Centre Differential

Harvey,
The black machine is currently with the local agent to have a driveshaft replaced. Whilst I was there I talked to them about 'solenoid C' etc. and it was as if I was speaking Klingon. They clearly weren't keen on taking the gearbox apart and were referring me to a gearbox specialist that they have used in the past. Given that the gearbox is working fine apart from the locking up, it seems daft to have it rebuilt, so I am keen to try out your idea as it does make a lot of sense. I can see that the biggest problems are going to be to explain what needs to be done to the gearbox specialist and to find the part numbers for the replacement valve and clutch plates. I have seen the page from the workshop manual that relates to this area in your locker, but it does seem to lack detail. Is there any more information available about what needs to be done? Secondly, do you have any idea of the part numbers for he replacement bits that I will need?
Thanks very much for your support so far.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Blackbir2001

Harvey,
The black machine is currently with the local agent to have a driveshaft replaced. Whilst I was there I talked to them about 'solenoid C' etc. and it was as if I was speaking Klingon. They clearly weren't keen on taking the gearbox apart and were referring me to a gearbox specialist that they have used in the past. Given that the gearbox is working fine apart from the locking up, it seems daft to have it rebuilt, so I am keen to try out your idea as it does make a lot of sense. I can see that the biggest problems are going to be to explain what needs to be done to the gearbox specialist and to find the part numbers for the replacement valve and clutch plates. I have seen the page from the workshop manual that relates to this area in your locker, but it does seem to lack detail. Is there any more information available about what needs to be done? Secondly, do you have any idea of the part numbers for he replacement bits that I will need?
Thanks very much for your support so far.

Hi Dave, we had a member here in Aust that had the same problems. You can search the threads. "Binding" under the user name "Amuse".

This is a bit about the parts and price here in Aust.

... ok I just spoke to my friendly Subaru dealer/service center again.

Here's the deal - they quote just one part called the "Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly" (part # SU31942AA051 - note the last two digits are different?). This part consists of both the Duty Solenoid, the Valve, the Clutch plate and various gaskets apparently. None of it means much to me unfortunately...
The price is AUD$190.25 plus 2-3hrs labour (approx. AUD$150) - so that's about US$200 all up. Not too bad i guess...

Pete also replaced the clutch plates, cost A$250 extra.

The parts are different to the US model, so buy them from the UK dealer.

I just realised that I left out the how part. To do the job, the drive shaft out, support the box, remove the rear housing, be carfull of the C solenoid wire that runs between the two sections, unplug it, and remove the case, with the C solenoid/valve assemble attached. If the clutch plates need replacing they can be replaced at the same time. Fit a new gasket, replace the rear housing, ensuring that the solenoid wire is not stuck between the faces.

Harvey.

Phil, Harvey,

Sorry for the delay in updating this thread. I have now had the other driveshaft replaced and there is no change. The old driveshaft was clicking and the clicking has now gone, so that is an improvement. But, the binding is still there. If I put the centre diff fuse in, it makes no difference at all, so I can only assume that it is the valve as you suggested Harvey. My next move is to chase the local Subaru dealer to see if they can provide the kit of parts to replace the valve and the solenoid and then find someone to fit them. I will update this thread when I have more information.

The local Subaru agent recognises the part number and can supply it. But, it has to come from Japan so there is a six week delay. I have realised there is one further check I can do. I still have the grey SVX, so I will put the diff lock fuse in that machine and see if it demonstrates the same symptoms. If so, that is pretty conclusive. Then I can find someone to fit the part and we're in business.

Phil, Harvey,
I have now done more tests on both the black and the grey machines. Putting the diff lock fuse in the black machine makes no difference at all. Putting the diff lock fuse in the grey machine causes exactly the same symptoms. So, it is clearly the centre diff that is the problem. I will now find someone who is prepared to fit the parts. The local Subaru dealer has pointed me to a company called Crucial Automatics, so I will go and talk to them.

Dave

Harvey,
Is there any possibility that this could be an electrical fault i.e. a short in the system that is activating the solenoid? Or, would that show up in the diagnostics? Any way that I could determine if this is electrical rather than mechanical?
Dave

[svxistentialist]

Dave, as Harvey said a while back in the thread, if it is not showing a code, the likelihood is, it's a physical problem, the clutch binding.

You should follow the instructions for checking the codes. Don't forget to drive the car first to bring the atf oil up to temperature in the box [I suspect this instruction is so that the temp sensor in the box is in the correct working range when the test is run]

I think if it doesn't show a code, it's a fair bet that the LSD clutch is binding.

BTW, and you probably know this, no code is when the POWER light stays blinking consistently, at 2 Hz if memory serves.

Best of luck,

Joe

Harvey, Joe,
no codes showing - the Power light just flashes continually. So, I will go back to the local gearbox people and arrange to have the centre clutch etc replaced. The major problem will be the six week lead time on the parts!
Dave
P.S. I now appear to have problems with the 4WS. Do you know of any diagnostics for that?

[svxistentialist]

Hi Dave

No codes probably means the clutch is toast. Proceed as discussed previously.

4WS codes. I don't have them, but it will be possible to get them. I actually remember recently when trawling through lockers looking for info on my Speed sensor 2 problem, coming across info on 4WS in some US lockers, which surprised me, considering once upon a Yahoo time, it caused a flame war to even suggest 4WS existed!!

First port of call, search for posts by Earthworm, he has a great site with loads of info, might have been in his material I saw it.

Next, if Harvey has the Oz manual, it's possible it may be shown in that. I don't think the 4WS model was ever sold in Australia/NZ, but the manual may be a direct translation of the JDM one, in which case.......

Last, look up Jamsvx, see if the info is on his site. James put up loads of info on the 4WS thing, just to prove to our American friends it existed.

If you don't find it in one of these Dave, get back to us. The info is out there OK.

Joe

[b3lha]

4WS Troubleshooting...

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11521

Good Luck.

Phil.

[Earthworm]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

First port of call, search for posts by Earthworm, he has a great site with loads of info, might have been in his material I saw it.

Yes they are in the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/

Thanks to all - now the light has gone out. But I will still check it to see what has been stored. It's really great to be able to access all of this diagnostic information, and even better to obtain help from such knowledgeable guys.

[Nobody]

Hi there, as I am currently working on the same problem, I found out that pn Harvey posted is only for selenoid no other stuff! There are several other options, different clutch sizes etc. It is not easy to find out right parts. It has to be removed definitely and than decide what cluch plates use and other stuff inside. All that I was told by my Subaru dealer who will do the job for me. So if you are going to replace it, you will need to order the seleniod definitely, than remove the stuff and check it in what shape it is. The whole set is offered only for Forester.
Petr

Petr,
that's interesting. I went to see my local Subaru dealer this morning to order the part, and all that he could tell me was that it was a 'Transfer Valve'. He was unable (maybe just unwilling) to try and see if it was one part, or three parts or anything else. So, I decided to order the part anyway and let's see what arrives. Once I have it/them I can decide how to proceed. The major problem from my point of view is that the lead time is 6 to 8 weeks. If it isn't everything that I need, the car could be off the road for a long time!

[Nobody]

It is just one part - selenoid, which means transfer valve, no other stuff. I have similar problems like you on sharp turns with someting strange metal noise when pressing gas padal too much (seems it has problem to transfer power from front to rear wheels, looks like clutch plates are almost gone). I am still on the road but sharp turning very carefully and very slow. As I use my car only on weekends hope there will not be any other problem (front diff). I will keep posting how it goes, local dealer ordered this transfer valve on tuesday but I do not hope they will have it on central stock in Germany and 3 weeks will take it from Japan as you are writting.
Petr