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#16
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Well I got the TCU out. It is really tight under the steering column. The connectors are hard to reach. Not enough wire length to get it away from the brake pedal. I stopped by Radio Shack and got some leads to use in the connector next to the wire, as it says it the service books. I just can't believe all the tests they have in the service manual envolving the connectors on the TCU. This not a user friendly place. And if that is the ECU in front of TCU!!!!!!! Test on that will not be easy either.
Tomorrow I'll find out. |
#17
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Re: Re: Re: ABS Sensors & AWD
I'll try to borrow a digital camera and take a picture of that page.
I don't own a copy of the manual. The local library does, and I'll get a copy for you. I'm not disputing what you are saying, in fact, I agree with you that the ABS should have nothing to do with the AWD. That's what the VSS is there for. I mean, some SVXes, and certainly a large number of Legacy's didn't have ABS and had AWD. However, I'm just regurgitating what the manual said. I *believe* they were implying that the ABS sensors were used to sense different wheel speeds, and therefore traction, and in a turn where the wheel speeds are different, it can sense it, and put the car in 90/10 split to reduce the possibility of binding. I know that in some cars the ABS sensors are used to detect wheel spin and engage the traction control system. My since totalled 95 Legacy L+ FWD comes to mind. If someone has the manuals and a scanner (AreDub, where are YOU??), the page I'm referring to is in the tranmission section. I found it while looking up the Duty Solenoid C troubleshoot procedure, so it should be near there. Back to the problem at hand, since you mentioned the VSS, could a busted VSS not trigger a code, still have the speedo working, and cause svx_commuter's car to not have AWD? VK Definitely no AWD expert. Quote:
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#18
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I checked out duty solenoid "C" at the TCU connector and the voltages are fine. It has 11.6Volts in P and N. At rest in R,D,3,2,1 it is .37Volts to 3.7Volts and it oscillates on the digital volt meter. When driving at 5 mph it is about 5V and in a tight turn, left or right about 5V also. In a fast stomp to the floor I was not sure, as it was beeping and it is hard to keep track of the decimal point on the digital. So I got the analog meter and the voltage goes to ZERO when I stomp on the accelerator from rest. The analog also shows and the oscillation when at rest and in gear.
The resistance is 14.4 Ohms. Would you agree that this means the transfer passageways are plugged up? |
#19
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Quote:
__________________
Pull my finger! |
#20
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I have two more thoughts. The tranny man did not check the line pressure up front so I am going to have that done. To make sure it is where it is supposed to be. Could it be low line pressure? The tech manual has a very lrage range of what is acceptable. Any thoughts on this? What about connecting the line pressure port in the front with the one in the rear? You know, run a hose from the one to the other. Would this not by-pass any blockage and engage the clutch? If the clutch is good. Also a comment. I was speaking with Pat at Level Ten. He says that the transfer valve was changed after 92 because the original was too weak. Have you ever heard of that? |
#21
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I've heard that Level 10 replaces transfer solenoids with suposedly updated ones...but I don't recall any bulletins about an updated part. But I may have missed it, or forgotten it, that's nearly 10 years ago now.
__________________
Pull my finger! |
#22
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Dear Ed,
Thank you again for your help. When the car was at the tranny shop, the rear end transfer clutch pressure was measured. It was zero. Quote:
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#23
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So the rear wheel drive does work on my car and the transmission shops do not really want to work on it. So I decided to cut the wire at the TCU for solenoid "C". Maybe this will clear any blockage in the transfer section. It will be open all the time and should see higher pressure always since it will open at highway speeds. A cheap attempt at a fix this is. I will most likely wire in a switch. Then I could turn it on and off as Larry III has suggested. If it ever starts to work!
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