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#1
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Tranny problem: Solenoid B, where is it, how do I check wires?
I turned on my SVX after it had sat in my driveway undriven for about half an hour, with no previous problems, and all of a sudden, the "power" light came on and flashed at me a number of times. I turned it off, and turned it back on again, and counted the flashes this time. I got 16 flashes, but when I looked for an error code of 16, there isnt one that exists. SO I turned it on again, and this time it didnt flash at me at all. What is the deal here? Could it possibly be faulty wiring with no problem at all, or is there something I'm missing here?
Last edited by dwd1985; 10-17-2005 at 01:13 PM. Reason: MOre attention given to title |
#2
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Not the actuall trans code thats like the check engine light being on...There is a way to check it over at www.svx-iw.com
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#3
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Click on the svxipedia link at the top of the above link. Scroll down to transmission codes.
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#4
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Ok, I did the code check, but nothing happened. The power light would come on and blink once, and then come on again and blink twice. It would be like this:
Blink (1/2 second nothing) Blink Blink. (1/2 second nothing) Blink (1/2 second nothing) Blink Blink. etc. It didnt do this any specific number of times. nothing feels bad when I drive it, everythign shifts ok. Could this possibly be just a bad wire somewhere and it thinks there is a problem? When I did the code check, I did the one for current problems, not for previous problems, but if this just happened today when the light first blinked, is that not a current problem? In so confused about this. There really shouldnt be a tranny problem, it was just rebuilt about 20K miles ago, and nothing feels bad when I drive. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know what I can do to find out the problem. |
#5
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Im an idiot
OK, I realized how to read the code. The one long flash meant 10, and the 2 short flashes meant 2. So code 12 is what I got. So that means duty solenoid B is malfunctioning. So, can anyone tell me what this means? Is this a big deal or what? The www.endwrench.com article mentions that this means torque convertor lockup wont occur. I am not sure what this means. If anyone knows how I can approach this problem, please let me know.
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#6
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Either the contols(wire's or hoses) going to sol. B a bad or the sol itself is shot. No lock up means that after your trans gets up to 150 degrees instead of it locking like it should it will continue to wear on the 2-4 gear band (go ahead do a search on brake band) and it will lower your gas milage....Check the contols first.
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#7
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So what steps should I take here?
Ok, so if I adjust the brake band (which seems to be a very simple process), then that could just be the problem? Because that would be great, because I was just ready for everythign on my car to be fixed, as my knock sensor was supposed to arrive today, and then I was going to go and replace it, and then my SVX was going to be at 100%, when all of a sudden this comes up. So what is the right course of action here? Is it
1: adjust the brake band, clear the code from the TCU, and see if the code comes back? 2: if it does come back, get the wires and hoses goign to duty solenoid B replaced? 3: if that still doesnt fix it, have the solenoid replaced? Please let me know what you all think. You have no idea how happy I am to have this network where everyone knows what they are talking about, so I dont waste time and money talking to some rip-off mechanic. Thanks everyone. |
#8
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The code is for the sol controlling the tourque converter not the brake band. so that shouldn't do anything yet.
Its probably wires just check to make sure they are all pluged in and not borken or corroded. That is kinda expensive as I seem to remember last time somebody talked about those solonids they only came in a pack (sol a-c)
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#9
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Oops, again I am an idiot...
Ok, so just to be sure about everything, I re-checked the code, and it is code 11, not 12, which means duty solenoid A. I was extremely tired when I had half-assedly checked the code last time, and must have just read it incorrectly. SO I checked it a couple of times, and everytime it was code 11. SO I disconnected and removed the battery, took the resistor off of the inside of the fender, disconnected it and cleaned it out, reconnected it, and reinstalled everything the way it was. So when I started the car again, no blinking power light. I turned it off, and just to be safe, started it again, and no code showed up. But I still wanted to be sure, so I did the code check again, and it showed a code 11 again. Now I have read the other posts about this, and it seems the next step to take is to check the ohms of the resistor. This may be one stupid question, but how do I do that? Everyone gives advice on these forums and says things like "Go ahead and check the resistance", which it seems like everyone but me seems to know how to do. What do I need to do to check the resistance? Also, lets pretend that when I do check the resistance, it doesnt fall within the proper ohms level, and I need a new resistor. Where do I get one? Is there a part number someone could give me that might help me locate one? I am also aware that if the resistor is reading ok, then I need to check the wires going to the solenoid, and if the wires are ok, its time for a new bunch of solenoids from subaruparts.com, for about $275. Please give me some help with this, if you dont mind answering my dumbass questions.
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#10
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To check the resistance, you need an ohm meter, or multimeter that can also check voltages. You can pick up a real cheap one at Radio Shack for about 10 or 15 bucks. Or you can do yourself right and buy a Fluke 77 or so off of eBay.
Try this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Digit...81737486QQrdZ1 Cheap, and will get the job done... Including all the DC voltage measurements you are going to have to make.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#11
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Also... Bookmark this link in your favorites for SVX parts.
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?model=2 Put in your year, FWD or AWD, etc.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#12
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Heres the resistor:
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=184-A Dahgone!! That thing is pricey!! I understand it's a high wattage power resistor, but come on!!
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#13
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I kind of doubt the resistor is bad anyway.
OK, I'll stop post-hoin' this thread now.
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#14
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Many members will have an extra resistor (especially 5spd owners). Mine, for instance, is practically brand new.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#15
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OK, so I am getting my ohm- meter tonight, and will check the resistance as soon as I have it in my possession (im borrowing it from a friend). Also, I checked the fluid, and its all the way full, so the low line pressure is not caused by a fluid leak or anyhting like that. So, assuming that the resistor isnt bad, my next step is to check the wires going to solenoid A. The problem is, I cant figure out where to look, even with this diagram I found in one of the other forums. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...tachmentid=629
So, where do I start? Under the car? Towards the grill or towards the windshield? High or Low? Need alittle help please. Thanks alot guys, so far this forum is helping me immensly. Last edited by dwd1985; 10-18-2005 at 01:05 PM. Reason: incorrect information |
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