rear differential ratio

[JakeP]

Tranny was not opened up, just convertor seal and propellar seal replaced. Wire to solenoid is plugged in and not damaged. Dexron 3 compatable fluid was used only to top off fluid level. Will try to read any codes.

[longassname]

I don't understand. Unless you drained the old fluid out and then re-used it you must have replaced the fluid when you took the transmission out to replace the converter seal. What exact fluid did you use? What brand, etc?

You don't need to try to read any codes unless the power light is flashing 16 times at start up like the other poster mentioned. If the power light flashes 16 times at start up that indicates that your Transmission Control Unit has a trouble code stored.

Originally Posted by JakeP

Tranny was not opened up, just convertor seal and propellar seal replaced. Wire to solenoid is plugged in and not damaged. Dexron 3 compatable fluid was used only to top off fluid level. Will try to read any codes.

[JakeP]

The car sat in my shop jacked up and ready to pull tranny for several weeks before actually pulling it. The convertor drained back into tranny. Lost very little fluid when sliding convertor out. Used about a quart of Walmart brand fluid, something I usually would not do to a tranny! Looking thru the FSM it is my understanding the solenoid activates the clutch for slippage during tight turns and the clutch assembly is a sealed unit with a silicone based fluid that is not serviceable. The tranny fluid is not used in the clutch. I do not know what actually triggers the solenoid, perhaps the steering rack or steering wheel when turning past a certain point.

[longassname]

No, that's not how the multi-plate transfer clutch works at all. The transfer clutch works off of the atf just like every other clutch in the transmission.

If you have binding either your solenoid has gone bad, your transfer clutch has gone bad, or you just need better fluid + lubegard as I recommended.

I'm the guy that invented the performance rebuild for these transmissions by the way. I have rebuilt many of them. The advice I am giving you isn't something I read on the internet.

It would be a good idea for you to replace your fluid with the fluid I recommended to you in any event. If you still have binding after that you should go ahead and get a new transfer solenoid, transfer clutch pack, and extension housing gasket so you can replace them all together.

You never confirmed whether you checked that your throttle and cruise control cables are properly adjusted or not. That is probably not the cause of your problems but assuming you removed them when you pulled the transmission you should double check your adjustment of them.

Originally Posted by JakeP

The car sat in my shop jacked up and ready to pull tranny for several weeks before actually pulling it. The convertor drained back into tranny. Lost very little fluid when sliding convertor out. Used about a quart of Walmart brand fluid, something I usually would not do to a tranny! Looking thru the FSM it is my understanding the solenoid activates the clutch for slippage during tight turns and the clutch assembly is a sealed unit with a silicone based fluid that is not serviceable. The tranny fluid is not used in the clutch. I do not know what actually triggers the solenoid, perhaps the steering rack or steering wheel when turning past a certain point.

[Blacky]

These words he speaks are true. He could probably rebuild an SVX tranny in his sleep blind folded!

[JakeP]

Guess I got miss-informed, thanks for setting me straight on that. Found exactly what you say in the FSM. Car has been parked for awhile but got a chance to check a few things out yesterday. Put a fuse in for FWD only, showed up as FWD in instrument cluster.No torque binding, removed fuse and binding returned. Tryed reading transmission codes with shifter sequence described in FSM and none show up. Power light does work but does not come on when pressing gas pedal in final step of self diagnoses. When pressing manual mode on shifter with engine running there is no indicator lite to show it is engaged. Removed shifter lever thinking maybe a bad wire, there is no wire or a place for a wire. Today I put the FWD fuse in again but no FWD lite in dash cluster and torque bind remains. Possibly an electrical problem?

[JakeP]

Drained tranny fluid, filled with maxlife atf and added lubegard atf protectant. Put fuse in for FWD and FWD showed up on instrument cluster.Weather is terrible right now so no test drive.