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#16
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Try RAYBESTOS PG+ rotors
I got mine (fronts, ventilated) at Rockauto.com delivered for $115 a pair. Interestingly enough the ones listed on their site now indicated they are solid: I would check to make sure because mine surely are ventilated, PN 397 96350.
I'm facinated at the concept that using heavier rotors may well reduce warping since everything you normally read about reducing unsprung weight would lead you to believe that lighter is "always" better... Cheers!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#17
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While I doubt the SVX has warping issues, for a street car heavier rotors are usualy nothing but good.
Past that it depends on your use. AutoX is so easy on brakes it largely doesn't matter. Here light rotors will be best since you are not hard on the brakes for much time at all, and heavy rotors do exact some acceleration/handling penalties. Now for 99.9% of the people in the world the difference will be lost in the noise of driving mistakes on course... but if you approch the whole car and find a 100 things that "won't matter really" and get them done right, you will beat the person who didn't do them by a good bit. Once a year trackdays? yah sure the heavy ones are better coupled with good pads. Frequent trackdays? Er well start looking to brake cooling ducts and whatnot. Given they don't warp the reason for heavy rotors being my preference is you can bleed more energy into them and end up with a lower peak temp. They also can be resurfaced with ease if you do burn through pads quickly, so you don't have to buy new fancy rotors all the time. |
#18
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Rotor Option
I recently replaced all 4 rotors and all the brake pucks on my '92. I did a good bit of research first and found the best warranty from PowerStop (3 years). They are gold anodized and have the factory-type threads for removal.
They cost me $105 each for the fronts; $79 each for the rears. They are drilled only ... I've seen lots of reputable places say that slotting and drilling work against each other. I would NOT buy them on eBay. You don't know who you're dealing with and most have 30 or 90 day warranties. I went with Akebono Pro-ACT pucks and painted the stock calipers while I was at it (for the "Brembo look"). The setup is quiet, smooth and as they wear in the pedal pressure is getting less and less. |
#19
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I have the drilled and slotted rotors from iRotors off ebay. Quite honestly, i am very happy with them. THe pads that they came with, however, are not the greatest. THey produce a LOT of dust. I am considering replacing them with the dust-free ceramic from autozone, at 37$ for the front, 34$ for the rear.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#20
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Quote:
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#21
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There are quite a few users who pointed me in that direction, saying the pads have excelent performance, quality, and life.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#22
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warping rotors
It may sound crazy but I have not had any problems for more than 5 years after switching to cryogenically treated rotors. Go to Frozenrotors.com. They use either Brembo or stock rotors. I did not get cryo treated rears, but had them turned. You can feel warped rears just like the fronts.
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#23
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ART rotors
Installed ART slotted, cryovaced rotors in 2001, 36000 miles ago, just now time for new pads. Akebono ceramic pads produce very little dust and stop me better than metalics that make the best red dust this side of the Rockies
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LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#24
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Akebono ceramics are the pads that I have used the last two times I changed my brakes. I am very happy with them because they stop great and have very very little dust compared to other pads I have used, but If they are contributing to my rotors lasting such a short time they might have to go. I really just need to buy a big bake kit. I was about to a few months back, but I decided to buy a motorcycle instead lol. All in good time I guess
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#25
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Has anyone ever bought brakes from this site http://www.r1concepts.com ? I was just wondering since they sound like they will get the job done and i'm in the market for some new brake rotors and pads. My current rotors are severely warped.
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Ride: 92 SVX LS Dark Teal 2nd 4EAT 170,000k miles (6spd when she dies) RIP: 93 Impreza LS |
#26
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Rotors don't warp. Anyway, I got mine on ebay from raceconcepts.net, and they're still holding up fine.
Before you buy anything, read this link: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml |
#27
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Quote:
Changing fluid every year I have not done, should do.....
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LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#28
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I promise rotors develop thickness variations. I've personally seen this hundreds of different times, and I've heard it from the mouth of the engineers directly. Anyway, how are you guys getting these rotors from raceconcepts for so cheap? It shows 180/set on their website... I'm sick of resurfacing my rotors every 20,000 miles. How badly is pad life shortened by the ones from raceconcepts, does anyone know? I want to use stock pads.
Comments? Reccomendations?
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2007 GS 450h-Active Stabilizer/Radar cruise 1994 L Blue 3.70 VTD ASE Master Automobile ASE Advanced Level Specialist Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician (former life) |
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