Removing ball joints

[maynardg]

OK, gents. I surrender. We have pounded, beaten, and pried and are ready to quit. The ball joint has moved about 1/2 inch down - and will move no further.

Ideas - other than to invite you to come pick it up? We are trying to pull the transmission for a differential swap - and are totally stuck.

If we cut it or torch it, what does a new one cost?

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by maynardg

OK, gents. I surrender. We have pounded, beaten, and pried and are ready to quit. The ball joint has moved about 1/2 inch down - and will move no further.

Ideas - other than to invite you to come pick it up? We are trying to pull the transmission for a differential swap - and are totally stuck.

If we cut it or torch it, what does a new one cost?

Once the pinch bolt is out on top, hammer a chisel into the narrow gap on the inside of the hub to spread the opening. This will allow the balljoint some room to come out. It helps if you leave the ball joint attached to the control arm and you pull on the assembly.

The ball joints are a dealer item.

Part # 20220PA000, List $82.83, but they can be had for around $65 each from the dealer.

I hope this helps!

[Schralper]

Originally Posted by maynardg

OK, gents. I surrender. We have pounded, beaten, and pried and are ready to quit. The ball joint has moved about 1/2 inch down - and will move no further.

Ideas - other than to invite you to come pick it up? We are trying to pull the transmission for a differential swap - and are totally stuck.

If we cut it or torch it, what does a new one cost?

if you're having this much trouble w/ a ball joint do ya really think ya should be doin a diff swap?

[maynardg]

I have total confidence in my guy.

[maynardg]

OK. My guy got the b-joint off. CV axles came out, 1 with the shaft that should have remained in the diff. Circlip was mangled pretty good. Came easy, so I think it was bad already. Can't wait to see how mangled the inside of the diff is.

So, I'll add $$ to the budget for ball joints.

The adventure continues.

[bheinen74]

he didn't drive the roll pin out of the axle did he. I wish you the best luck on this guy who is working on a poor SVX.
and on the ball joint problem which you say is now fixed, i bet he was not removing the pinch bolt on the knuckle. gee, i hope this car survives

[maynardg]

The car will survive nicely, thank you. We did drive out the roll pins first as well as the pinch bolts which came out easily. One pin was a pain, but finally came out. One side of the car went pretty well, took no more than 20 minutes total. The other has been a bugger from the start. Why it was tough is hard to say. We actually walked away from it a couple weeks ago after lots of effort. The ball joint finally let go and dropped the rest of the way out today after a couple of hours for reasons unknown.

I've done a lot of repair work on cars over the past 30 years - most anything that does not require a machine shop. And my guy is my son, who is a pro, very well trained and qualified - and far more flexible under the car than I.

This car will be fine.

[Mike621]

Good to hear of a father/son duo working on these cars.

You don't see that as often these days.

I think the other members are quick to jump to conclusions because we see so many of these cars ruined by lack of patience, and the lack of proper training and proper tools.

If you have any further questions, just ask.

[bheinen74]

wow i jumped to conclusions...sorry
Was the Driver side the troublesome side by chance?

[maynardg]

Yes, and you knew that how???

[bheinen74]

I have owned many subarus, still have like 5 of them, and about 4 of 10 of the axles i have done, the driver side gave problems, never had problem on passenger side.

Originally Posted by maynardg

Yes, and you knew that how???

[RoughSilver92]

If removing the axle was all you were trying to do the ball joint unbolts from the control arm with 3 17mm socket and wrench allowing the knuckle to be pulled out of the way. No need to remove from the knuckle.