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  #1  
Old 10-18-2011, 03:33 AM
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BRADY BRADY is offline
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Location: East Maitland, NSW, Australia
Posts: 460
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Question Please help! Need advice.

Hello all!

I just picked up my SVX from Regal Subaru. They inspected my baby from head to toe. They have emailed me a list of things they have found wrong with her and I need your advice on how to handle what needs to be done.

I have attached the PDF of the report, but I shall try to extract some of the info to put here:

VEHICLE INSPECTION:
battery test - passed but recommend recharge
knock in front end also metallic noise on lhf during turns
transmission slightly clunky on gearshifts
very slight freeplay in steering noted
Comments
FRONT SWAY BAR LINKS & SWAY BAR 'D' BUSHES WORN OUT AND OIL
AFFECTED RECOMMEND REPLACING TO REPAIR KNOCK
rear struts leaking excessively - recommend replacing
REAR SWAYBAR 'D' BUSHES WORN
lhf uter cv boot split inspected joint and confirmed excessively
worn recommend replacment driveshaft to repair - most likely
concern of metallic noise on turns
FRONT BRAKE PADS VERY GOOD
REAR BRAKE PADS WORN OUT RECOMMEND REPLACING
FRONT ROTORS 26.3MM MINIMUM THICKNESS 26MM - UNABLE TO MACHINE
oil leak - both tappet covers,both breather boxes on top of tappet
covers
possible camseals and /or oil pump / front crank leaks from
behind timing covers
possible rear main/sump leak
TIGHTENED OIL COOLER LINE FOR AUTO TRANSMISSION
bottom radiator hose weeping
INSPECTED FREEPLAY IN STEERING RACK - NO MOVEMENT
TESTED AT STEERING WHEEL - FEELS LIKE STEERING COLUMN LACKING
LUBRICATION
a/c belt starting to crack on ribs
-......................
RESET ENGINE & TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULES - MAY HELP
DRIVEABILITY WITH TRANSMISSION SHIFTING - AUTO OIL CHANGE WILL
ALSO HELP
RECOMMEND BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, COOLANT CHANGE
HAS MAJOR SERVICE BEEN CARRIED OUT ??
VEHICLE IS FITTED WITH A TIMING BELT - MAY BE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT
AIR CONDITIONING NOT EFFICIENT - RECOMMEND LEAK TEST AND REPAIR
DEGREASED ENGINE BAY AND UNDER VEHICLE
TOPPED UP FUEL TO ROAD TEST
UNABLE TO MEASURE RUN OUT ON REAR BRAKE ROTORS,FRT NOT ABLE TO
BE MACHINED, SUSPECT REAR ROTORS AT MINIMUM THICKNESS



OK. So what should I do first? I am not presently made of money, so I need to get the work done in stages.

I thank you kindly in advance for any advice!!

Mike
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ServiceInvoice_SRCRR151651.pdf (195.2 KB, 251 views)
__________________
1992 SVX Mica Red/Black (Ruby Pearl) (ADM)- 290,000 kms. With Koni adjustable front shocks, THRICE o/hauled 4EAT with transmission cooler and now the 'QUICK CHANGE' unit, custom PWR aluminium radiator, replacement water pump, fuel pump, crank pulley, Pioneer 6 x 9 rear and 6 inch front speakers, Sony Head unit, rattles from the front end and steering, front DBA slotted rotors. Blown heater core, ruined CV joints, new car park damage. FOR SALE... www.thebeatleboys.com
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2011, 05:23 AM
aust92pearl aust92pearl is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: austalia
Posts: 842
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Re: Please help! Need advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADY View Post
Hello all!

I just picked up my SVX from Regal Subaru. They inspected my baby from head to toe. They have emailed me a list of things they have found wrong with her and I need your advice on how to handle what needs to be done.

