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#1
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harmonic damper bolt not budging
1) I've got a 5MT, so I put the car in 4th gear and pulled the ebrake tight with all four wheels on the ground. Leaned on the harmonic damper bolt pretty good with a three foot breaker bar. The bolt wouldn't budge.
2) Fashioned up a leverage tool that fits in the holes in the damper and braced that tool against the car chassis and then leaned on the bolt with the same three foot extension, and the bolt still wouldn't budge. I'm worried that if I lean any harder that I'll do damage to the front crank bearing or the crank itself. Anyone have any thoughts on how to get the bolt loose? How does the starter method work? Do you brace the breaker bar against the chassis and turn the starter?
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#2
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Yup. Just make sure you disable the injection or spark before hitting the key.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#3
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I got it. Talked to svxfiles on the phone. His method worked perfectly. I used a breaker bar pointing straight up, and whacked it from right to left just like an impact wrench would go. On the 5th smack, the bolt spun lose. Nice, low stress method.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#4
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Actually that is the way I do it. It just seems every time I advise it everyone else responds in support of using the starter. The hammer just seems a lot safer and more controllable to me, until it slips through your fingers and lands on the fender...
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#5
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Quote:
I'd tell you what the West Virginia name for Tom's method is, but this is a "family site" -Bill p.s. would you get that engine back together already? p.p.s got my "Level 2" intake manifold back - check my locker for pics
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#6
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Can I use the hammer method for the cam pulley bolts too? Maybe put some padding around areas where the breaker bar my land if it flys loose?
Bill, I've got the intake completely back together. Yeah. Just gotta finish the t-belt, flush the cooling system, and put in some water, antifreeze, and water wetter. Oh, and I've got to replace a ripped CV boot. The timing belt looks like a breeze compared to the intake manifold. Hope that's the case.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#7
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You can give it a try but I'd be surprised if it works, the cams have a lot less drag than the crank. Search through Matt's (Immortal_suby) posts re: cam holding tool for a homemade solution. Or for $20-$45 you can buy an actual aftermarket tool made to hold them still. See #38220 here: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_search...cfm?Search=cam or: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog or MST9680 here:
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...&page=1焆.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) Last edited by Beav; 09-19-2005 at 04:44 AM. |
#8
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Quote:
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
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