TURBOs!?

[kowitz]

How much boost is it possible to run on a stock motor?(somewhat reliably)

And roughly how much power(both hp and tq) can be expected?

Cost?

[Freeman]

Isn't it like 8 or 10 psi?

[crusader8]

Compression test is easy and the tested is $35 from autozone.

[JaySVX]

9lb i believe most are running. I think it was 12lb that YT shattered his piston. OT I think may have had 12lb on his setup successfully though. These are SC numbers, but you get the drift. YT's car on 9lb would be plenty fast for me.

[kowitz]

so I could safely run around 8psi on a stock motor.

How much will this cost, and how much power is to be expected?

[odepaj]

Originally Posted by kowitz

so I could safely run around 8psi on a stock motor.

How much will this cost, and how much power is to be expected?

Cost depends on alot of things.

Right now about the cheapest FI setup on the forums is Phil (Phast SVX). Last I read he was running 3.5-4.5psi which was good for a 14.5sec 1/4mile.

This was with a Forester(?) 5mt, ECUtune St 2v7F, and a low cost turbo setup.

He has purchased a slightly larger turbo now and could easily run 8psi.


I think with the Hydra system now we can see higher amounts of pressure run into the cylinders. Intercooling and more control on timing and afr's will lower the chances of detonation and we will see ring lands lasting longer.

"Longer" being the keyword there. None of this stuff is a sure-fire way around built internals.




Dustin

[kowitz]

Well I am planning on swapping the eg33 into my 98 impreza...so it should be quick anyway.

But Im thinking about a turbo setup for later on.

[longassname]

That is a trickier question than it seems. Different engines have performed differently. We saw as much as 70 wheel hp differnces between cars running the stage 3 prototypes. With some experience now I've noticed a large variation in cylinder pressures between different eg33's and a large variation in the oil clearances that came out of the factory. We've also seen a large difference in how well different cars handle ignition timing. That's part of what inspired me to release the new aggressive tuning that for the most part skips the learning of ignition advance and just puts it all in to begin with.

The reality is that most SVX engines that haven't been taken apart these days are on the verge of head gasket failure anyway just because of age so anyone who is serious about it builds an engine. Even with a built engine some attention needs to be spent to ensure that your ecu is actually applying the timing that your engine needs--if it doesn't then it both runs hot and slower than it should.

Personally, I woulndn't recomend trying to put forced induction on a stock engine. Chances are the engine could use some attention first. Phil has posted the info on how to redo the shift maps for the SVX TCU and I have posted some good shift maps for the US market SVX's and I have bullet proof transmissions. If you want to make a fast track car out of an SVX build a bullet proof drive train and get a big nitrous kit.

Originally Posted by kowitz

How much boost is it possible to run on a stock motor?(somewhat reliably)

And roughly how much power(both hp and tq) can be expected?

Cost?

[BackWoodsBob]

Originally Posted by odepaj

Also, as with any mods of this sort, a goal HP# is your first step! It makes designing the system alot easier (and it will be alot more efficient).
Dustin

Given that I have a goal hp in mind, I'd like some reassurance that my path is efficient and lets me reach my goal.

Goal HP: 3-375hp stock compression, for now
Lan stage 2
suggested MAF and injectors.
Detchwerks 225pump
GT30r remote mount.

My target spool RPM range is around 3,000rpm. Full spool no later than 4k with a redline raised to 7500. Major exhaust porting as well, UEL headers. OEM primaries mated to 2.25" secondaries to 3" catback.

Currently the engine has been ripped apart down to the halves and re-sealed, new gaskets including HG's. No leaks, no burnt oil, no weird noises. I should do a compression test, haven't got a tester at the moment however.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by BackWoodsBob

Given that I have a goal hp in mind, I'd like some reassurance that my path is efficient and lets me reach my goal.

Goal HP: 3-375hp stock compression, for now
Lan stage 2
suggested MAF and injectors.
Detchwerks 225pump
GT30r remote mount.

My target spool RPM range is around 3,000rpm. Full spool no later than 4k with a redline raised to 7500. Major exhaust porting as well, UEL headers. OEM primaries mated to 2.25" secondaries to 3" catback.

Currently the engine has been ripped apart down to the halves and re-sealed, new gaskets including HG's. No leaks, no burnt oil, no weird noises. I should do a compression test, haven't got a tester at the moment however.

Hi Bob,

Since you're starting up your own effort, you might want to start a dedicated thread instead of posting into threads that are several years old. It does look like you're going to have some fun!

Bill

[bazza]

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[BackWoodsBob]

Originally Posted by bazza

If you're going to turbo the EG33, then run a full aftermarket ecu - then the tune can be completely tuned to your setup which has major benefits.

The GT30R is fine for about 4-7 psi but bare in mind for this engine - it's a ridiculously small turbo. I'm running it's much bigger brother (GT35R) and even that's ridiculously small for these 3.3L's. GT40R+ is what these engines really need haha.

The stock cams are quite nasty and unless you run very low boost it probably won't pull to 7K. Also bare in mind you're aiming for 350 hp atw? That's about 260 kw atw which is about 8-9 psi with the GT35R and it only pulls to about 5800-6000 rpm before the power dies due to the cams. With the GT30R you'll prolly be around 10-12 psi for the same power and it will also hit the brick wall due to cams and or the turbo being to small.

Weird, from my research the GT30 would be perfect for a remote mount pushing 8psi. It would have a lower spool, but is somewhere between a TD05 20G and a TD06 20G.

It should be able to feed the engine well into the 6k range.

What, in regards to cams, causes it to not pull that high? Float? If so, I've read someone changing out the springs for turbo valve springs which are stiffer.

I have 0 tuning experience, so it would be better for me to start off on a Lan chip. Unless there is a tuning thread I overlooked which explains in simple terms how to tune and what changing specific parameters does. I don't have access to a dyno and don't have the wires necessary for a select monitor due to my wire harness being hacked by the original owner.

[BackWoodsBob]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Hi Bob,

Since you're starting up your own effort, you might want to start a dedicated thread instead of posting into threads that are several years old. It does look like you're going to have some fun!

Bill

That's the plan .
I'd rather bump an older thread, than to start a new thread that wont have updates for several months. At least until I land a second job and start the ball rolling.

Best to not leave too much anticipation in the air, otherwise people lose interest .

[bazza]

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[BackWoodsBob]

Originally Posted by bazza

This is a 3.3l, not a pissy little 4 banger 2.5l. Everything big on 2.5 l is now small on 3.3l.

Lol valve float - issue is the cam duration and lift.

Hmm... I figured at those RPMS the valves would float.
Could you point me to a thread where they discuss that valve duration and lift is out of whack for 6-7k rpm operation?

It was my understanding that FI would allow the EG to make power clear to a 7k fuel cut. If the valves didn't float that is.

I also read the thread about the remote mount using the GT35R and he doesn't see positive pressure until almost 3700rpm. I'd rather run out of breath a bit sooner, then wait until almost 4,000rpm for boost.