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#1
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Front end clatter diagnosis
Like others I'm experiencing a lot of noise from the front end - even when rolling slowly over almost imperceptible bumps. At speed it's solid as a rock. The Subaru dealer has no clue whatsoever (SVX? What's that?).
One previous post from an equally annoyed driver suggests replacing the upper strut mounts with modified ones. Cost of the modified mounts is about $140, and replacement is no picnic. Before I do that job, is there any way to be certain that the problem will go away? Hopefully there's some sort of diagnostic procedure that will pinpoint the failure(s) -- does anyone know what it is? ??? |
#2
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Does the clattering go away when you lightly apply the brakes? If so, you simply need to add back the OEM shims that were probably pitched during a past brake job.
If the clattering remains during braking, it is something else. Statistics would say it was the strut mounts, but that's not an absolute cause. Have you attempted to tighten the big strut nuts under the hood? Pop off the black plastic covers and tighten the center nut. Some people have noted that their's were so loose you could turn them by hand. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#3
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Is it a knocking that you're experiencing?
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#4
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It's a knocking and banging sound - only at slow speeds and on nearly smooth roads.
The sound does go away with the brakes applied lightly - that's encouraging. So it might be shims -- ????? Where do they go and what are the part numbers, etc? I like that a LOT more than new upper strut mounts. |
#5
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I wouldn't be so quick to blame the shims. If it's the same kind of knocking I've got, almost like the fraction of a second after a door has been slammed and it is still vibrating against the jamb, then it's way too strong/substantial to just be brake pads clattering around.
KuoH |
#6
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But I'd like to CHECK the shim situation - what should I look for? The whole assembly seems to be pretty tight... nothing loose.
I put these pads in myself - no problem and no parts left over. |
#7
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i have the same problem.....maybe. the strut bolts can't get any tighter. i have brake shims and clips on the way, so hopefully it is that - i'll give a report when i put them in. the wife's WRX is so rock solid that its even more noticeable when i drive the SVX. mine seems fine on smooth roads, but any bumps or wrinkles in the road and it clatters and rattles. i was thinking that it could be bushings, too. my poor wallet......
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Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black) |
#8
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I have the same thing going on ...0-10 mph or so it sounds like a little elf underneath my front end whacking it with a block of wood. I've noticed it more so lately with all the poorly plowed roads around here as well as all the other fun mine fields Massachusetts has to offer. I'm getting service on Wed...will run it by them.
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#9
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What "center nut"??? I found three nuts, about 5/8", and a rubber seal covering the opening.
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#10
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Quote:
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Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black) |
#11
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That rubber cover isn't moving! I tried prying, turning, everything but a torch.
Am I supposed to relax those three nuts first? I don't see any other possibility of getting past the rubber cover. |
#12
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Quote:
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=262-A There are two shims on the inboard side and one on the outboard side. There may not have been any shims on the car when you bought it, therefore you wouldn't have seen them when you did the brake job. The system will seem tight to inspection. You can't really tell by hand if the rattling is brakes because you can't put enough force onto it to simulate real life situations. Doug
__________________
1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#13
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I'm getting service on Wed...will run it by them.
Please let us know what they find!
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#14
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Beav was hinting in a previous thread that this low bump rattle may also be caused by the power steering rack and is possibly adjusted by a lash adjustment.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#15
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I'd still like to find out how to get to the "center bolt" atop the front strut. There appears to be no way to remove the rubber part - or is there?
And regarding diagnosis, the possibilities are: 1. Brake pad shims are missing. 2. Top front strut mount should be replaced with modified version. 3. Steering rack needs adjustment. How can I tell the difference and go straight to the real cause of the problem? |
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