OK, I've decided to fix the oil leaks... What else should I replace?

[clarkerussell]

Originally Posted by North Ursalia

You can try Jamie @ SubaruGenuineParts.com too- still up in WA like SubaruParts.com, but her shipping is usually cheaper.

As for the crank seal, it's bad that I still know this off the top of my head after being out of a Subaru dealership for over 4 years, but it's 806733030 . You should get 806919050 as well, which is the o ring on the back of the pump, and fully reseal the oil pump if you're already in there. You'll need some RTV sealant as well, as that's what sticks the pump to block and finishes up the sealing.

OK, so I found these on subaruparts.com, but where is the oil pump located in relation to the other accessories? Is it accessable when the timing belt is off? Thanks.

Clarke

[Cam]

It is mounted to the front of the engine in the center. It is necessary to remove the timing belt and pulley on the crank for the timing belt.

1) Remove all the bolts that mount the pump to the block.
2) On the passenger side of the oil pump on the top you will find a small lip. Use a screwdriver to remove the oil pump (A BIG SCREWDRIVER) and pry against the block using that lip. (Remember they used a sealer between the oil pump and the block , which makes it sometimes difficult to remove.)
3) Be sure to use ULTRA BLACK or ULTRA GREY silicone to re-seal the pump.

[Lookin4SVX]

Yeah my guide has the prices on it from Subaruparts.com when I ordered them.
The 2 orders I placed with them took me 3 weeks to get parts from Suabruparts.com.

If you order from subarupartsforyou they come as kits.
http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_part...skts&model=SVX

I live in CT and they subarupartsforyou are based in CT so after taxes and shipping it was cheaper to wait the 3 weeks and get it across the country from subaruparts.com...

I have also ordered parts from 1stsubaruparts.com and they arrived in 1-2weeks. Their oem catalog page seems to be broken though...

...I need to try that Liberty Subaru place it seems.

[clarkerussell]

Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX

Yeah my guide has the prices on it from Subaruparts.com when I ordered them.
The 2 orders I placed with them took me 3 weeks to get parts from Suabruparts.com.

If you order from subarupartsforyou they come as kits.
http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_part...skts&model=SVX

I live in CT and they subarupartsforyou are based in CT so after taxes and shipping it was cheaper to wait the 3 weeks and get it across the country from subaruparts.com...

I have also ordered parts from 1stsubaruparts.com and they arrived in 1-2weeks. Their oem catalog page seems to be broken though...

...I need to try that Liberty Subaru place it seems.

I THINK all the items that I'm ordering cam be "folded" and fit in a flat rate Priority Mail box... that's 2-3 days and should only run $11 or so and they don't even have to pay for the box. I'm even OK paying the $23 they want as long as it wasn't shipped via UPS ground... Washington is WAY too far away to wait for Ground shipping.

[clarkerussell]

Originally Posted by Cam

It is mounted to the front of the engine in the center. It is necessary to remove the timing belt and pulley on the crank for the timing belt.

1) Remove all the bolts that mount the pump to the block.
2) On the passenger side of the oil pump on the top you will find a small lip. Use a screwdriver to remove the oil pump (A BIG SCREWDRIVER) and pry against the block using that lip. (Remember they used a sealer between the oil pump and the block , which makes it sometimes difficult to remove.)
3) Be sure to use ULTRA BLACK or ULTRA GREY silicone to re-seal the pump.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm assuming it's driven by the timing belt then? Thanks.


Clarke

[Cam]

Originally Posted by clarkerussell

Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm assuming it's driven by the timing belt then? Thanks.


Clarke

Bingo. It is indeed driven by the timing belt.

[clarkerussell]

OK, I'm not really worried about the valve cover job, I think it's pretty straight forward. Are there a walk through for the timing belt/water pump/oil pump/pulley job anywhere?

Thanks.

Clarke

[Lookin4SVX]

I think some of what your looking for may be in here:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=78

Not sure about a walk through.

[clarkerussell]

Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX

I think some of what your looking for may be in here:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=78

Not sure about a walk through.

Thanks, I found that, but I couldn't find anything on the Timing Belt replacement. Once the covers are off it might make more sense, but I don't like jumping into a project with no plan...

[Cam]

Ok, I would recommend taking the alternator off, and the p/s pump too, just to make things a little easier. Leave the A/C. It won't really get in the way, and you don't want to pay to have it recharged. From there its pretty simple.

1) Remove Timing covers
2) Drop one pulley off to relieve tension on the belt.
3) Remove belt, and any pulleys, etc. in your way or that you plan to replace.
4) Remove timing pulley from crank. I was lucky and mine came off very easily. You may have to use a gear puller. Do NOT grip the pulley on the keys that get read by the sensors. They will break, and you will need another pulley.
5) Remove bolts from oil pump. Pry against block on the tab mentioned earlier located on oil pump.
6) Clean the mating surfaces with some sort of chemical (MEK, acetone, etc.) I find MEK works extremely well. (Sidenote : always properly ventilate area, wear chemical gloves, and DRY WIPE the surface before the MEK evaporates. It will leave a film on the metal if you do not.)
7) Replace front main seal, and o-ring behind the pump.
8) Apply ultra-grey or ultra-black RTV to the pump per the FSM, or find LAN's engine build how-to. It has a picture of the oil pump with the silicone on it.
9) Reinstall pump
10) Take tensioner off of engine and compress (use a vise, or in a pinch a c-clamp will work).
11) use a drift pin to lock the tensioner in the compressed position.
12) reinstall tensioner.
13) Reinstall all timing components
14) When doing the belt, be sure the markings line up with the PULLEYS and not the timing cover. (I leave one pulley off while doing this, and then reinstall the last pulley to put tension on the belt. After all pulleys are on, and timing is TRIPLE checked, I pull the drift pin out of the tensioner.)
15) Reinstall everything else.

I left out doing the cam seals because they are pretty straight forward. Also, you will have to find a way to torque the cam pulleys. I used my old timing belt, wrapped it around the pulleys, held it with vice grips and had a friend hold the belt taught while i applied the torque to the bolt.

Use thread lock on the pulley bolts. ALL OF THEM. Tensioners, idlers, etc.

You will also need a tool for installing the crank pulley bolt. I made one out of flat stock and grade 8, 5/16" bolts.

Good luck.

[clarkerussell]

Thanks Cam! This is a good start and I think I can get it all apart and back together without much trouble. It's keeping the timing correct that worries me...

Clarke

[Cam]

Zero interference leaves some room for error . If you just triple check that all your marks are dead on before AND after you pull the drift pin on the tensioner your ECU will do the rest.

[huck369]

Originally Posted by Cam

Bingo. It is indeed driven by the timing belt.

Actually it's driven by the cranks shaft itself, which drives the timing belt, ....just a clarification

[Cam]

Your right. My bad, I was tired yesterday...ya, that's it.

[clarkerussell]

OK, so I've got my parts list together and including all the seals, 6 new plugs, and 2-day shipping I'm at about $220 from ubarugenuineparts.com. I called and they have all the parts in stock, so I should have them by Thursday.

BIG weekend haead of me

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the service manual for a 1996? Thanks in advance.

Clarke