New member, please answer my Q's...

[liamrh]

...appreciated if you would!!


New owner of 1994 svx L, fwd, 120k, no regular maintenance in four years because the guy didn't know better than to change the oil and had no problems. Drives, shifts, just fine. Got the IFR6E11's on order. Even though it cost out my ass. but given the lifespan of plugs, don't mind it.

So everyone knows, I have done some FI builds on other GM 4 cyls and rebuilt some perf- SBC's, but mainly GM 4-cyls.

Many questions about the car, been lurking for a few days....I have used teh search, please be patient with a noob.

1. This transmission is past the time of getting clogged because of the screen, that was 1992's and 1993's?

2. How tough is it to replace the stock transmission filter? Does that guy still have them for $10 shipped?

3. Being that I live in MT, do I really need an extra cooler/filter post rad?

4. Gear oil? Transmisson Fluid? I'm assuming both need to be changed along with the oil, the plugs, etc. Suggested gear oil and trans fluid?

5. How long till my autotrans dies?

6. Other suggested maintenance? Brakes and that are new from August.

Perf- section - goal = DD, keep the auto, get stb's or fab them, fab the cai(crazy), get the ecutune 1v5?

7. WTF, no strut tower bars? I saw the group buy.This car amazingly has less aftermarket than my old saturn. Are there any of those bars left? Has anyone ever made rears?

8. Plumbing and locations for oil psi and trans temp sensors.

9. Do people just run a pipe out through the fender hole for a cai? I noticed that the stocker was setup pretty well.

10. tommyz(sp?) intake? Still around?

11. ECUtune 1v5 daughter board.....how does it work? Any problems reported?

12. Crush the bead why?

13. 15$/15minutes - I saw the install post, could someone explain the concept please?

Thanks guys!! I will have more as times goes on, please be patient. I really appreciate the help.

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by liamrh

...appreciated if you would!!


New owner of 1994 svx L, fwd, 120k, no regular maintenance in four years because the guy didn't know better than to change the oil and had no problems. Drives, shifts, just fine. Got the IFR6E11's on order. Even though it cost out my ass. but given the lifespan of plugs, don't mind it.

So everyone knows, I have done some FI builds on other GM 4 cyls and rebuilt some perf- SBC's, but mainly GM 4-cyls.

Many questions about the car, been lurking for a few days....I have used teh search, please be patient with a noob.

1. This transmission is past the time of getting clogged because of the screen, that was 1992's and 1993's?

Yes and no, debris can become a factor even with the later years from experience.

2. How tough is it to replace the stock transmission filter? Does that guy still have them for $10 shipped?

There can be one or two filters, one in the pan and another in line on the left frame rail(also known as the recall filter). the pan is easy to drop. Use an oem pan gasket and filter.

3. Being that I live in MT, do I really need an extra cooler/filter post rad?

A good b&m cooler would benefit you come summer.

4. Gear oil? Transmisson Fluid? I'm assuming both need to be changed along with the oil, the plugs, etc. Suggested gear oil and ATF?

Use synthetic ATF such as amsoil (highly recommended) and royal purple gear oil usually 80w90

5. How long till my autotrans dies?

There are many factors which can influence this.

6. Other suggested maintenance? Brakes and that are new from August.

Check/clear any CEL, check axle/cv boots and ball joints along with tie rod ends. Replace as necessary to avoid misalignment and excessive tire wear.

Perf- section - goal = DD, keep the auto, get stb's or fab them, fab the cai(crazy), get the ecutune 1v5?

7. WTF, no strut tower bars? I saw the group buy.This car amazingly has less aftermarket than my old saturn. Are there any of those bars left? Has anyone ever made rears?

Strut tower braces serve little or nopurpose due to the proximity of the shock tower to the firewall.

8. Plumbing and locations for oil psi and trans temp sensors.

9. Do people just run a pipe out through the fender hole for a cai? I noticed that the stocker was setup pretty well.

There are many variations of the setup.

10. tommyz(sp?) intake? Still around?

Yes, we have it available on sale at allwelldrive.net

11. ECUtune 1v5 daughter board.....how does it work? Any problems reported?

The improvements from this software has been somewhat disputed, but offers a map to run 87 octane fuel.

12. Crush the bead why?

To reduce delay from a full throttle start.


13. 15$/15minutes - I saw the install post, could someone explain the concept please?

Increases rigidity where the subframe mounts, reducing body movement in cornering.

Thanks guys!! I will have more as times goes on, please be patient. I really appreciate the help.

I hope some of these quick answers posted from my phone help.

[liamrh]

I'm sorry, but what?

[svxash]

If you read the reply you will notice that answers were pasted in the copied part of the reply.

[liamrh]

Indeed! Read through them.

Who else has answers?

I am suspicious of the reply to a fstb or rstb being installed, I don't see how they wouldn't provide a benefit to handling.

[RSVX]

Originally Posted by liamrh

Indeed! Read through them.

Who else has answers?

I am suspicious of the reply to a fstb or rstb being installed, I don't see how they wouldn't provide a benefit to handling.

Break out the search, this topic has been discussed to great length.

Also, merely looking under your hood could give some insight as well.

