Duty Solenoid C?

[AyeJaye]

Is there a how-to document on replacing the duty solenoid C? We just got dumped on here and I've found out the hard way that my car is next to worthless in the snow. I know my tires might be partially to blame (Potenza RE750's with more than enough tread on them), but it feels to me like I'm getting absolutely NO push from the rear end. I've driven AWD cars in the snow for years, and this feels absolutely nothing like what I'm used to.

[edit]Just went out and moved it from in front of the house into the driveway, which required quite a lot of finesse and patience. I think the rear wheels are gripping part of the time, but it still doesn't feel like it should. I'm leaning more towards the tires at this point...

[essveeexxee]

10 characters.

[AyeJaye]

They're not slicks, but they're definitely summer tires. I'm getting some Blizzaks on it as we speak, so we'll have to see how it habdles after that.

[AyeJaye]

It was the tires. Threw a set of Blizzaks on it and its like a whole new beast. Drives just like a Subaru should in the snow

[Mr. Claret]

I agree; it's not your tires. I got brand new Kuhmos and the next morning we got an inch of snow. first turn I made...straight into the curb...as I was expecting AWD. Even went back to the tire shop to tell them they suck. Not only til after I lifted the car off the ground did I notice the AWD wasn't working. Long story short, power light was flashing at start-up, code was for "A" solenoid. Replaced "A", still intermitant AWD but did cure the 3rd gear braking. Before going down a hill in third gear, the engine would sit at idle and not slow the car down at all with transmission braking. Started hearing the constant chatter from the "C" solenoid while driving and ended up replacing that. The constant chatter was from the solenoid not fully opening and closing, or something along that lines. Basically the back side of the solenoid was dry so no fluid was getting to that side. After replacing it AWD worked gracefully. If you have no TCU code or Power light flashing at start-up, just remember that doesn't mean the problem is not electrical, its just not throwing a code. My "C" Solenoids wire had a small slash in it and it wasn't throwing a code, after testing it the ohms were 2 instead of 3. So just keep an eye on that fact. That is my best advice while tackling this.


Sonny

[shelfy]

yay for 92 ebony's in denver with blizzaks!

[AyeJaye]

Well, its handling a million times better now, so I guess for the time being I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

[dcarrb]

I'd think you'd know pretty quick whether or not you were getting power to the rear wheels in snow, 'cos if you weren't, the fronts would be spinning like crazy.

dcb

[paulmeisterpk]

Guy at work has an STi with Potenza RE070s and it will hardly move in the snow. I'd say there probably isn't a problem with your AWD system. Normally if a solenoid C starts to fail, you'll get too much power to the rear, causing binding. If the transfer clutch pack gets burned, that is when you would not get enough power transferred to the rear.

[AyeJaye]

After driving around last night and this morning, I'm firmly convinced it was the tires. Blizzaks ROCK!!! My car handles like its on tank tracks now

[Blacky]

You're still getting hit with snow? Must be a good ski season. We're experiencing an early spring here. They're talking about closing the ski hill on weekdays and opening weekends only. I'm putting my summer tires back on in about a week.

[AyeJaye]

This was actually the first decent snowfall we've had all winter in the Denver metro area. Residents are calling this the winter that wasn't because we were at maybe 20% of our normal snowfall before this storm. Hence the reason I just realized that my Bridgestones are not made for snow driving