Alternator question

[kwren]

One problem we have with our alternators is that they can be spasmodic... when on the way out, sometimes work right and at other times not. The voltage at idle can vary a bit with different components turned on and various "idle speed"... several variables even when no problem exists. Try to test it in a condition that is not normal for it if possible. If you ever catch it in the "act", there is no longer room for doubt.

Keith

[benebob]

Originally Posted by kwren

One problem we have with our alternators is that they can be spasmodic... when on the way out, sometimes work right and at other times not. The voltage at idle can vary a bit with different components turned on and various "idle speed"... several variables even when no problem exists. Try to test it in a condition that is not normal for it if possible. If you ever catch it in the "act", there is no longer room for doubt.

Keith

Sorry Keith but the voltage should not vary at all provided you are not running more than what the alt. puts out at idle. I would suspect on the SVX that would mean all your accesories running at an idle. The only voltage drop should be when you turn something on (then your regulator should return it back to 13.2. At 12.75 you'll end up walking sooner rather than later. It is a very good time to clean up all your grounds and grease 'em. Also when you take it in for a rebuild ask if they have or can order a new connector for you. The plastic becomes quite nasty with age (not to mention tarnished wires). It is a very good idea to replace the $3 lead and possibly even more wire back beyond where it sits atop the engine.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by benebob

Sorry Keith but the voltage should not vary at all provided you are not running more than what the alt. puts out at idle.

KWren wrote:
"The voltage at idle can vary a bit with different components turned on and various "idle speed"... several variables even when no problem exists."

Same story... Different arrangement of words (I think)

Not "running more what than the alt. puts out at idle?
Keith

[benebob]

Originally Posted by kwren

KWren wrote:
"The voltage at idle can vary a bit with different components turned on and various "idle speed"... several variables even when no problem exists."

Same story... Different arrangement of words (I think)

Not "running more what than the alt. puts out at idle?
Keith

Watts is you're what!

The SVX has a high output at idle so you can run all your stock accessories on high and still not decharge your battery. To do that it needs to be putting out 13.2 volts. My NH650 motorcycle doesn't even meet the headlight and coilpack needs until it hits 2800rpm. Point is if an SVX alternator is below 13.2 at a normal idle speed (aside from the surge resulting in adding a new load which is gone in a second anyways) the alt isn't doing its job anymore. Assuming his battery is good and his voltmeter is good then 12.75 at an idle is below the minimum specs.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by benebob

Sorry Keith but the voltage should not vary at all provided you are not running more than what the alt. puts out at idle. I said... The voltage at idle can vary a bit with different components turned on. I would suspect on the SVX that would mean all your accesories running at an idle. KWren... Is this a riddle? It is not about Suspecting. The reality is that when an alternator slows down the possible level of voltage generated will decrease. It is just the way it works. The only voltage drop should be when you turn something on (then your regulator should return it back to 13.2. Should? Doesn't work by should. An alternator at normal idle speed will actually let the battery discharge instead of charging with all the lights, accessory, etc turned on.

That is with a new properly functioning alternator at proper idle speed. (actually if the system is functioning properly, the idle speed will increase when you start turning everything on but will let the output decrease enough to begin to sap the juice from the battery).

And no need to be sorry!

Keith

[benebob]

Originally Posted by kwren

That is with a new properly functioning alternator at proper idle speed. (actually if the system is functioning properly, the idle speed will increase when you start turning everything on but will let the output decrease enough to begin to sap the juice from the battery).

And no need to be sorry!

Keith

You're right Keith. There isn't an issue when an alternator is at 12.75.. My idle doesn't change a bit even with the ac on full blast and using the lights and wipers on. There is under no circumstance that you should be getting 12.75 volts out of an SVX alternator at a stock idle with a stock pulley with anything the car came with on. The surge you talk about is a temporary thing as the regulator is doing its job. It should and will in a properly functioning system return back to a normal idle once the surge is compensated for via the regulator.

As for my shoulds and woulds that is simply providing what should occur in any charging system as many people who read this have other cars and apply knowledge they learn based on forums.

You're right there is no need to be sorry, I simply don't want to see misinformation provided when possible. So show me where in an SVX charging system you should be getting 12.75 volts. I told you where you can find it in other types of charging systems but not on an SVX system. Happy New Year BTW!

[kwren]

Originally Posted by benebob

There is under no circumstance that you should be getting 12.75 volts out of an SVX alternator at a stock idle with a stock pulley with anything the car came with on.

With everything turned on at idle speed with a system that is at normal operating temperature and idle sped set correctly, you don't actually get as much as 12.75 volts. I could go into the logic of the rpm of the alternator, but lets put logic aside. The best thing for you would be to buy a good digital DC Volt meter and test it with nothing turned on. Keep adding things till you get everything you can find turned on. With everything possible at Idle you won't even get 12.75 volts, and neither will anyone else on this form. This is of course with normal operating temperature and correct idle speed.

