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#1
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Powersteering pump...... (Question)
What would cause one to fail?? I have been going through accessory belts like crazy lately... The belt squeals almost everytime on start up and whenever I turn the steering wheel... The belt is tight, I check it regularly....
What's this "O-Ring" in the PS Pump? Is that the thing that fails in the pump most often?? How much do pumps usually go for? Is it worth trying to replace the o-ring first before replacing the pump? Anyone who has done both know the average prices for parts? I'm pretty sure that I could do all the labor...
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... Last edited by GreenMarine; 06-10-2006 at 08:08 AM. |
#2
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First, make sure the belt is not TOO tight and that there is ample fluid.
When my pump went out, I bought a replacement on ebay and it was a fairly straightforward install. Just make sure to get all of the old fluid out first using a turkey baster to suck it out, then run the car, and repeat a few times. The oring is between the resivor and the pump. Try that first if you want since orings are so cheap. If that doesnt work, buy a pump on ebay and then put that new oring on there, and install the pump. |
#3
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Is it the belt thats squealing or the actual pump? If it's the belt then I don't think the O-ring is going to make much of a difference, but its worth a shot. Make sure you don't have the belt too tight, and once the belt starts to squeal if you don't stop it right away the friction will create a glaze on it and its always going to squeal. Expect to pay about $75-$100 for a used pump.
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 |
#4
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Is it common for a powersteering pump to go out in 100,000 miles?
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#5
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Quote:
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 |
#6
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Do ya reckon that if the fluid just sits in the pump for about 2 years that it could go back and damage the pump? The motor is out of a car that was wrecked... It had been sitting for about 2 years when I got the engine... That is really the only thing that I can think of...
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#7
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is there a tennsioner <SP?> pully, i cant rember my car is outside and im being lazy!...mabie that is going out?
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---Travis--- |
#8
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Yeah... thought about that too... .... Possibly I could replace that, drain the PS and replace the fluid with some new fresh stuff... See where that puts me... If that isn't it then I guess it is the pump... Would this be an accurate asumption?
I've already replaced the Alternator 2 times to see if that was the problem... But no effect... So that rules it out... Only leaves the tensioner and the PS pump...
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#9
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Definitely replace the O-ring Chris....it cost's 50 cents....and takes 15 minutes....
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#10
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The important thing will be to determin exactly where the belt is slipping. Try removing the belt and turning the pullies by hand to find a bad one. The should all be quiet and turn freely. The type of belt adjusters used by subaru and a lot of imports make it easy to overtighten a belt causing premature failure of accessories, and yes crank pullies. I hope this can help and good luck.
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ASE Master and L1 cert. Discounted Repairs I feel a lot more like I do now then I did before. 92 SVX 5spd, (sold),92 SVX Teal, 67 Mustang 351C 5spd, 00 Galant. |
#11
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Don't be too concerned about that ring unless it is leaking. If you do mess with the pump at all, then yes replace it for sure.
I would check that the pulleys are all freely spining and quiet. After that, consider the tension you have and the brand of belt you are using. Is the belt actually glazed or is it simply shreading? If it is shredding and the pulleys are all fine... are you sure you are tightening the bolt enough on the idler pulley? Not the one that pushes it into place, but the one in middle of the pulley. Also try tightening it with the belt OFF and testing for noise/sieze.
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#12
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There is unlikely to be any visible evidence of the O ring leaking, as the problem is the entry of air not a loss of fluid. The effect is understandable as air can be compressed, where as fluid can not.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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