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  #1  
Old 01-20-2004, 08:44 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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engine not running well first few minutes

For a few weeks since the weather has gotten cooler my car "sometimes" will start find but if I don't let it warm up a few minutes, it will start running very rough and lose power, most of the time it will continue to run but it takes maybe 4 miles to start running like normal. But this afternoon when leaving work I only got about a mile and it started pulling down and would not continue to run as it had been doing and it finely died. It was hard to restart and when it did it was very rough and would only run with the accelerator barely depressed, not all the way at an idle and certainly not with much throttle, but then in maybe two minutes it started taking the gas and then a short time later it cleared up and ran as if nothing was wrong at all. About a year and a half ago I replaced the coolant temp. sensor and I am wondering if it has gone bad but the last time it went out it didn't act the same way, it then would just start and die and start and die for a few times and also that time the check engine light was on, this time it isn't,,I can't remember but I think some time back the light did come on briefly and go out but never stayed on but a few seconds.. So, has anyone had anything happen like this? and do you think it could be the CTS again?? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Vernon
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2004, 10:42 PM
TorG0d
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The first thing I would do is put some fuel injector cleaner in the gas, then check all the vacuum hoses. I'm currently replacing all my vacuum hoses for a similar (but not as severe) problem.
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2004, 07:45 AM
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GreenMarine GreenMarine is offline
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And check the O2 sensors... They might be going too....
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Old 01-21-2004, 03:51 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys,, I use Sea Foam injector cleaner fairly often and I will check on the vac. hoses when it gets warmer, The puzzling thing to me is if I start it and it only runs a few minutes I mean only two or three minutes it doesn't miss a beat. It runs like a scalded dog but if I just take off with no warm up at all it will go a short ways and then it acts like it is either loading up on fuel or the spark is advanced, I noticed that when it died yesterday afternoon and it was reluctant to start and it seemed to kick back like the older V8s I am used to would do if I set the timing to fast and then it seemed to be in a flooded state for a while but then it started clearing up and then it ran like nothing was wrong. Am I wrong in thinking if it were a vac. hose or a O2 sensor that it wouldn't clear up and run normal for hours once it got over it's little acting up spell??? Of course I don't know that or I wouldn't have to be asking questions, obviously I am not to adept on the workings of this kind of engine..
Thanks again..
Vernon
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  #5  
Old 01-21-2004, 04:28 PM
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Landshark Landshark is offline
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i had the same problem - cold start, if no 3 minute warm up, then rough running and the occaisional cylinder#1 misfire code. after it warmed up, no problems. did plugs, replaced a bad coil pack, PCV valve, etc. no dice. finally the cooolent temp sensor fixed the problem.

maybe the new one you put in was shaky right off the shelf? they're cheap enough to try another one, at least.
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2004, 05:16 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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Landshark, I am suspecting that the coolant sensor might be the problem again,, the only thing , this time I am not getting a check engine light like I did the last time, but since I have to go to Columbia Friday to get a "C" solenoid anyway, I think I will go ahead and get the sensor and try it. The last sensor I got was an after market one and usually I don't have any problems but as you said it might not have been all that good although it did run perfectly after I installed it.
If I get the rear wheels to kick in and this engine problem solved then I plan on changing the timing belt and the seals since it is leaking some oil from the front of the engine.
I really like these cars but they are sure not without their problems. I still haven't found what is causing my scanner to pick up interference even with the engine not running and the key in the run position , I haven't checked yet for bad grounds like one person suggested on here but I don't know where to look for ground points yet anyway.
Well, thanks again.
Vernon
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2004, 04:14 PM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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The MYSTERIOUS Rough Idle !

I (and others) have had similar intermittent "fouling" on cold startup. I replaced CTS and other goodies, evaluated grounds/voltage/harnesses, etc.......etc......etc.! For me, it was a fairly consistent problem for 6 months 11/02 to 5/03, then suddenly it (the occurence) slowed down drastically all summer! It started up again when it started to get cold here (11/03), I used multiple fuel cleaners (Berryman's, Redline, Techron and some Octane boosters)>> HASN'T COME BACK SINCE! Originally, I thot it had something to do with the cold weather >> hence, I replaced the CTS (didn't help)! I can't be sure, but both times it got much better at the time I was using fuel cleaners!