I have attached the PDF of the report, but I shall try to extract some of the info to put here:

VEHICLE INSPECTION:
battery test - passed but recommend recharge
knock in front end also metallic noise on lhf during turns
transmission slightly clunky on gearshifts
very slight freeplay in steering noted
Comments
FRONT SWAY BAR LINKS & SWAY BAR 'D' BUSHES WORN OUT AND OIL
AFFECTED RECOMMEND REPLACING TO REPAIR KNOCK
rear struts leaking excessively - recommend replacing
REAR SWAYBAR 'D' BUSHES WORN
lhf uter cv boot split inspected joint and confirmed excessively
worn recommend replacment driveshaft to repair - most likely
concern of metallic noise on turns
FRONT BRAKE PADS VERY GOOD
REAR BRAKE PADS WORN OUT RECOMMEND REPLACING
FRONT ROTORS 26.3MM MINIMUM THICKNESS 26MM - UNABLE TO MACHINE
oil leak - both tappet covers,both breather boxes on top of tappet
covers
possible camseals and /or oil pump / front crank leaks from
behind timing covers
possible rear main/sump leak
TIGHTENED OIL COOLER LINE FOR AUTO TRANSMISSION
bottom radiator hose weeping
INSPECTED FREEPLAY IN STEERING RACK - NO MOVEMENT
TESTED AT STEERING WHEEL - FEELS LIKE STEERING COLUMN LACKING
LUBRICATION
a/c belt starting to crack on ribs
-......................
RESET ENGINE & TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULES - MAY HELP
DRIVEABILITY WITH TRANSMISSION SHIFTING - AUTO OIL CHANGE WILL
ALSO HELP
RECOMMEND BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, COOLANT CHANGE
HAS MAJOR SERVICE BEEN CARRIED OUT ??
VEHICLE IS FITTED WITH A TIMING BELT - MAY BE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT
AIR CONDITIONING NOT EFFICIENT - RECOMMEND LEAK TEST AND REPAIR
DEGREASED ENGINE BAY AND UNDER VEHICLE
TOPPED UP FUEL TO ROAD TEST
UNABLE TO MEASURE RUN OUT ON REAR BRAKE ROTORS,FRT NOT ABLE TO
BE MACHINED, SUSPECT REAR ROTORS AT MINIMUM THICKNESS



OK. So what should I do first? I am not presently made of money, so I need to get the work done in stages.

I thank you kindly in advance for any advice!!

Mike
1.fluid changes
2. rotors+pads
3. whichever you can afford to next
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2011, 07:50 AM
BRADY's Avatar
BRADY BRADY is offline
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Location: East Maitland, NSW, Australia
Posts: 460
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Re: Please help! Need advice.

Thanks. That will be a good start. I will let you know how I go getting parts.
__________________
1992 SVX Mica Red/Black (Ruby Pearl) (ADM)- 290,000 kms. With Koni adjustable front shocks, THRICE o/hauled 4EAT with transmission cooler and now the 'QUICK CHANGE' unit, custom PWR aluminium radiator, replacement water pump, fuel pump, crank pulley, Pioneer 6 x 9 rear and 6 inch front speakers, Sony Head unit, rattles from the front end and steering, front DBA slotted rotors. Blown heater core, ruined CV joints, new car park damage. FOR SALE... www.thebeatleboys.com
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2011, 07:59 AM
aust92pearl aust92pearl is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: austalia
Posts: 842
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Re: Please help! Need advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADY View Post
Thanks. That will be a good start. I will let you know how I go getting parts.
no worries

i think you will find a lot of the parts (like 97% ) you will have to source from the US
and if you get them sent all in one package you will actually save probably near 1/3rd of the cost of getting them from subaru aust
im sure there will be a few members there willing to help you find them
and as for the brushes,
theres a polish company that makes some just search for "polish brushes"
that should find the thread on them
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2011, 01:47 PM
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SURTEESS SURTEESS is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 1,421
Cool Re: Please help! Need advice.

http://www.strongflex.vot.pl/index.php

I bought the whole set, hopefully this Xmas (our summer) I will fit them all & also the Koni inserts front & back.

Steve in NZ
(plate number - 1 OF 1)
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  #6  
Old 10-24-2011, 05:24 AM
1986nate 1986nate is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Meadville, PA-but I'll still travel
Posts: 4,672
Registered SVX
Re: Please help! Need advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADY View Post
Hello all!

I just picked up my SVX from Regal Subaru. They inspected my baby from head to toe. They have emailed me a list of things they have found wrong with her and I need your advice on how to handle what needs to be done.

