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#32
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My guess is the key had just become soft somehow. Hey, about that secret 'sweet spot' you were talkin about, I know exactly where mine is. I think I tried explaining it like last year or something but it didn't really fly around here. You found the secret to a good hard launch though. Punch it all the way when you hit about 20mph. ;) I failed to utilize it when I ran so my 60' times were weak. *shrug*
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#33
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don't it suck that a 2.77$ part can screw up like 2-300$ worth of parts when it goes bad. that's life in the svx world though i guess. |
#34
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Keys malform or shear for three reasons - 1) the center bolt was loose, or 2) the slot in the shaft or pulley was damaged, or 3) extreme excessive torque was applied. Metal doesn't 'go soft' without extreme heat applied. If that level of heat was present at that point there would first be damage to something else, way more obvious, before the key failed. In this case the pulley is softer than the key, which is softer than the crank. This is a good thing as the pulley and key are waaayyy easier to repair than the crank.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#35
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If the metal outer ring was allowed to vibrate, because of a deteriorating rubber insulator, then the whipping action, of the heavy, outer ring, would be transferred to the inner metal ring, attached to the crankshaft.
If the bolt holding the 5#+ pulley loosened, then the whole assembly would beat itself back and forth, hammering the key. I never use Locktight (blue) on my crank pulley bolt, but you might.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#36
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Torsional Harmonics at work.
When the bolt is loose, the crankshafts torsional harmonics, that the damper is there to resist, are let loose to work the key, the same way they work the crank to crack it.
Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#37
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#38
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got an e-mail today from dhl and my sprocket will be here today. i'll let you all know how it goes.
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#39
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it's up and running everything worked out pretty good and went together fairly easy. she's running like a top again other than needing the pre cats replaced. they stunk real good today and the car is feeling held back so i'll take care of them next week. no more pulley wobble and it runs much smoother now. my steering is better now too cause i found a plug off the power steering line right off the resevoir that was disconnected for some reason. why did the former owners unhook so many things???? the alarm, the power steering, and the wires to the vanity lights on my sunvisors are cut too. what else will i find unhooked? couldn't be much more as everything works now.hopefully thanks for all the help guys and for helping me keep my head up on this very hard week. Jason
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#40
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I recently found the wires to my vanity lights in the visors cut as well, but I figured it was because the originals sagged and were replaced, only to sag again, which is why I was looking at them.
__________________
"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#41
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#42
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I think a swiveling lock dealy would be great. That's what I'm looking into.
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#43
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#44
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Visor Fix
In the "how-to" section on here, there is a quick, cheap visor fix that you can perform for about $5. I havent found the time to do it yet, but I will be soon. In the mean time, my solution was to take a simple wire coat hanger, cut some pieces off of it, and bend it with some pliers into a shape that fits under the window trim, bends down to support the visor, and then back up to keep it flush agaisnt the visor. Ill take some pics and post them later. It makes the visors a pain in the ass the move up and down, but it works, and wont fail.
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#45
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ok now heres the next question. why do the marks on my timing belt change there position? i put the belt on and lined up the marks and after i started it and shut it off the marks on the belt were way ahead of the marks on the cam and crank but all the timing marks on crank and cams are still properly lined up. i retimed it today cause it didn't seem right and that's when i discovered this. it just seems weak now for some reason and i'm trying to figure out why before race day. like i said all the marks are lined up on the cams and crank and it sounds like it's right now, but it just feels weak and that belt thing kinda threw me. how bout it beav? got a little explanation? thanks, Jason
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