main&rod bearings

[Budfreak]

how hard is it to replace the main and rod bearings? it looks like it could be done with the engine in the car. the knock i've had when cold is sounding louder and i'm really thinking i need to do the bearings. anyone know a place to get a good price on them?

[Beav]

The engine has to be removed and completely disassembled and the case split to replace the bearings, not a job for the faint of heart.

[GreenMarine]

I was gonna say on a scale of 1 - 5.... You're looking at about a 5.... That's probably almost as hard as it is gonna get... taking the engine out, splitting it open, replacing the bearings and putting it all back together again so that it will run again... Definitly possible.... But with the engine open, you will need to take certian precautions so as to not damage any of the internals...

[Budfreak]

well, i guess i just drive her till she dies then. i can't possibly afford to get it fixed and i have nowhere and no time to do it myself. i'll just worry about my pulley and keep the oil change but i'm pretty sure it's a bearing going bad so my time as an svx owner may be limited now.

[dcarrb]

Be on the lookout for a low-mileage, salvage engine. My guess is a transplant would cost considerably less than a teardown/overhaul. You could keep the old motor and work on it as time and funds become available.

You're sure you're not just hearing that lopsided crank pulley hitting the timing belt cover?

dcb

[benebob]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Be on the lookout for a low-mileage, salvage engine. My guess is a transplant would cost considerably less than a teardown/overhaul. You could keep the old motor and work on it as time and funds become available.

You're sure you're not just hearing that lopsided crank pulley hitting the timing belt cover?

dcb

Ah throw some valve medic in it and turn up the radio. Oh yeah when the old is out send it to Dave and I and it'll get rebuilt into a NA 300hp engine that you can brag to your friends about (granted it'll be in our race car then) .

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Be on the lookout for a low-mileage, salvage engine. My guess is a transplant would cost considerably less than a teardown/overhaul. You could keep the old motor and work on it as time and funds become available.

You're sure you're not just hearing that lopsided crank pulley hitting the timing belt cover?

dcb

yes i'm pretty sure. i was laying underneath it yesterday and could hear it pretty good. from the top of the engine it sounds like the knock is in the back of the engine. i figure that pulley being like that has probally put alot of stress on the back bearings and there failing. i'm searching for a pulley now although i can't afford one for 3 more weeks.

BTW, the knock goes away or just gets really quiet as i think i detect it every now and again when it's warmed up all the way and been driving a few miles.

[svxfiles]

What pulley are you looking for, AND are you sure it's not a cracked flywheel?

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

What pulley are you looking for, AND are you sure it's not a cracked flywheel?

no i haven't had a chance to check the flywheel but i will as soon as possible. i need a crank pulley.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by budfreak1

no i haven't had a chance to check the flywheel but i will as soon as possible. i need a crank pulley.

Do you want stock, or underdrive?
If you think you are having crankshaft issues, I'd stick with a stock vibration dampener.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

Do you want stock, or underdrive?

i'd prefer underdrive. how much do you want for either one?

[Budfreak]

took care of the whole pulley thing.(thanks tom!) i'm gonna check my torque converter bolts and make sure there tight and if they are then the problem will have to continue till something shows it's ugly head i'm gonna try a heavier oil when i change it next and see what happens too. any other suggestions are welcome. thanks

[Beav]

Cracked flexplates are more common than bad bearings. Main bearings sound like a thud and rod bearings usually make noise around 1500-2000 rpm and slightly decellerating. Rods are a kind of rapping noise, flexplates clatter at idle or just above, generally.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by Beav

Cracked flexplates are more common than bad bearings. Main bearings sound like a thud and rod bearings usually make noise around 1500-2000 rpm and slightly decellerating. Rods are a kind of rapping noise, flexplates clatter at idle or just above, generally.

yes, i discussed this with svxfiles and i have no way to move that tranny to check but i will check the torque converter bolts.i'm not to terribly worried since it's done it since i got it but i'd still like to figure out what it is so i know whether i'm facing impending doom or not.i won't complain a whole lot if the flexplate breaks but i'll cry like a little girl if it throws a rod threw the block it makes the most noticable noise when started cold and the idle hits 1250. then the noise begins and it does it till warmed up.i'm also thinking my knock sensors are picking it up cause it has no power at all till it gets warmed up and the noise goes away then it's pretty much zoooommmm! business as usual(except for some stinky pre cats). the pre cats will go away in a few weeks when i bypass them with some adapters and pipes from advanceauto.

[Beav]

Are you sure the oil isn't overfull? It is a boxer engine, you know. (A pat on the back to those that understand how that would come into play here.)

p.s. Mine also thunks a bit when cold. Just let it warm up a bit.