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  #1  
Old 02-21-2006, 08:26 AM
want-a-fast-svx want-a-fast-svx is offline
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Pretty sure the engine is toast...

So i went to go play some pool last night and the car really had no power at all down low..Less than normal seeing as i 've been battling a problem with this pretty much since the 5spd swap i figured it would clear up well after a 1/2 mile or so it was still just bogging and running like absolute crap. Then that dreaded sound of knock in the engine. I dont mean knock like pre-ignition or detonation. I mean like a rod or something. I'm assuming the main bearing on the crank finally gave out completely i guess cause it was then knowcking at idle and under acceleration. Im gonna look at it some today and check the oil for metal pieces and all that good stuff. Looks like you just cant trust anyone you buy stuff from unless you are the one who had the engine before Needless to say i wont be buying an engine off anyone and will be rebuilding this once i save some money and have somewhere to do it at...Definitely pissed right now. Thats two engines so far and this latest one "supposedly" had 50xxx miles on it aproximately. I hardly believe that given its condition. Well just thought i'd let yall know. Oh yea and i might have put a total of 5000miles on this engine since the swap.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2006, 08:56 AM
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who did u gte it from, and don't trash this community because f a little bad luck. If it ran well for the first 5000 miles, then it probobly ran well for the previous onwer as well don't ya think?? I understand the frustration but I feel you are over reacting

Tom
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:08 AM
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Missing Information??

There seems to be some missing information here. As we all know these are cast iron engines UNLESS abused. Generally, overheating or sudden loss of oil are the only reasons for engine failure (of course use of nitrous changes that assumption). So, did you forget to put oil in it or did you lose all of your coolant? I agree that an engine run 5000 miles with satisfactory performance could not be blamed on the previous owner unless he knew that it had been several stressed by drag racing or nitrous use. I have 3 cars with over 160,000 miles on them (one with 225,000) and ALL run perfectly and use no oil. I bought one with a bad engine and it was because a woman drove it some distance after losing all coolant. Even that one still runs--just sounds like a brass band locked in a rotating dryer.

Lee
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2006, 10:26 AM
want-a-fast-svx want-a-fast-svx is offline
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First off....Never was i trashing the community nor will i divuldge who i bought it from for the very reasons you all stated. I think you two are overreacting to what i said. I said I wont be buying an engine from anyone. Not anyone on the boards cause everyone here is a con-artist. Obviously cause thats not the case at all. Everyone here is more than a avid car guy from what i can tell. So i dont appreciate you all coming down on me for something i was not conveying in the slightest.

Second...Yes i am aware that the engines in our cars are most of the time bullet proof and never have problems and dont burn oil till the 200.xxx mark. However im also a auto technician that even before the training and schooling would never ever ever run an engine without oil in it. I;ve ran mobil synthetic in from the day i got it. Which by the way looks fine? I figured it would of been at least a little contaminated with fragments. Also the car never ever overheated as the radiator waterpump and all hoses are brand new when i did the swap. The temp needle never even saw half way i dont believe even in the summer. And yes there was always coolant in the system.

Third....The idea of 5xxx being adequate is debateable because for the first 1500-2000 of that was with the auto so the crankwalk i have was not apparent. It was only apparent as soon as the 5spd swap was done.
I also your comments on 160xxx and more should show that 5xxx miles is nothing for these engines and obviously something was not right from the begining. The car never saw a track or dragstrip, never saw nitrous wouldnt ever screw with it, and wasnt driven crazy. I couldnt afford for something like this to happen so thats why i drove it normal. I knew this was gonna happen eventually however was not planning on it so soon.

So dont take what i said in my post's as deragatory or degrading to the board at all. I've been here a long time and learned many valuable things from the board here. Never would i disrespect it. In my opinion though from now on, now that i have the knowlege to i will be rebuilding the engine and anything else that goes wrong. That way when something happens i can say " hey guys i $%*#(@ up when i built my engine and it blew again". I however do not appreciate being basically insulted with the comments about coolant and liquids. If you cant keep these in your car and keep an eye on them to see if you have them you SHOULDNT be driving. My opinion.
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  #5  
Old 02-21-2006, 10:54 AM
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Just a thought

I have almost 200K miles on mine and I have been racing it at the track for 6 years. On several occasions, I have experienced a problem that sounded like terrible knock. I thought I was in big trouble. Turned out to just be a stuck fuel injector. It stuck in the open position dumping loads of fuel into one hole. It gets so bad and the plug gets so wet, it wont fire anymore, runs on 5 missing terrible and knocking due to near hydrostatic lock conditions on one piston. After injector was addressed, the problem went away.

