Waterpump, Timing belt, replace

Uncamitzi · #1 08-29-2011, 12:26 PM

after a long search..(maybe 3 minutes) I've grown tired of beating around the subject.

I am replacing the water pump (and after looking at the timing belt), Timing belt and thermostat, (maybe the idler pulleys too...but we'll see about those)

First hurdle is the crank pulley...
and a question... does the breaker bar wedged on the floor and cranking the engine with the Igniter disengaged work?

I've removed the radiator, carbon canister... removed the outside covers...
I'll start doing a short video AFTER I get the crank pulley off... (if I can)

Please...feel free to post... swear...laugh... whatever...

(ps...I know I haven't been around for a while.... it's my damn scooter ya see..... I've had the SVX parked almost a year except for the short drive to my mom's garage... I'll post more....I promise... )

icingdeath88 · #2 08-29-2011, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncamitzi

I am replacing the water pump (and after looking at the timing belt), Timing belt and thermostat, (maybe the idler pulleys too...but we'll see about those)

You can get a timing belt + idlers kit on Ebay, might as well do them too. Don't forget the WP/T-stat gaskets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncamitzi

First hurdle is the crank pulley...
and a question... does the breaker bar wedged on the floor and cranking the engine with the Igniter disengaged work?

Yes it does. Tightening it back is the hard part... You'll have to find a way to wedge a screwdriver or something between the flywheel and bell housing to keep it from turning while you torque it down to the proper spec.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncamitzi

I've removed the radiator, carbon canister... removed the outside covers...
I'll start doing a short video AFTER I get the crank pulley off... (if I can)

When you put the timing covers back on don't overtighten them. The captive nut is held in to the plastic rear cover and will break the plastic very easily.

Removing the radiator makes the job a lot easier. It might be a good idea to get new rad hoses as well if yours are old.

Uncamitzi · #3 08-29-2011, 07:13 PM

Ok...the good.
After talking to Tom (SVXfiles) and discussing the pros and cons of wedging a breaker bar against the ground and using the starting motor for torque .... and risking #1 broken teeth on the startermotor gear, #2 broken teeth on the torque converter #3 the risk of wrenches.. bars and sockets flying all over the back yard... I went with his method. Using a hardened impact 7/8 inch socket on my breaker bar and wacking the hell out of it with a 4lb mallet ... The pulley nut was loose after about 30 blows... and more than a little frustration

Upon removing the Crank Pulley and the center cover my suspicion of a seized water pump was confirmed.. which is a good thing actually...my imagination had started to run away with itself on possible other reasons for the overheating.. i.e. bad head gasket...

As I was attempting to remove the waterpump.. I noticed that the rear timing belt cover sort of covers the removal of the water pump... The only way I can see around breaking it is to remove the Left Side Cam Gear...

Any other solutions out there? a couple of pictures on my Iphone not down loaded yet...

Uncamitzi · #4 08-29-2011, 07:17 PM

Added information...All of the idler pulleys are in GREAT shape. No noise and rotate nice and firmly with no play....

svxfiles · #5 08-29-2011, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncamitzi

Ok...the good.
After talking to Tom (SVXfiles), GOD IS THAT MAN A WEALTH OF INFORMATION!!!!! and discussing the pros and cons of wedging a breaker bar against the ground and using the starting motor for torque .... and risking #1 broken teeth on the startermotor gear, #2 broken teeth on the torque converter #3 the risk of wrenches.. bars and sockets flying all over the back yard... I went with his method. Using a hardened impact 7/8 inch socket on my breaker bar and wacking the hell out of it with a 4lb mallet ... The pulley nut was loose after about 30 blows...(I HATE having little girlie wrists!

) and more than a little frustration

Upon removing the Crank Pulley and the center cover my suspicion of a seized water pump was confirmed.. which is a good thing actually...my imagination had started to run away with itself on possible other reasons for the overheating.. i.e. aliens, bad head gasket, aliens...

As I was attempting to remove the waterpump.. I noticed that the rear timing belt cover sort of covers the removal of the water pump... The only way I can see around breaking it is to remove the Left Side Cam Gear...

Any other solutions out there? a couple of pictures on my Iphone not down loaded yet...

Yes, there is a solution!

You have not taken out ALL SEVEN (7) bolts that hold the water pump to the the engine AND the rear timing belt cover.

Uncamitzi · #6 08-29-2011, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

Yes, there is a solution!

You have not taken out ALL SEVEN (7) bolts that hold the water pump to the the engine AND the rear timing belt cover.

I'll look tomorrow... I could have sworn that I not only took out all the bolts ..but put them in the NEW water pump in the order that I took them out...to avoid losing them.... ya see...

But after wacking on that damn wrench for 40 minutes...I could have been blinded by exhaustion....

Uncamitzi · #7 08-30-2011, 11:30 AM

Turns out I did remove all 7...+1 bolts... removed the two hoses and it's still hung up behind the rear cover.

these are big for detail....

got an answer for that MR. Wealth of Information (in your head)????

Uncamitzi · #8 08-30-2011, 02:17 PM

I'm sitting here at work thinking "What git designed the waterpump to fit BEHIND the rear cover of the belt cover!!!!

Conn SVX · #9 08-30-2011, 02:52 PM

There is nothing going into the block so just smack it to the left with a rubber mallet to free the gasket . Good luck

Uncamitzi · #10 08-30-2011, 02:59 PM

The gasket is loose.. the whole water pump wiggles...but there IS something hanging it up inside the block. I promise...

Notice you can see gasket material ..and I have removed the metal gasket that was inplace

Conn SVX · #11 08-30-2011, 07:51 PM

According to the manual there is noting back there, unless the shaft came loose and the impeller is sticking out the back a bit into the hole

Uncamitzi · #12 08-30-2011, 08:41 PM

Looking at the new one it's flat...nothing protrudes into the block...but that's not how it feels when I move it.. I'm afraid if I hit it with mallet I'll break something... Going to be until the weekend before I can work on it again so... I'll just have to wonder... get a stronger flashlight and look up under there.

svxfiles · #13 08-31-2011, 06:47 PM

It occurred to me a little while ago that the last time that I can remember replacing the water pump and timing belt WITHOUT replacing the cam seals was when I bought Christine, in2006!

Since then I have pulled the sprockets off and replaced the cam seals
(as far as I remember,)
Resealed the oil pump, and tighened the oil pump rear screws.,
cause, while you're down there.....

Uncamitzi · #14 08-31-2011, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

It occurred to me a little while ago that the last time that I can remember replacing the water pump and timing belt WITHOUT replacing the cam seals was when I bought Christine, in2006!

Since then I have pulled the sprockets off and replaced the cam seals
(as far as I remember,)
Resealed the oil pump, and tighened the oil pump rear screws.,
cause, while you're down there.....

For all your help...pppfftt...

I'll let you know if I wreck the block Saturday morning...

After I look at it a bit closer I'll give you a call again. Do you need a carry permit in West VA?

svxfiles · #15 08-31-2011, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncamitzi

For all your help...pppfftt...

I'll let you know if I wreck the block Saturday morning...

After I look at it a bit closer I'll give you a call again. Do you need a carry permit in West VA?

West Virginia?
Where "He needed killen!" is a documented legal defence?