Wrx 5 speed cluch. Which one should I run? - Page 4

AFBeefcake · #46 01-05-2007, 06:20 PM

Anyone have any tips on removing the brake booster? I got it unbolted, but I can't get it out. Its like its to big to remove.

benebob · #47 01-05-2007, 08:22 PM

You have it disconnected at the pedal right? If so it'll just pull out with some work.

AFBeefcake · #48 01-05-2007, 08:53 PM

Yes, the master cylinder has been removed the vacuum hose is disconnected, the 4 mounting nut are out, the pedal boxed are out of the car and I removed the connector at the end of the rod to. There just does not seem to be enough room to get it out without removing the AC hose.

benebob · #49 01-06-2007, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFBeefcake

Yes, the master cylinder has been removed the vacuum hose is disconnected, the 4 mounting nut are out, the pedal boxed are out of the car and I removed the connector at the end of the rod to. There just does not seem to be enough room to get it out without removing the AC hose.

Ah, yeah, that might need removed, I didn't have to worry about that when I r&red the one on the racer. You might be able to take off the mounts that hold it to the engine and move gently the hose far enough out of the way.

TomsSVX · #50 01-06-2007, 02:27 PM

you can get it out... its a pita but u can getr it

Tom

AFBeefcake · #51 01-09-2007, 08:14 PM

I got the booster and the transmission out, tonight.

Now I got to get the heal a coil set for the starter bolt and figure out how much I have to cut off the brake booster rod.

Also whats the torque spec for the flywheel and clutch bolts? What size heal a coil do I need for the starter stud?

AFBeefcake · #52 01-11-2007, 06:35 AM

I found the specs I needed. I got the flywheel and clutch installed. I also got the starter stud transferred to the mt trany. I tried to work on the pedals, but I can't figure out where to drill the hole for the master clutch bolts.

AFBeefcake · #53 01-13-2007, 06:38 PM

I got the pedals and the brake booster in tonight. I am having trouble bending the brake lines out of the way of the master cylinder. any Ideas?

SVXRide · #54 01-13-2007, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFBeefcake

I got the pedals and the brake booster in tonight. I am having trouble bending the brake lines out of the way of the master cylinder. any Ideas?

Use a tubing bender and go slowly?
-Bill

TomsSVX · #55 01-14-2007, 10:57 PM

I usually just pull them out of the way... don't yank em because they will bend and crimp, use constant force that is not secluded to one arear and just pull and push them to where they need to be

Tom

AFBeefcake · #56 01-15-2007, 03:33 PM

I'll give it a try again tonight.

AFBeefcake · #57 01-29-2007, 10:20 AM

I got the lines sort out of the way, but I got a new problem. The top of the master cylinder tank hits the fire wall. So there is no way to open the cap to add fluid. I am going to switch to a remote mounted master cylinder tank. I found a master cylinder I had that I think its out of a forester. It has a remote tank on it so, I think I can just switch the tanks and make a bracket to hold it.

GreenMarine · #58 01-29-2007, 10:32 AM

Good to hear that ya got the Exedy clutch. I doubt verymuch that you'll be disapointed

Good Luck with the rest of the swap!! It is well worth it

TomsSVX · #59 01-29-2007, 12:35 PM

the master cylinder tanks are always in the way... It is such a PITA to get to when you fill it, use the best brake fluid you can find so you don't have to do it again for a long long time

Tom

AFBeefcake · #60 01-29-2007, 02:58 PM

Ya, that's why I am going to try and get the remote tank to work. That way I can get to the fluid easy.