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#1
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brakes not grabbing.
I changed the calipers on my black svx beacuse they were not grabbing and had always been like this. I used the calipers from my silver SVX that I know work because I was using them before I took them off my silver SVX, which I was driving not too long ago. I just finish bleeding the brakes but they still don't grab all the way, they will stop the car but very slowly. What are other posible causes? how can I narrow the problem down?
Thank you. |
#2
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The question is, relatively just by how much peddle pressure is required if this is in fact the issue. If it is the prime problem, you should investigate the brake booster.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#3
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Poor brakes
If you have to 'stand' on them to work, it could be the booster, or vacumn lines to it. But, the booster just makes it easier, not better.
If you push on the pedal and it slowly drifts to the floor, it's the master cylinder leaking internally. If neither of these applies, it could be: A pinched or otherwise blocked brake line. Air in the lines. (even ones you didn't detach) Caliper not sliding on bracket. Good luck! Last edited by cdvs; 04-20-2007 at 08:59 PM. |
#4
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#5
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when I push on the brake peddle It requires alot of force for it to finally stop the car and the distance that the brake peddle travels to stop is not very much. What's the brake booster?
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#8
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Booster
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The way you describe it, it doesn't really sound like the booster, but it's hard to say, even if you're only one state away. More force would be needed, but otherwise, stopping would be the same. Check the lines to make sure none are bashed. You could always swap the master cylinder and booster, but... I'd put my time into making sure all the lines are bled, in the correct order, including the ABS. |
#9
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how do you bleed the ABS?
I used the following order to Bleed my brakes: Right Rear Left Front Left Rear Right Front Last edited by SVXgarcia; 04-20-2007 at 09:49 PM. |
#10
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Bleed Order
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The order is: Primary Secondary Front Right Rear Left Front Left Rear Right. Sounds like you skipped the ABS and did them backwards. |
#11
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I had no idea about bleeding the ABS!
How do I actually bleed the ABS? is it just like bleeding the calipers? Thanks for your time and help with this. Do you think this is the reason for my faulty brakes? Last edited by SVXgarcia; 04-21-2007 at 08:12 AM. |
#12
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You're welcome. Not certain, your description is unusual, although your problem may not be. What I'm suggesting is to eliminate the potential causes by doing the least time consuming and costly things first. That's what I'd do. |
#13
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One more question before i get started. Which ones are the ABS bleeders? Please be specific. Thank you once again.
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#14
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ABS bleeders
The top is your master cylinder.
The bottom is the ABS. There are 2 rubber caps on the bleed valves. |
#15
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If the brake is hard but then softly hits bottom, then you have air in the line.
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