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#1
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ticking/knocking after I...
... changed my camshaft/crankshaft seals. It started off faint, then in a matter of days, it's loud enough to hear pretty clearly with my windows up. At first it sounded like the timing belt was loose and it was hitting the plastic cover. I listened where it was coming from, it turns out it's coming from the driver side front/middle area. So, I took off the driver side timing cover and started her up. It's not the belt. It sounds like it's coming from inside the head. The sound only is apparent when the engines at idle. On higher revs, it's gone. Idle, I think, is slightly more rough than before the seal replacement. And the exhaust note is a little more lower/raspier sounding. What the heck is going on . The performance while driving is normal. Could someone please help me. I don't want to do the "push it till it breaks" idea.
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#2
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If it's a ticking, I bet it's a stuck HLA. If it's a knock..well.......you've got me there.
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-Jason (8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95 Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod, svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar, silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear (1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver (12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k) I have a bad feeling about this. -Obi Wan Kenobi |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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i.e. cam follower, tappet, whatever. There could be a blocked oil way. I understand there are products claimed to provide a fix for this problem.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#5
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ive been told that if you use a quart of atf with to your engine oil and run it for about 3k the detergents in the atf will help clean up the gunk. Ive done it in my mx6 and it helped with the noise...thats assuming it is your HLA's
dont over fill the engine oil..change your oil and add it then.
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Eric Rebuilt P/S pump info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50918 If your car wont start info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ighlight=click |
#6
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Yes, ATF is said to help clear them up. But, unless you take them out and basically "reset" them, there's no guarantee. And yes, that's assuming the tapping is coming from behind the valve cover and isn't something more serious. The tapping is pretty distinct though.
__________________
-Jason (8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95 Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod, svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar, silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear (1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver (12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k) I have a bad feeling about this. -Obi Wan Kenobi |
#7
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#8
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Hey thanks for the inside scoops, I'll try the ATF idea.
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#9
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I had similair problem with my first 92 SVX at about 155k miles. It turned out to be timing belt idle tensioner, sprocket, and something else. Anyways almost all of the the gear type things that the timing belt rotates on. When they showed me the old parts, I could turn them and they literally knocked,clicked, and cracked from just turning them with my hand. So at ideling rpms they rattle more, and at higher rpms their forced to spin faster and straighten out.
Or if you havent maintained the engine something could be up with that. But I put 288k miles on my first SVX before I sold it. And I beat that car, but maintained it well. Never a problem internally with the engine though. I have little mechanical knowledge but I think I've paid to replace almost every part on an SVX. So I have some knowledge of symptoms. |
#10
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Hey Aloha, alohanjv . I'm glad to see another active SVXer in Hawaii. I will take a closer look on the belt area again when time permits. Thanks for the tip. |
#11
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I would check the harmonic balancer to crankshaft, bolt again. Tighten it to 150ft/lb, as they will clack on the key way, if loose. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#12
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Ticking noise
I changed my timing belt and seals a few month ago. After starting the car up I had the same type knocking/ticking noise. I rechecked how to set the timing belt tensioner and found that I set it wrong (too tight). I slid it all the way toward the center of the engine instead of all the way toward the battery. I got left/right sides mixed up facing the engine.
When I discovered my mistake I loosened the bolts on the timing belt tensioner and let it slide toward the battery, restarted the car and the noise went away in a few minutes. I figure that too much tension was on the cams on the driver side casuing them to knock. The noise has not returned yet. Think back how you set the tensioner. I hope this helps. Ken |
#13
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The tensioner should be snug when installed. Over time the timing belt stretches and the tensioner will take up that slack. If the tensioner is installed loose then it may not be able to take up the slack causing the timing belt to jump.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
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