NOT saying this is the same situation you have. Just some insight on similar sounds and situations.
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  #6  
Old 02-21-2006, 11:00 AM
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sorry guess I misunderstood. I apologize. Are you sure the engine has crank walk??? I mean if you are gauging from the front pulley, the pulley may be seperating rather than the crank actually moving. I would also look into Chris' idea of an injector maybe sticking open

Tom
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2006, 02:40 PM
want-a-fast-svx want-a-fast-svx is offline
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no need for apologies just a misunderstanding im sure on both our parts. And unfortunately i am 100% positive its crank walk. I checked it with a mag. dial indicator and and came up just shy of 1/4in. .024" to be exact checked it multiple times. And honestly its soo bad that you can not only see the crank pulley AND bolt move but also you here it in the cluch and pressure plate. I can pull it out and hear a distinct "clunk" (for lack of better words) And when you push it back in you hear the pressure plate and clutch move as well. I really really hope it is just an injector causing this and it very well might be. Did you just pull injectors till the car didnt change the way it was running to diagnose or did you ohm them out or ???I guess what was the procedure you used to diagnose it. Im gonna go see if its in the sevice manual i have and ill check it that way as well. I TRULY appreciate the help thus far and really do hope it is just an injector that would be nice. But when i rev it up it sounds like its knocking from the back middle of the engine where it is attached to the box. However the box is totally fine and shifts great. Its only got maybe 1500miles since the rebuild and doesnt seem to be the source of the sounds. Thanks again and ill look into the injector right now.
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Old 02-21-2006, 03:00 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Crankshaft end float.

I remember this when you fitted the manual box. The end float was well over specs then. I wondered then, how long it would take for it to fail. The end float spec is 0.002", so it had gone through the white metal on the thrust, and was into the steel backing then. Sadly I agree with you that the end float has got to the point that some component, is now hitting.

I don't think it is worth doing anything with that engine. The cost of bearings alone would buy you another engine. Surly you won't be that unlucky again.

Harvey.
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2006, 03:11 PM
want-a-fast-svx want-a-fast-svx is offline
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i dont know oab...im a pretty unlucky guy it seems from whats been going on lately...

well i still have the other engine at my friends house that i believe threw a rod. Not positive but pretty sure. I was planning on tearing that one apart once i find somewhere i can do that and rebuilding it to maybe a little higher performance. Which i would start a new thread asking all sorts of questions on suggestions of what to do and what parts to get. I figure i might as well just build it now since i was planning on doing it anyway. But we'll see i just cant justify throwing another 1000 or more at it for a used engine that could be just as bad or worse with no warranty or anything. Least if i build it and screw it up its my fault. Im in no rush at this point i think i have the jeep running pretty good right now. *yes i know i probably shouldnt of just said that* So once i start making some money and can find a place to tear into the engine i believe that is the route im gonna take. Any and all suggestions are welcome though
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2006, 04:09 PM
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if it causes problems at idle it is pretty simple to diagnose. Just unplug injectors one at a time. If it is not the cylinder failing, the engine will run worse, or simply stall out. If you find the cylinder affected, when you unplug that injector, it will not change how the car is running. Give it a shot and see what you can find. Also, might want to contact longassname if you do want to go with a rebuild, he is using 2.2l bearings in his engine build and they may end up being cheaper

Tom
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  #11  
Old 02-21-2006, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by want-a-fast-svx
I checked it with a mag. dial indicator and and came up just shy of 1/4in. .024" to be exact checked it multiple times.
Double check you math.

There's a big difference between 1/4in. and .024".

1/4in.=.25"

.25" - .024" = .226"

Good luck with your rebuild, please don't scrap your SVX due to a bad engine.

Dan
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Old 02-21-2006, 11:10 PM
want-a-fast-svx want-a-fast-svx is offline
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this is true my math is incorrect it was infact .024"- 24thousandths of an inch...either way its way way out of spec...And i appreciate the good luck with the rebuild i'll definitely need it...
And no need to worry about scrapping the svx cause i have way way too much into it now to even bother trying to sell it. Its gonna be in the family for quite some time... I bought this car with the intentions of making everything new.. Unfortunately i wasnt planning on this soo soon but stuff happens. Either way the crank walk was considerable and way out of spec from the beginning and now im sure is even worse. I havent checked anythign out today as i just wanted to try and forget about all thats been going on lately. The suby just tops the list of other things that have been going on...Some bulged disc on from c-4 to c-7 and t-1 and t-2 have been toying with my head lately as well this is just another kick in the pants i wasnt expecting soo soon. When im done though everything will be pretty much brand new and the car should be ready go after the rebuild Cant wait for that day. Well dont think i would ever scrap or get rid of the car b/c i have way too much into her now and wouldnt get rid of her anyways..She'll be back and way better than ever. Just gonna take some time and a good amount of money unfortunately Well I appreciate the help so far and I apologize for my incorrect statements about the figures.. However if you see what spec is and see what i wrote you'll still see they are way way out of line and in dire need of a rebuild.
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