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#16
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Tim 92 Liquid Silver SVX 5MT 2009 BMW Z4 (Gone) 2012 Camry V6 SE |
#17
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Lol I left my camera in Little Egg Harbor so it'll be another couple days before I can post any. Eric does have a few on his camera though.
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1991 SVX L JDM |
#18
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Was that Eric's house you's were at on Monday?
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bLAh
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#19
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nah, that was his mom's place. I was telling you to look for my house on your way home....Pfft, "I always look for svx's" but you past mine twice
the only pictures I have on mine are of me going " Dont take me picture of I" so um..no, not uploadin' them. And your camera is in brigantine But yeah, the car is getting it's other side primed this week. The reason we're doing the bodywork in sections is we really cant get to do it untill the weekends, and Id rather not have bare metal and body filler exposed to any rain (Like it's currently doing) Looks like hopefully this weekend Ill get the primer blocked out, and mike will take care of the odds and ends (sanding mirrors, rear window garnish, ect..) I don't doubt this job will be complete by the pumpkin carve meet
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#20
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hahaha, oh spit, I just had a brain fart lol. I was looking for your house but missed the hospital thing??
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bLAh
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#21
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Update:
The body shop called and notified that the car as it sits is primed.
There are just a few more significant pieces separate from the car which need to be primed before paint, including my cladding, door handles, mirrors, and upper quarter garnishes. After these things have been addressed, the car will be blocked and brought in for paint, which will happen sometime next week, hopefully earlier on in the week. I anticipate driving this car home for the week following, so that I may assemble and detail it with what little spare time I have before the pumpkin carve autox meet.
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1991 SVX L JDM |
#22
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Quick prep ?
So, I'm currently about 1/4 of the way through prepping my baby for paint. I've been sanding everything thus far even if I need to get down to bare metal for filler simply because I'm concerned about what affect the chemical stripper will have on rust resistance properties.
It looks like your front fender is sanded, not stripped, but it looks like it's just about perfectly prepped (through the clearcoat everywhere, some areas through the color (no biggie), and some small areas through the primer (no biggie)). How'd you go about sanding? It's taking me forever to get to that point using a 6" orbital sander w/600 grit paper. The hood took me a couple hours as did the roof.
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#23
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Well, its a complicated process..
Eric could probably explain it better than I can, but here it goes:
-A year ago we randomly decided to sand the right ride of the car (entirely by hand and with a 400 grit paper on a rubber block) Resuming the bodywork, we did some removal of cladding and mouldings, and replaced the driver fender and door. We sanded to feather out chips and remove hard edges. A power sander was used ONLY on the lower cladding pastics to remove paint residue from a chemical stripped which hadn't fallen off entirely. Power sanders WILL leave flat spots in many instances, and handheld paper without a block will leave finger marks. It was also used for removing paint residue after chemically stripping the surface of the hood and trunk (these panels had far too many chips/dings to feather out properly so it was in the interest of a job done proper to strip them to bare metal and start there.) We sanded the car 90% BY HAND with 220grit to cut clearcoat, then 400 grit to smooth the surface. Areas requiring filler were scuffed with 60 grit to bare metal, and filler was applied accordingly. The filler was cut down first with 180 briefly, then 220 then to 400 grit (by hand) After all filled areas were touched up with evercoat as needed and feathered, the car was dropped in for primer. An etching primer was used on the two panels which were taken to bare metal in order to prevent rust. *(not entirely completed step) After coming back from primer, the graystuff was blocked down using 400 and 600 for a resulting smoothness that is apparent when you can see your reflection IN THE PRIMER! More to come.
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1991 SVX L JDM |
#24
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Quote:
Quote:
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#25
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Thanks for the tips. I guess I could've clarified that I'm a bit worried about rust from stripping because I stripped my sunroof and re-painted it (starting with a self etching primer), and now there is a small rusty spot on one of the edges. I live in freakin' AZ and I got rust. I figure that stufff removes everything, including whatever coating Subaru applied to resist rust.
In all honesty, I'll probably continue with just sand paper in most cases, especially since I'm re-painting the original color. But, the tips you gave about grit will be helpful. Who knows, maybe by the time I actually get around to finishing I'll be so sick of sanding that I'll jump over to the dark side and use stripper. So, when can we expect some pics of your finished product? Are you having the shop do any wet-sanding of the finished product, or are you just gonna see how it turns out without that?
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#26
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You need to get this finished Mikey, I'm sick of waiting
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bLAh
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#27
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Hell yeah
lol, waiting on the freakin bodyshop to have an open slot...this SIDE JOB is gonna take up the etire booth for the whole day but bill, of course,you're welcome to come hang out while we pretend to be working vigorously getting the car buttoned up
__________________
R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#28
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Yeah, some side joblol. Yeah I'm sire I'll be hangin out, I mean "working"
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bLAh
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#29
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that is some nice work you got going on!.. i have to do about the same thing to mine. but i also have to replace the entire pass quarter panel. can you pop out the quarter glass just like a front windshiled? i will be replacing the panel with a new one from subaruparts.com i'll be drilling out spot welds for weeks!
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uhh ya it's a subaru |
#30
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Yeah, rear quarters are a major pita The upper rear class can be cut out the same way as the windshield. If memory serves me right, it's prettymuch just urethaned in
__________________
R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
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