

Please forgive me, Trevor, but there isn't a chance on earth that you don't already know this.

Keith

I have just discovered this, as is usual, stupid sarcastic post.

The intent is to infer that information I had provided, was/is wrong. In case someone is disillusioned the statement requires correction.

I had correctly advised ---

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

N.B. Obviously, in the event that a short circuit fault to ground occurs, within the alternator or the external connecting circuit, full battery current will flow to ground, regardless of whether the alternator is running or is stationary. A fuse, fitted within the circuit close to the battery, will protect against this potentially dangerous battery current.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by Trevor

I have just discovered this, as is usual, stupid sarcastic post.

The intent is to infer that information I had provided, was/is wrong. In case someone is disillusioned the statement requires correction.

I had correctly advised ---

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

N.B. Obviously, in the event that a short circuit fault to ground occurs, within the alternator or the external connecting circuit, full battery current will flow to ground, regardless of whether the alternator is running or is stationary. A fuse, fitted within the circuit close to the battery, will protect against this potentially dangerous battery current.

Can the 2 of you please stop bickering all over this forum. It's really getting annoying having the 2 of you constantly filling up useful threads with garbage.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by 1986nate

Can the 2 of you please stop bickering all over this forum. It's really getting annoying having the 2 of you constantly filling up useful threads with garbage.

Do not instruct me.

The correction of wrong information does not constitute bickering and is NOT garbage. If you wisely take the time to read before jumping in and posting, you may understand the why and wherefore.

The fact that a certain member constantly tries to sarcastically score of me is not my problem. Under no circumstances will I let wrong information, directly contrary to what I have stated, remain available to members who may search at some later date.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Do not instruct me.

The correction of wrong information does not constitute bickering and is NOT garbage. If you wisely take the time to read before jumping in and posting, you may understand the why and wherefore.

The fact that a certain member constantly tries to sarcastically score of me is not my problem. Under no circumstances will I let wrong information, directly contrary to what I have stated, remain available to members who may search at some later date.

I have taken the time to read the information in this thread as I do in every thread that I look in or post in. I am not saying that the info itself is garbage and this thread is not near as bad as some other threads. I realize that Keith makes many sarcastic points in reaction to your posts as he does to others. Also, a question does not institute an instruction and I believe I was asking politely but I apparently forgot a question mark and maybe that is why you took it as so. Your information on such topics is always useful and I will admit at times it goes above my own comprehension as I cannot visualize things through words but rather need to see things in a light that I can understand. I have no problem with you or anyone else on this forum as it takes everyone to "make the world go 'round".

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Trevor

I have just discovered this, as is usual, stupid sarcastic post.

The intent is to infer that information I had provided, was/is wrong. In case someone is disillusioned the statement requires correction.

I had correctly advised ---

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

N.B. Obviously, in the event that a short circuit fault to ground occurs, within the alternator or the external connecting circuit, full battery current will flow to ground, regardless of whether the alternator is running or is stationary. A fuse, fitted within the circuit close to the battery, will protect against this potentially dangerous battery current.

My alternator wiring modification has given me no problems at all without a fuse. The 4 gauge power wire is securely fastened and protected by its location from any sort of normal mishap.

However, in case of a severe front end collision, there is the possibility that the integrity of that wire may be comprimised. If the power wire became cut or broken, the battery could instantly send between 800-1000A through that wire directly to frame or engine ground, which is bad.

I finally added a 175A Mega-Fuse into the charging wire circuit, close to the battery. If something does short, the fuse will immediately blow, interrupting the battery current and protecting its components. I will start with a 175A fuse and use it for a month. If all goes well, I will drop down to 150A, 125A and maybe as low as 100A.

The connections were power-crimped, soldered and insulated with adhesive shrnk-wrap

In case of an accident, which caused a fire, the insurance company could not deny the claim as every due safety precaution was researched and taken.

I know this addition makes Trevor very happy. I feel more relieved to know that my electrical system is safer than it was yesterday
.