alternator wires

[BoxerFanatic]

Anybody know a good source for an insulator cap for the back side of the alternator terminal riser? the flat plastic one, not the domed rubber cap on the top.

My new one didn't come with a cap (and I did go through all of the packing material) and the one on my old alternator didn't fit without being forced, and it was already cracked from heat brittling.

I am headed back to the auto parts store tomorrow, but I somehow doubt they'll have one, but maybe.

Mitsubishi Alternator, and the riser has the letter B embossed on it. I thought about getting another riser, but the new alternator won't let go of it easily.

[svxcess]

Call Christian at Maniac Electric Motors and tell her what you need. She keeps these parts on hand for her rebuilds.

972-557-5768

Tell her John Hoffman suggested you call.






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[svxcess]

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How time flies.

Here is a photo of me doing my third original alternator wiring upgrade of the evening at Lafayette. Lots of help and flashlights.




Looking at the camera is a bleary-eyed "Zeppelin". Don't recall the other person.

All the old farts were in bed long ago...

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[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by svxcess

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How time flies.

Here is a photo of me doing my third original alternator wiring upgrade of the evening at Lafayette. Lots of help and flashlights.




Looking at the camera is a bleary-eyed "Zeppelin". Don't recall the other person.

All the old farts were in bed long ago...


.

Zeppelin; "Dude, This is not your car!"
John;"I like soup!"

John Hoffman;Date of Birth:
August 11th, 1844
Age:
167

[BoxerFanatic]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Call Christian at Maniac Electric Motors and tell her what you need. She keeps these parts on hand for her rebuilds.

That is the part.

I may give them a call, I have been in e-mail communications about the shipment, before it arrived, since that is who my new alternator is from, and I am slightly surprised that it arrived without that cover. Don't want it arcing from that post to the aluminum intake manifold directly behind it.

I have boxed up the old alternator to ship back there tomorrow, as well, for the next person's rebuild.

[svxcess]

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Play nice or else... the poster child for Reading is watching...







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[Gamesy]

white cables are 10AWG damn thats tiny

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

white cables are 10AWG damn thats tiny

That's what I thought. Brand new 10 gauge wires, with no corrosion, shiny terminals and solid, clean connections, may have done the job... TWENTY YEARS AGO!

Years of deterioration, corrosion, andengine heat have taken their toll on its ability to pass current easily and remain physically and electrically intact.

Thats why the original 4 gauge alternator wiring mod, introduced almost 10 years ago, was so effective.


Why do you think it is so easy to jump-start a car with 4 gauge jumper cables? I remember someone with 14-16 gauge cables. Almost worthless -- passed very little current and they .got very hot.


I would suspect our coil pack wires suffer from some of these problems also.


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[Gamesy]

could be, only downside is i have to reuse the connectors from the fuse box, no shop carries them in stock

by the looks of it, i think the wires have been replaced b4 there's just a lot of weird connecting and splicing which in the end all the cables still connect together

[BoxerFanatic]

Finally got the connectors, and the 4AWG 'welding' copper stranded cable, and almost all of the supplies.

Still waiting for the terminal cap, which should be arriving from Maniac soon, and I have to pick up some shrink wrap tubes and retainer loops tomorrow to build the cables.

I think I found another way to mount the fuse holder, as well.

SVXCESS's pictures show that he has a nice optima battery, but no battery tray around it. My car still has the battery tray.

there is a flat area on the engine-facing side of the battery tray, that has enough clearance from the valve cover of the engine. I noticed that a nylon license-plate bolt fits the holder perfectly, and has a flat head for the battery side of the tray. I am thinking that two bolt holes in the battery tray side, and the fuse holder mounts directly to it. And the whole thing can come out of the engine bay, if needed, by taking the battery out as well. The plastic of the battery tray, and the nylon mounting bolts will minimize any possible arc points, as well as insulating the back side of the fuse-holder metal terminal bolts.

Looking forward to completing this project, and having the SVX back on the road. Should have it's new Continental tires mounted early next week as well. Gotta get that thing back up and reliable, because it has to give it's garage space to the Legacy for suspension refitting, and be my daily transport instead.

[svxcess]

I am not sure I like you approach, using the side of the battery tray as a mounting surface.

One of my many considerations for mounting the fuse was in having to change the fuse in less than ideal conditions. In my setup, if the fuse ever needed changing, all I needed to do is pop off the fuse cover and loosen the nuts with a small box-end wrench. In fact the wrench I keep for this purpose is covered in heat shrink tubing , except for the very end. This eliminates the possibility of having any part of the wrench touch any metal ground while installing a new fuse. Even at night everything is easy to see.

I have even lifted the entire fuse holder off of the fuse box and held in in my left hand, while using a socket to remove the fuse.This totally reduces the arcing possibility.


In your configuration, I worry about the ease of changing a fuse when the wrench could accidentally touch any metal (frame, body, valve cover, etc) Working sideways, without a direct line of sight.

If you are mounting it high enough on the battery tray for good access and visibility, and the clearances for your wrench movements are sufficient, that may be different.



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[Gamesy]

i finished up my wiring today and god it was a pain trying to wire 5 10awg wires together lol

SVXcess i tried your idea of mounting off the fuse box but the size of my battery causes an issue, it will interfere with taking the battery in and out. so i'm thinking to mount it on the fender wall between the battery and the fender and is still accessible

[Chuckls]

Did mine as well. Car didn't like it at first.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

i finished up my wiring today and god it was a pain trying to wire 5 10awg wires together lol

svxcess, I tried your idea of mounting off the fuse box but the size of my battery causes an issue, it will interfere with taking the battery in and out. so I'm thinking to mount it on the fender wall between the battery and the fender and is still accessible

Why would it interfere with removing the battery? Were you trying to permanently mount it or use the bracket which just slipped over the edge?

Just disconnect the power wire from the POS battery terminal (Leaving it attached to the MegaFuse holder) and lift off the fuse holder from the fuse box and move it out of the way.

Since the engine is off, there is no current going from the alternator to worry about. You have to remove both battery terminals anyway to remove the battery.

I have done this a few times.

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[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Chuckls

Did mine as well. Car didn't like it at first.

What made it change its mind?

Please give more details.


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