SVX 4EAT to WRX 5MT swap underway!

[TomsSVX]

I believe the cup needs to be shaved. This is the first time I will actually be doing a 5mt swap so I am also using a legacy shaft. If need be it is easier(cheaper) to cut a shaft shorter than make it longer... I need to take some measurements before I go installing anything. There are many good X-member ideas out there just do a search and look for pics. My "Beginng of the 3rd 6mt" Thread has some pics but not too detailed to say the least... Well good luck and feel free to ask more Q's

Tom

[svxcuseme]

Tom you are correct. I also need to grind down the transmission output shaft. I pulled the bell shaped dirt/grease gaurd off the back of the trans (came off easily) so I could see exactly where my drive shaft (DS) is bottoming out.

I'm hitting the output shaft of the trans. Looks like I have two options.

1. Go to a shop and get 3/8" to 1/2" cut off the front piece of the DS.
2. Carefully grind 3/8" off the tip of the trans output shaft and cut a 3/8" ring from the cup of the DS.

I'm going with option 2. That will give me the needed free play with no added expense. Looks like cutting the cup is not the only mod when using a DS from a manual 96' Outback with a 2002 WRX 5mt.

More to follow ...

[svxcuseme]

Shaving the trans output shaft gave me some clearance but not enough. It still binds when trying to install it. The drive shaft is at a local drive line shop. They are removing 3/4" from the front section and balancing. More to follow ...

[TomsSVX]

when I get mine, I will do some measurements

Tom

[svxcuseme]

I'm interested to know how what you come up with. In all, I shortened my driveline by 1 and 1/8" inches

Picked up the new, shorter drive shaft tonight. I now have a drive shaft that fits !!! SVX Carrier bracket is off and ready to weld up to it's new Outback DS.

[svxcuseme]

I spent some time considering the cross member after getting some advice from Mychailo and looking at the different members others have wipped up. I decided to use the WRX front cross member. I welded 2" sqaure tubing to each side of the subframe. Since I'm using the WRX member I'm going to have to cut out the front cats and re-route the exhaust as others have done. 12 hours later, it's in and very solid! I'll post some pics once I get everything complete.

If there was a tired smiley face I'd use it now.

Happy New Year !!!
Marc

[TomsSVX]

I think mine will fit nicely but since I don't have a stock Driveshaft to size it up to I cannot tell if it will work properly yet. you are gonna have to wait until I start the swap

Tom

[svxcuseme]

I'm patient.

Everything is in with the exception of the exhaust and wiring.

Question:
1. The WRX pedal assembly came with two switches on the clutch. I'm assuming one is used as a starter relay, when the clutch is depressed. Is the other for killing the cruise?

Both switches are closed circuit when the button is pushed. By their location on the assembly, one is activated only when the clutch is fully depressed. The other is activated when the clutch is in rest position.

2. I read some posts about the interlock switch. I need to jumper this correct? This way the the switch always thinks the car is in Park or neutral so I can turn and remove the key.

[Earthworm]

Originally Posted by svxcuseme

Question:
1. The WRX pedal assembly came with two switches on the clutch. I'm assuming one is used as a starter relay, when the clutch is depressed. Is the other for killing the cruise?

That is correct.

Originally Posted by svxcuseme

2. I read some posts about the interlock switch. I need to jumper this correct? This way the the switch always thinks the car is in Park or neutral so I can turn and remove the key.

Also correct. The connecter you need to jump pins on is by the shifter.

[TomsSVX]

you know, I never had to jump that with the 6mt... I dunno maybe my ignition was broken... but I never had to do it

Tom

[svxcuseme]

Well I got the front exhaust pieces bolted up last night. Put a vacuum on the pipes I welded where I cut out the front cats. No leaks. You will understand my enthusiasm when you see my Frankensteinish welding!

I installed both clutch switches and spliced the top switch (when the clutch is fully depressed) into the starter relay. Also, jumped the shift lock.

Strangly the NSS switch off the trans only shows continuity between poles when the shifter is moved from neutral to any gear and vice versa. There is no continuity (open circuit) once the shifter is in neutral or in gear. Is this normal? I expected to see continuity (closed circuit) when the shifter is in neutral.

I think this switch may be bad. Tha Nasioc guys said the switch should show less then 1 mOhm resistance when in neutral and greater then 1 mOhm when in any gear. Either my voltmeter isn't sensitive enough or the NSS is bad.

Everything is pretty much ready to go. All thats left is to connect the starter, battery, put seat in, and turn the key, Very excited !!!!! wish me luck.

[Earthworm]

There's 2 pairs of wires coming from the 5MT. One pair for signaling the reverse lights and the other for the cruise control. It's designed to cut the cruise if the shifter is pulled out of gear. It should be closed circuit while in gear and open in neutral.

[svxcuseme]

Makes sense. Thanks. I'll do another test tonight before I get the car on the ground. Maybe my readings were off.

[svxcuseme]

Drove it out of the garage tonight! Cooooooooool

Clutch engagement is smoooth. Ride is smoooth. Took it on the interstate and no vibrations. I'll stop here before I start drooling all over the keyboard.

I will post some pics of the different components in the next couple days.

Thanks to Mychailo for all the advice and consideration. Thanks to Huck for the write up. Thanks to Tom, Earthworm, and Chiktd for the posts on clutches, switches, etc.

Now I say what gear !

[Earthworm]

Originally Posted by svxcuseme

Now I say what gear !

And you can use any gear you want...whenever you want. 25mph in 5th gear even.