Rotors For 92' SVX

I am wondering if anyone has input on what type of rotors to install on my 92' SVX. I am considering Brembo or Bradi. They are available plain, drilled, slotted or drilled and slotted. Due to the reported issue of front rotors warping I do not want to install a rotor that may be even more susceptable to warping. I am wondering what the real scoop is on this drilling and slotting business. Some people claim it is nonsense and may actually contribute to loss of braking surface, increased pad wear and weakening of the rotors. Others frequently quote the theory that hot gasses can escape throught the slots and holes thus preventing brake fade during hard braking. I will not be racing this car. Brake manufacturing insiders seem to fall more into the "This is all marketing" camp. Info on experiences with various rotors/pads would be appreciated.

[immortal_suby]

I got slotted and cad plated bradis on ebay from rotors direct for front and rear. Many high speed stops later they have not warped.
They sell them slotted and drilled, I called them after winning the auction and asked for slotted only and it was no problem.

I won't try to get into the whole slotted vs. drilled vs. stock debate. I will tell you I can stop fast when I have to. These rotors save me from myself again and again.

[James Scott]

I've had drilled rotors in front for ~ 2 years. I got them (Manufactured in Canada, name?) because my brake pedal was shaking on braking. I failed to notice that the steering wheel wasn't! When I mounted them, no improvement!? They cost $200 each! It was the rears! I've replaced the rears twice now (in 2 1/2 years), recently with drilled (Brembo?) rear rotors from Dayle at Motorsport-SVX.com. I have Akebono cermamic pads in back, but when braking makes hissing sound that noone can explain (?)!

I recently rebuilt calipers with seals/booties all around. At that time (about 10/03), I installed the above rear parts, plus stainless steel brake lines all around, plus turned the front drilled rotors and installed "Green Stuff" pads there! My braking is now about 50% BETTER in my humble subjective opinion. [I think that they advertise the "Green Stuff" pads to be low residue >> FORGET THAT! The rims are dirty all the time, BUT I LOVE MY BRAKING EFFICIENCY!]

HOWEVER, recently (fairly soon after turning front rotors) the steering wheel started the shimmy! &#*@&% IT! I swapped my stock front rotors (I didn't NEED to take off in the first place) with the warped drilled rotors. Now it works good (except hiss in back and why the front rotors warped??)

Now, to answer YOUR QUESTION! I like the concept of drilled or slotted rotors, period! They have to help in the rain to avoid fade from the liquid (hydraulic) interference! I think they help with the cooling challenge too (more than they cause loss of braking surface!) >> I know this because I said so!! LOL! I wonder if the front drilled rotors finally warped (right after turning tho!) because the brakes are more efficient now? >> (SS lines, Green pads, rebuild) I mean the rotors are getting more pressure or at least more friction from the SS lines and new (premium) pads (and possibly from rebuild (?)! They have to be, because I'm stopping faster now!!!

Well, I hope you got something from this rambling presentation!

[ensteele]

I have slotted / dimple drilled, and slotted drilled on two of my cars now. Both have the ss brake lines. Both cars stop better than before.

One thing that is very important to do is make sure the torque is the same on all of the nuts all of the way around. If not, you will find the rotors will warp, or at least seem warped.

[Hangtownsvx]

I tried the drilled rotors with no improvement in warping. I took them off and installed Frozenrotors.com . They have been cryogenicly treated. Shake was gone and still good after 3 years. By using a dial indicator, I also found a little bit of warp in the rear rotors could be felt as well. On the rear, I just turned the stock ones down. If you do a lot of research, you will find that drilled rotors can't help warping. They have their place, but not for warping cures. Stock pads have also worked better than the green stuff for me. Too bad they are so expensive.

HangtownSVX,

What was your experience with the green pads? I just bought a set. Hope they will work O.K.

[Hangtownsvx]

green pads gave a slight amount of squeal not present with the stock ones.

[James Scott]

DIRTY!

[svxfiles]

I got my slotted dimpled plated front rotors, stainless lines, and ???pads from Raceconcepts (part #s; rsub06,sub1010,d438/333, and (rear)d1186) on 8-5-02, for $302.28, and the change was fantastic! Stopping very hard was almost as much fun as going fast. The pads have never left any residue, there is no sponginess, after 20,000 miles or so I'm still pleased, and there is pad left. Now that I've thought about it, tonight I'm ordering lines and pads for Dianas,svx to go with her as yet uninstalled drilled rotors. Tom

p.s. the perforated rotors do make a hissing sound.

Thanks for all the input everybody.

[AFBeefcake]

I got KVR cross drilled rotors with carbon fiber pads and SS lines all the way around. Stops great and no warping after 1.5 years.

I got them from here.


http://www.pureperf.com/

I paid $646.00 with shipping for the rotors(with Cad plated and crossdrilled) and pads.