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#136
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Ok well im going to try and bleed it one more time and see if that makes a difference.Every time though i have someone push the pedal down i never see any air come out, just a shot of fluid. The pedal feels equal to that of a new jetta. There is virtually no pressure at all. So i figured this was a problem with the hydraulics. Ill keep you informed, and am open to any more suggestions for now..
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#137
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No such luck with slipping the clutch. The shake and chatter is still there when starting off the line accompanied by the smell of burning clutch. Also when letting the clutch out while going into gear sometimes. The pedal still feels awfully soft even though no air is coming out of the nipple, im gonna try to find a bottle and try it that way next....So doest that mean the tranny should come back out then?
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#138
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you're makin' progress
Wanta,
I was very glad your engine wasn't bad. In switching ISP providers, I missed some of the play by play. As far as severe clutch chatter... In a mustang I had a couple years ago, the parts person at Schuck's gave me the wrong throw-out bearing. It did fit a mustang, and I indeed did install it. The shudder was pretty bad but I drove it for a couple thousand miles. Finally I got another T.O. bearing, installed it and all was well. I'm not saying your T.O. is wrong but it sure sounds familiar. At any rate it sounds like your persistance to fix this car is second to none, very best of luck. |
#139
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OK well i just bled the clutch with the ketchup bottle and it worked fantastic. The test drive after left me with a on my face. It definitely improved the clutch chatter and feel of the clutch tremendously. I still feel the slave and master chould be switched just because I feel the clutch has never been quite right with the car to begin with. But either way the Gears are amazing. Thanks so much mychailo without you I'd still be on a list waiting for the next 6months. Thanks for all the help here on the thread its amazing how smart you all are...
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#140
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go forth and enjoy!!
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#141
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After considering the placement of the 'pitching stopper' it may not be as effective in reducing the chatter as would a hydraulic dampener mounted to the right (from the driver's view) side of the engine. Many OEMs include such dampeners on their engines for this purpose. The SVXs' pitching stopper limits the engine lifting through the crankshaft centerline, a dampener offset to the right would reduce twisting around the crankshaft's centerline. I suspect that the hydraulic engine mounts were intended to reduce suspension related/induced vibrations (speaking from my experience - my mounts, particularly the RH mount, are worn out and I enjoy road surface vibes through the gas pedal, etc.) Probably due to the age and condition of the mounts added to the new forces inflicted upon them (5spd) they aren't quite up to the job. A stroll through a late model junkyard should provide a number of such struts and mountings, they look like a short hood support strut. Can't hurt to try...
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#142
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I give him at least 2 days of driving before he posts again
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#143
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Ill have to look into the engine support strut. I still have some contact with the driveshaft and ??Not to sure at this point I looked earlier and couldn't find any scrathces really. I think it might be hitting my exhaust. Either way the kinks can finally be worked out Thanks again all..
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#144
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On mine the left cat would hit the front tranny crossmember.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#145
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the pass side pipe to center cat hits the mount. It's not uncommon from what i understand.
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#146
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Quote:
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#147
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So do you suggest pulling the tranny again then? Also how is your pedal pressure? I ask b/c mine still feels very easy to push. I was expecting it to like a s2000 or 350z type feeling something with some back bone. Im gonna be working on shimming the rear crossmember and fixing the points of contact. Which is also really weird because before when the 5spd was in there was no contact points ever, but now its contacting frequently...
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#148
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You could try burning off the remaining oil as Beav suggested. If that doesn't stop the chatter, then your only recourse is to drop the tranny one more time. By that time, there probably wouldn't be any oil left, but there would probably be some varnish or glaze on the pressure plate and flywheel that is messing up the coefficient of friction.
The pedal feel on mine is firmer than most clutches I've used. It will tire out my leg after about 15 min in stop-and-go traffic. I have the Exedy Sport Clutch which I am told is essentially a repackaged STi clutch. (Exedy makes all the OEM clutches for Subaru.) Have you determined where the contact points are? I'm curious because car was making thumping sound when the car would start moving from a stop, and it turned out to be the driveshaft. It wasn't actually contacting anything, but it was kinking at the center u-joint. Only happened when the car would start moving. As a side note to this, its interesting to see that the motor appears to be functioning properly despite having end-play in the crankshaft that is way out of tolerance. I also wonder if the end-play was induced by the forces associated with disengaging the clutch. Would be interesting if someone with a 4eat car could measure the endplay on the crankshaft on their motor. I'd like to measure it on mine too. Might try it this weekend.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#149
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Afterthought
Does the clutch chatter in reverse? As much as in first? Any difference? Just trying to save you from pulling the tranny again.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#150
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Yup just the same in reverse as forward. Sometimes its not that bad others its horrible. It all has something to do with the clutch master and slave i think. Because at some times the pedal definitely is noticeably different in feel even after the bleed yesterday so i think my hydraulic system is comprimised somewhere. And as far as the contact points go I looked underneath and couldn't find anything, and it does sound like its coming from the center of the driveshaft, and it shakes the hell out of the car...It along with the clutch shudder make some pretty violent shakes. I hope to get it all narrowed out tomorrow...
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