Wants to overheat

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

WORD, baby!!! Sometimes I get lucky. Actually, as annoying as this car has been, I have been pretty lucky. The gauge problem was only a sender. The dripping fluid from the bottom engine cover was a loose fitting on the power steering pump. The dead A/C was a leaky o-ring.

The thing that I find interesting about Michael's case is that the temperature rises quickly and stays high. In most of the HG cases, doesn't it usually start off with the gauge reading normal, spiking randomly and then settling back down?

On a related note, I really enjoy seeing the words, "This user is on your Ignore List."

It depends on how/where the HG is leaking. It has seemed common on the EG33 for it to read normal cruising on the highway, but then it spikes and stays hot once you slow down. On the pearlie I picked up (known bad HG) the temp gauge continually and gradually rises from cold to normal and then at the same pace continues to rise. You can also smell coolant burning and a little white smoke from the tailpipe.

[kwren]

I would make sure the fans are running when they are supposed to run... real easy place to start

Keith

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Cam

Start with the thermostat. Cheapest and easiest. You should be able to do it yourself if you have some standard tools. If that doesn't work then I would move on to verifying your radiator is not plugged. If none of the above applies there may be a good chance your headgaskets are on their way out (or if your lucky like huskymaniac was it could be a gauge related issue. He was the exception rather than the rule though).

Only problem with "lucky"... his car still "ain't fixed"

Keith

[immortal_suby]

Please keep the discussion civil. Posts have been removed from this thread. Thanks.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Michael Blue

Within 10 minutes, maybe sooner.
It was in town, slow city driving with the a/c on.
Fans sounded like they were working fine.

It is likely the stat is hanging open just slightly... I would advise to change the thermostat as well. Get it done and go from there.

Tom

[Michael Blue]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

...On a related note, I really enjoy seeing the words, "This user is on your Ignore List."

Thanks, didn't know we could do that here.

[Michael Blue]

Got the thermostat about done, that upper bolt is a PITA to see/reach.
Can't get the socket on it very well to snug it up.
Update when I get it done...
~M

[Green1995SVX]

Originally Posted by Michael Blue

Got the thermostat about done, that upper bolt is a PITA to see/reach.
Can't get the socket on it very well to snug it up.
Update when I get it done...
~M

Edit.

I wasnt reading.

[Michael Blue]

Doesn't seem to have been the thermostat.
I'm going to make sure all the air is out of the system, then it goes to a shop for diagnosis/likely water pump.
Thanks!

~M

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Michael Blue

Doesn't seem to have been the thermostat.
I'm going to make sure all the air is out of the system, then it goes to a shop for diagnosis/likely water pump.
Thanks!

~M

If the water pump is leaking you could have seen fluid coming out the weep hole on the pump. If it didn't turn, the timing belt would be gone in seconds.

Keith

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Michael Blue

Doesn't seem to have been the thermostat.
I'm going to make sure all the air is out of the system, then it goes to a shop for diagnosis/likely water pump.
Thanks!

~M

If your heater still blew hot air its not your waterpump. Get a block test for that headgasket.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

If your heater still blew hot air its not your waterpump. Get a block test for that headgasket.

Did he say his heater still blew hot air? I didn't see that but you are probably right about the heater being a good sign of a bad water pump which could just have a broken impeller. The heater should release some heat though, even if only through conduction.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Michael Blue

Doesn't seem to have been the thermostat.
I'm going to make sure all the air is out of the system, then it goes to a shop for diagnosis/likely water pump.
Thanks!

~M

With an air pocket in the cooling system, it will do strange things. This can be difficult to correct unless you happen to know what you are doing.

The following method has worked consistently for me over the years on my SVX's so I will pass it on.

Best way I have found to get air out of the cooling system is to fill the radiator and immediately take the large hose loose where it is clamped to the top, lift it enough to pour coolant in it and when it is full, reconnect the hose and top off radiator, fasten radiator cap on and check for proper level of coolant in the reservoir.

This should be worth remembering in case it is needed... But... for the few "smart folks" that that already live the less effective hit and miss methods, please don't waste time telling "us less intelligent folks" why this won't possibly work.

Keith

[Michael Blue]

Seems like the system was properly "burped".
Dropped it off for professional diagnosis.
Let's hope it's just a water pump...

~M

[Michael Blue]

They called back, they think it's a headgasket (or both).
It will idle forever without getting hot, it's only when you give it a load it heats up.
They said this is because at least one cylinder is putting pressure into the cooling system via a crack in the HG.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

~M