I have attached the PDF of the report, but I shall try to extract some of the info to put here:

VEHICLE INSPECTION:
battery test - passed but recommend recharge
Personally, worry about it when it is fully dead, perhaps get a "battery tender" as you are out on the road often
knock in front end also metallic noise on lhf during turns
transmission slightly clunky on gearshifts
very slight freeplay in steering noted
Comments
FRONT SWAY BAR LINKS & SWAY BAR 'D' BUSHES WORN OUT AND OIL
AFFECTED RECOMMEND REPLACING TO REPAIR KNOCK
The amount of labor on this shouldn't be too bad. Bushings should also be relatively inexpensive. The links however are only available OEM if I remember correctly
rear struts leaking excessively - recommend replacing
Pretty typical SVX problem. Will affect the ride and handling but if you drive it "normally" and not like a race car, these can wait. If you can, I would recommend saving up for some Koni's or if there is another "aftermarket" option down there, I would spring for those as opposed to the OEM struts
REAR SWAYBAR 'D' BUSHES WORN
Again, should be an aftermarket option for the bushings and labor should be relatively low
lhf uter cv boot split inspected joint and confirmed excessively
worn recommend replacment driveshaft to repair - most likely
concern of metallic noise on turns
If it is clicking around turns, I would recommend replacing. Is also probably the main cause of noises when going around corners as opposed to the end links and bushings up front
FRONT BRAKE PADS VERY GOOD
REAR BRAKE PADS WORN OUT RECOMMEND REPLACING
FRONT ROTORS 26.3MM MINIMUM THICKNESS 26MM - UNABLE TO MACHINE
If the front pads are good, the rotors should be fine unless they are warped significantly-Strong vibration only under braking conditions, would be worst at higher speeds
oil leak - both tappet covers,both breather boxes on top of tappet
covers
Pretty typical at this point in it's life. Get done when you can, but I would worry about other problems first
possible camseals and /or oil pump / front crank leaks from
behind timing covers
Again, fairly typical at this point. Can wait until other things are taken care of. When this is done, make sure the water pump and thermostat are also changed. Cam/crank seals, timing belt, check the idlers, etc
possible rear main/sump leak
Don't worry about this at all unless the transmission needs to be pulled for some reason. Excessive labor costs for about a $15 seal
TIGHTENED OIL COOLER LINE FOR AUTO TRANSMISSION
bottom radiator hose weeping
This may just be a new hose, or possibly signs of the water pump leaking. Try replacing the hose first (cheap) and see if it stops leaking
INSPECTED FREEPLAY IN STEERING RACK - NO MOVEMENT
TESTED AT STEERING WHEEL - FEELS LIKE STEERING COLUMN LACKING
LUBRICATION
The u-joint is probably developing some wear. I wouldn't worry about it too much at this point
a/c belt starting to crack on ribs
replace the belt, cheap and easy
-......................
RESET ENGINE & TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULES - MAY HELP
you can do this yourself, just unplug the battery overnight
DRIVEABILITY WITH TRANSMISSION SHIFTING - AUTO OIL CHANGE WILL
ALSO HELP
Probably a good idea. Change the fluid and filter
RECOMMEND BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, COOLANT CHANGE
Probably also a good idea. Wait on the coolant change until you do the water pump since it will basically be done then
HAS MAJOR SERVICE BEEN CARRIED OUT ??
They're referring to the timing belt, water pump, etc
VEHICLE IS FITTED WITH A TIMING BELT - MAY BE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT
as I said above, do with the water pump, cam/crank seals, etc. Non interference, so if belt breaks, no engine damage will occur. It will just leave you broken down on the side of the road and not restart
AIR CONDITIONING NOT EFFICIENT - RECOMMEND LEAK TEST AND REPAIR
Probably new o-rings on all the lines and a recharge. Should be good after that
DEGREASED ENGINE BAY AND UNDER VEHICLE
TOPPED UP FUEL TO ROAD TEST
UNABLE TO MEASURE RUN OUT ON REAR BRAKE ROTORS,FRT NOT ABLE TO
BE MACHINED, SUSPECT REAR ROTORS AT MINIMUM THICKNESS
Brakes aren't too expensive and relatively easy to replace. Not sure how much time you have to work on your own car, but there are many here who can help you along with some of the more simple repairs if you do have a bit of spare time



OK. So what should I do first? I am not presently made of money, so I need to get the work done in stages.

I thank you kindly in advance for any advice!!

Mike
a bit of info in red above. I didn't really say exactly what should be done asap. More or less just mentioned the ones that can wait a bit longer. Not sure what your budget is, or what labor and parts prices are there.
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