Don't make an assumption that I have a clue what I am talking about, Perform the test yourself and lets end this conversation. If PA wasn't so far away I would come and show you

The surge you talk about is a temporary thing as the regulator is doing its job. It should and will in a properly functioning system return back to a normal idle once the surge is compensated for via the regulator. Not talking about any surge... I am talking about steady different voltage with different loads.

As for my shoulds and woulds that is simply providing what should occur in any charging system as many people who read this have other cars and apply knowledge they learn based on forums.

You're right there is no need to be sorry, I simply don't want to see misinformation provided when possible.

Then don't send everyone on the form out to buy themselves a new alternator when theirs may be working normal!

Happy new years back

Keith

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by kwren

[/COLOR]

Then don't send everyone on the form out to buy themselves a new alternator when theirs may be working normal!

Happy new years back

Keith

Maybe he gets commision

[kwren]

Originally Posted by 1986nate

Maybe he gets commision

Maybe I should just keep quite and try to make a deal with him for a cut???

Keith

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by kwren

Maybe I should just keep quite and try to make a deal with him for a cut???

Keith

Wow Keith!

Landmark post, 1500 clocked up.

Congratulations!

And a very Happy New Year to you and to Marilyn. I hope you had a good Christmas.

Joe

[benebob]

You need to rebuild your alternator or have something else bleeding the system. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE 12.75 volts according to Subaru. Personally I'll believe Subaru over kwren as he already said we're too far away for him to come pick you up when you stop moving on that cold, rainy night 30 miles downhill from home without your cell phone.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by benebob

You need to rebuild your alternator or have something else bleeding the system. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE 12.75 volts according to Subaru. Personally I'll believe Subaru over kwren as he already said we're too far away for him to come pick you up when you stop moving on that cold, rainy night 30 miles downhill from home without your cell phone.

If you are referring to the Car Subaru, obviously you haven't preformed the test to really be able to know what you are talking about... the test that I so kindly laid out for you.

If you are referring to some Subaru mechanic that probably doesn't know which end is up, simply test yourself on your SVX. By their own admission most will tell you that electrical is not their expertise.

I naturally belong to AAA, the 150 mile one, as do all SVX owners. I always make a point to take my cell with me, even if it is just to go out the door to feed my dogs. So I am in pretty good shape cell wise.

Again, simply perform the test on your own SVX. This is a no-brainer.

Take care,
Keith

[kwren]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Wow Keith!

Landmark post, 1500 clocked up.

Congratulations!

And a very Happy New Year to you and to Marilyn. I hope you had a good Christmas.

Joe

Thank you for your kindness Joe!

Best wishes back in every endeavor as well

Keith and Marilyn

[benebob]

Originally Posted by kwren

If you are referring to the Car Subaru, obviously you haven't preformed the test to really be able to know what you are talking about... the test that I so kindly laid out for you.

If you are referring to some Subaru mechanic that probably doesn't know which end is up, simply test yourself on your SVX. By their own admission most will tell you that electrical is not their expertise.

I naturally belong to AAA, the 150 mile one, as do all SVX owners. I always make a point to take my cell with me, even if it is just to go out the door to feed my dogs. So I am in pretty good shape cell wise.

Again, simply perform the test on your own SVX. This is a no-brainer.

Take care,
Keith

I don't need to do it again as I already did it when I was trying to figure out why our racer SVX was killing its battery. Besides, I'd have to pull it out of hibernation. My SVX runs at 13.2 volts regardless of any of the factory accessories I had on at idle (which is what the FSM said was spec.). Our racer which doesn't have nearly the load as there aren't any lights aside from the idiot lights working, no ps to run, no abs and no auto tranny still puts out 12.75 at an idle (which as I said isn't enough to keep it running or starting after a couple days of racing). That 12.75 is coming off of a smaller pulley.

I don't and never have had AAA on my SVX. I guess I just take better care of my SVX then "all SVX owners".

The only time that it broke down BTW was when my alternator failed. It was still charging over 12 volts at idle but didn't make it more than 15 miles in stop and go traffic.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by benebob

I don't need to do it again as I already did it when I was trying to figure out why our racer SVX was killing its battery. Besides, I'd have to pull it out of hibernation. My SVX runs at 13.2 volts regardless of any of the factory accessories I had on at idle (which is what the FSM said was spec.). Our racer which doesn't have nearly the load as there aren't any lights aside from the idiot lights working, no ps to run, no abs and no auto tranny still puts out 12.75 at an idle (which as I said isn't enough to keep it running or starting after a couple days of racing). That 12.75 is coming off of a smaller pulley.

benebob, you must have spent a lot of time out in the rain before you got that rain coat!
Would please just read the above quote and tell me that it makes any sense to you.

Thanks,
Keith