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  #16  
Old 10-10-2005, 10:16 AM
davew833 davew833 is offline
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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A sad story...

Well, it helps to have a 'parts car' sitting in the yard. The first SVX I bought was a great looking pearl '92. Unfortunately, it had 160k miles and a blown head gasket (maybe two) which I didn't know about. Since I bought it at an auction, I was stuck with it. The second SVX I bought which I am now driving, had a broken front diff which I replaced (with help from SVXfiles) and only 103k miles, but suffers from a crappy 'Earl Scheib' paint job in some off color which can only be described as 'not quite claret'. Eventually, I plan to put the engine from SVX #2 into SVX#1, but until then I'm borrowing minor parts (such as the TPS and temp sensor) from #1 to get #2 running properly.
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  #17  
Old 10-10-2005, 10:36 AM
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svxcuseme svxcuseme is offline
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Sorry to here of your bad luck. It sounds kind of similar. I bought mine from a guy in DC and drove it back to Atlanta. $1000 later in parts and it is tip top!

At least it's not all bad...you have a parts car right? I'm jealous! I just spent $180 for the new TPS.
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2005, 08:27 AM
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svxcuseme svxcuseme is offline
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New TPS does'nt fix 2-3 flare

Tested and Installed my new TPS last night. When testing, the new TPS shows gradual and steady increases in resistance...like it should. I know the old one was bad. Unfortunately, this did'nt fix my 2-3 flare. It came back with a vengence in the parking deck ...Damn!

Anyone with experience fixing this problem after adjusting band and replacing TPS would be appreciated. I'm purchasing a parts SVX next week so I can do some parts swapping. Any help in the meantime is appreciated.
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2005, 08:47 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Just curious: How far from ATL did you have to go to find a parts car?

dcb
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2005, 03:07 PM
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svxcuseme svxcuseme is offline
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Seems like with so many people experiencing this 2-3 flare under light throttle, there would be a definative problem solving strategy like start with adjusting the break band. Then try adjusting/cleaning the TPS, then replace TPS, then...

I'm looking for the ... from someone who has resolved the flare. Anyone?

Thanks.

PS I'm driving 8 hours and towing it. It's not a done deal yet though.

Last edited by svxcuseme; 10-20-2005 at 03:10 PM.
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2005, 09:13 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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2nd/3rd flair.

There are only two things that can cause flair in the 2nd 3rd change.
!. The brakeband has too much clearence.
2. The line pressure has dropped during the change to allow the high clutch to slip.

If the brake band has been adjusted properly by the book, Tighten adjuster to required torque, then back it out 3 full turns, It should not cause it to flair.
The line pressure is lowered on the change, brought back up when the change has happened. The TPS controls the throttle pressure side of the total line pressure, if it is faulty the line pressure will drop along with the faulty sensor.

If you are sure that the band has been adjusted properly, then the only thing left is; The line pressure is lower than it should. Check the pressure with a gauge.
Or the high clutch is worn to the point of slipping.

Harvey.
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  #22  
Old 10-23-2005, 06:52 PM
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svxcuseme svxcuseme is offline
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Line pressure is suspect

Harvey,

Thanks! I performed the Band adjustment just like you and the Service manual suggest. I actually backed it off 2 2/3 from 3" pounds tight. I'm pretty confident I did it correctly. Even though it is'nt the cause of this flare I'm sure it needed to be done. I think you're pointing me in the right direction on line pressure.

I've unhooked the dropping resistor and shift kit. This helps. In it's place, I installed a resistor that measures 525ohms and 2.5 watts. Apparently this is enough to keep the power light off, line pressure up, and the flare from getting out of control. I'll know tomorrow when I drive into work. I only had one small flare all weekend and it was about 1/10th of the normal flare.

More to follow...
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