I spent hundreds of hours trying to figure this out on-line (Beav, et al) and off! You can read about my journey if you look under rough idle and/or James Scott . GOOD LUCK!

P.S. Is that Bland, Michigan or Bland, Montana? or just bland? (Anywhere, U.S.A.?)
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1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
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Last edited by James Scott; 01-22-2004 at 04:21 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2004, 06:07 PM
Green1995SVX
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Sounds like a bad coolant temp sensor.

Mike
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2004, 07:41 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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I have used injector cleaner several times but it didn't seem to help, I think I will get a CTS tomorrow and see if it helps, as I said, the last time it went out I did get a light but this time it isn't coming on,it did come on some time back a time or two but went right back off, since the light isn't on, can the codes still be read?? Oh.. James, you asked where Bland is.. well the one I live in is in Missouri, and yes it is pretty bland,, there are only 660 people living here but that is plenty for me, I would rather be out in the country...
Thanks
Vernon
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2004, 08:27 PM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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rural location

I thot I was rural 'cause I work in a town of 4 to 6,000! I live on the outskirts of a town with 500 to 700,000 people! There are definite advantages to a small town. I like walking down the street where I work, being recognized by school kids as well as adults who smile and say "HI! Dr Scott!" (I'm a dentist at a clinic). On the other hand, if I want an auto parts store or hardware or restaurant, I'm on the fringe of a large town which has those amenities. [It's not the Subaru dealer I'm glad I'm close to >> They couldn't figure out what was wrong with my SVX either -- In fact, they said it was the auto trans (wanted $5100 {no rebuild available} for new AT + $500 labor)-- Turned out it was rough idle at high speed causing shudder sometimes, NOT TRANS!]

TAKE CARE!

P.S. I agree to replace the CTS! It's the cheapest part I've bot for this SVX ($15 to $20), plus it's the easiest to replace!
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1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme!
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2004, 09:01 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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Well, I spent the whole day working on my car,, put a new "C" solenoid in,, that fixed my awd problem but I installed a new coolent sensor and that didn't fix the cold take off problem so I guess I will either just not worry about it and let it warm for 3 to 4 minutes or maybe get back in the mood to mess with it some more, I have looked for bad vac. hoses and used injector cleaner and so far, nothing helped..
Thanks for the help and if anyone has any other ideas on this problem please don't hesitate to mention them.
Thanks again.
Vernon
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2004, 09:15 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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I forgot to mention in my last post that besides the "c" solenoid and the cts, I also " finely " got my after marked keyless entry gadget to work..I took out the glove compartment , which was a task in it's self and took out the security module and finely found the wires I have been looking for about a year now.. I poked every wire in the drivers door and never found any that would activate my " lock " unlock" feature on my little remote. It wasn't real easy but now that part works too...
I have 4 or 5 screws left over from the glove compartment that I couldn't get back in but I doubt that it will fall out anyway as hard as it was to get it removed.
Vernon
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  #13  
Old 01-25-2004, 03:09 AM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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GLOVE BOXED IN!

Don't feel bad! I took my glove box out a year ago looking for the security module harness (to connect to my aftermarket alarm), but found nothing resembling that harness. After a more thorough analysis of my (several) OEM manuals, I found that my security module (area) harness is located in the front top of the trunk! After assembling the alarm, I left the glove box out so I could deal with a dash rattle. But, I couldn't ever locate the rattle, so I kept postponing replacing the glove box. Now, I've given up on the intermittent dash rattle, but I can't install the glove box, CAUSE I CAN'T FIND THE SCREWS! Hope this makes you feel better in some sick way, LOL!

P.S. Now I'm waiting to treat the AC/HEATER system (stinky mold) with Dayle's magic spray can before attempting glovebox replacement! [I remember it was a little tricky to get out, and now I don't have a clue how to reinstall>> THIS IS A TEST!

KEEP THOSE SCREWS, I MAY NEED THEM!!!
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1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme!
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2004, 10:23 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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For '92-'93 SVXes the security module is behind the glove box. On '94+ cars, its on the ceiling of the trunk. At least that's how it is for USDMs.
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