[liamrh]

Yeah, thanks.

Is the structural support member in plain site that is referenced?

[longassname]

While one of Mike's business partners would like me to die a slow painful death I don't believe the efficacy of the stage 1 software is disputed but don't trust me I wrote it. There is plenty of feedback on the forums. If you get one don't bother with the bead crush since the hessitation is fixed in the software.

The filter inside the transmission is not a filter; it's just a mesh screen. There is no reason to change it unless you are rebuilding the transmission so don't waste the pan gasket dropping the pan. I recomend you use genuine subaru atf for the phase I 4eat. It is very inexpensive, very good, and readily available in convenient cases of 12 at the dealer. Pay particular attention to how much fluid you put in. Many an svx transmission sees its end because too much fluid is put in. If you put too much fluid in a 4eat it will run hot; if you put a lot too much fluid in a 4eat it will overheat and destroy the transmission.

Stick with a 10w30 engine oil. The oil clearances on the bearings are too small to be happy with anything else. I like synthetic but there's nothing wrong with any of the quality conventional motor oils either.

You made the right choice on the spark plugs.

[JaySVX]

To the OP:
The strut towers are close enough to the firewall that the support of it provides more than sufficient support for the strut towers. On some cars, where the strut towers are farther forward and not so close to the firewall, it can be benefitial. The main problem with flex is front to back. Others have tried custom made strut tower bars with no noticable difference.

I use Mobile 1 5w-30 synthetic oil in my SVX, it's low viscosity provides easy cranking even on cold days, and plenty of protection at operating temperatures. However, oil is like opinions, everyone has their preference.

Most members that I've seen with CAI typically just put a cone style filter in the fender well. There are other methods but that seems to be the most efficient, both cost and otherwise.

[RSVX]

Lets not turn this thread into a battle.

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by longassname

While one of Mike's business partners would like me to die a slow painful death I don't believe the efficacy of the stage 1 software is disputed but don't trust me I wrote it. There is plenty of feedback on the forums. If you get one don't bother with the bead crush since the hessitation is fixed in the software.

The filter inside the transmission is not a filter; it's just a mesh screen. There is no reason to change it unless you are rebuilding the transmission so don't waste the pan gasket dropping the pan. I recomend you use genuine subaru atf for the phase I 4eat. It is very inexpensive, very good, and readily available in convenient cases of 12 at the dealer. Pay particular attention to how much fluid you put in. Many an svx transmission sees its end because too much fluid is put in. If you put too much fluid in a 4eat it will run hot; if you put a lot too much fluid in a 4eat it will overheat and destroy the transmission.

Stick with a 10w30 engine oil. The oil clearances on the bearings are too small to be happy with anything else. I like synthetic but there's nothing wrong with any of the quality conventional motor oils either.

You made the right choice on the spark plugs.

Mike,

With respect, I did specify "somewhat" and highlighted the 87 octane feature. No harm intended.

[liamrh]

Great and thanks for all the input!!

However, would it be provident to replace the external trans filter?

I am trying to get this to live till 200k, I do love the car.

I also have been around on forums since 2002 so I know the ways....so to speak. I am certainly not trying to provide a point for contention, just trying to surmise what options are available for me and the car that are just basic bolt ons.

Accordingly, no need to flame me, just shoot me a pm.

Keep it up guys!!

EDIT: Also, is that service manual for the 1992 (link) applicable to my 1994 for the most part?

EDIT II: Have you guys ever found the need to add a octane booster such as toluene? We have used it at the track a number of times and on custom forged high compression setups.

EDIT III: Apparently the diff doesn't require an oil change? Just topping it off via the fsm?

However, it would be a good idea to change the 10 qts of transmission fluid in my car though?

[genzzel]

may out in left field on this, but i believe there is a screen in the trans cooler in the rad of 92-93's. A good backwards flush of this cooler would be most helpful. If the fluid is not burnt, i would not change it. I use Kooler Klean from Lube Guard--self contained, pressurized can that you can hook up to backflush rad trans cooler----I got a lot of junk out of my 92 and 95 when i did it. Just my 2 cents

[taylorbr]

Originally Posted by longassname

The filter inside the transmission is not a filter; it's just a mesh screen. There is no reason to change it unless you are rebuilding the transmission so don't waste the pan gasket dropping the pan.

IMHO, it's beneficial to drop the pan and clean the magnet in there. There is a magnet in the tranny and diffs which works well at collecting all the debris, but a flush won't get that stuff out.

When I did that on the 4EAT in my leggy I was able to get a lot of crud out. Granted it may have stayed stuck to the magnet and not caused any issues, but I feel better knowing there is no crud in there in the first place given that the gasket and filter only cost $20-$30...

[liamrh]

Hmm, what I was wondering is whether or not the MAF would freak out if the characteristics of it's take path were changed. That was my plan, just run a pipe out with a filter on it.


So, 5-w30 10-w30.....really cold in mt.

Subaru atf, royal purple gear oil.

What about the external trans filter? Seems like a good idea to replace it also.

Timing belt and water pump? Should I get them done? Seems like a yes to me, albeit an expensive yes?