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#1
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AMR Coilover install questions
I've finally put the SVX in my shop to install the AMRs. I've admired them sitting on the shelf long enough. I've skimmed the posts and haven't found details that might answer my questions. My skill level is such that I've never worked on a strut or coilover suspension but I'm reasonably competent- it doesn't look to be all that difficult- but, I know the devil's in the details. Since I have the rear deck off, I'm also changing out speakers and will look at my window brushes in the back, then, later, the front brushes when I change out the door speakers. First, though, the suspension.
So, I pulled a rear strut and stood the coilover next to it and adjusted it to be the same length which, of course, did not give the same ride height. So, I've been messing with it a bit, adjusting the lower sleeve to get the same ride height. The problem I run into is that I really have to jerk the whole brake disc and strut knuckle pretty hard and it's tough to line up the coilover with the holes in the knuckle. Maybe that's okay but I want to check with anyone else who has installed these. I'd rather not create a problem. Right now, the coilover is much shorter than the strut and I think I still need to shorten it. The distance between wheel well lip and tire on the strut side is about 1/4". On the coilover side, it's over an inch. I prefer 1/4" but I worry about how much I'm forcing the coilover to line up with the knuckle. Should I not worry? Regarding adjustment: I've only adjusted the lower tube and collar that the knuckle attaches to. I'm assuming that I shouldn't mess with the collar at the base of the spring. Is that true? And, when I put the adjuster screws on top for adjusting the ride firmness, can I make the adjustment, then pull the screw so the hood isn't dented by it? Will it hold the setting? Any advice? Am I messing with something I shouldn't mess with? One complaint so far: the brake line clips. One is set about 45 degrees off and the screws don't fit; I've got to buy the right size screws. Small details, but I think I paid for more attention to detail. Thanks! |
#2
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Re: AMR Coilover install questions
Having no advice to go with, I went ahead and did the coilover swap. It was fairly easy and the screws actually fit once I cleaned out the powder coat from the threads. There are some details of the swap I'm a little unsure of, but I'll have my mechanic check my work. What I don't like is how loosely the coilovers fit in their respective knuckles- just like the struts, allowed for a small amount of variation in wheel camber. Not knowing any better, I expected it to be more precise.
If anyone with coilover experience has any advice, warnings, something I should look out for, let me know. The ride height is a little low but I think it looks cool so I'll leave it for a few days. Ride comfort is better than expected. I thought it would be like a logging truck but, even on the gravel roads, it firm but not abrupt. Don't know how else to explain it. I wouldn't know how to compare it to anything else on a race track in any kind of slalom but I expect I'll be able to accelerate more smoothly now because when I shift gears now, there's no front/rear rock when I push in the clutch. All in all, I'm very pleased and impressed. Last edited by WYOSVX; 10-26-2014 at 11:52 AM. |
#3
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Re: AMR Coilover install questions
Any interference of the new coilovers with the front hood? Someone reported they were too tall and dimpled his hood.
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#4
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Re: AMR Coilover install questions
Quote:
See my post #6. Maybe the problem was leaving the adjustment knob in place. However, the mounting studs look too tall. I would have cut them shorter. .
__________________
. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#5
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Re: AMR Coilover install questions
Maybe my studs are shorter. My mounting studs are fine, though they are longer than stock.
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