Upgraded brakes

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
collin.. he meant cheaper by a lot...

My dad has the EBC greenstuffs on his rex and loves them. i really like the pedal feel too, however i would REALLY suggest not getting cheapo pads. my axxis MMs died because of a frozen caliper, didn't have the money or time to get anything other than the napa special... and MAN do they SUCK...

i have the ss brakelines on the front, and with these pads the pedal feel is horrible.

which means... Collin, you're helping me replace the fronts with the akebonos (probably) sometime this term... and should probably put the rear stainless steel lines on too.

Wow...I'm dumb. I thought it said *buy* not by....

I'll be happy to give you a hand. Just as long as it isn't snowing. I once had to change my brakes in a parking lot in the snow, not fun at all.

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by wawazat??


By a TON Collin.

Todd

Todd, have you made your own?

[SVX10]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow


which means... Collin, you're helping me replace the fronts with the akebonos (probably) sometime this term... and should probably put the rear stainless steel lines on too.

I'm gonna miss out on all the Flint town SVX fun Maybe i can participate over the phone???

[SVXRide]

I'd be very careful about making your own SS brakelines. Given the pressure they run at, the specialized ends that they require, and the special crimping/swaging tool you need to put the ends on correctly, I'm not so sure you'd really save any $ doing them yourself (unless, of course, you already had the right tools...).
-Bill

[SVXer95]

Video Conference!

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SVXRide
I'd be very careful about making your own SS brakelines. Given the pressure they run at, the specialized ends that they require, and the special crimping/swaging tool you need to put the ends on correctly, I'm not so sure you'd really save any $ doing them yourself (unless, of course, you already had the right tools...).
-Bill

Just a thought really. Haven't researched it much, but doesn't seem like it would be too bad. Welded high pressure couplings can be had at very low prices from McMaster-Carr.

[wawazat??]

What happened to your post about units???

A local industrial hose making shop here in the Detroit area carries the entire Aeroquip, Earl's and Russell's product lines and can make custom brake line in the PTFE (Teflon) lined braided stainless steel VERY in-expensively. They have the tools and the experience to make these things correctly, but they need a sample hose for the correct lingths and fitting types. Godd thing I've got a parts car, eh?

In deference to Dayle's quoted price, I won't post it. Sorry, but I'm also not interested in running around and having hoses made for people.

Todd

[SVX10]

Message deleted to make Mat look like less of an idiot

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SVX10
Ever been in a truck with big ol' tires? When your rear bearings are shot, you'll get similar noise from the rear of your vehicle. Should get louder as speed increases, and it should get louder if you fold down the rear seat. It's easy to identify because you'll hear it faintly at first, and as you keep driving for a few weeks/months (depending upon how much you drive), it will get progressivly louder.

Not awake yet Mat?

I think you wanted another thread.

[SVXRide]

Originally posted by wawazat??
What happened to your post about units???

A local industrial hose making shop here in the Detroit area carries the entire Aeroquip, Earl's and Russell's product lines and can make custom brake line in the PTFE (Teflon) lined braided stainless steel VERY in-expensively. They have the tools and the experience to make these things correctly, but they need a sample hose for the correct lingths and fitting types. Godd thing I've got a parts car, eh?

In deference to Dayle's quoted price, I won't post it. Sorry, but I'm also not interested in running around and having hoses made for people.

Todd

Collin,
What Todd has stated above is exactly what I was talking about -- you can make the lines, as long as you've got the right equipment. You definitely don't want a fitting popping off on you coming down a steep hill
-Bill
p.s. Todd - "not interested"?? I figured this would be a nice addition to your product line

[SVX10]

What the??? I have NO idea how that got into this thread. hahahaha. I wrote that at like 10:00 last night...I was finally waking up from a slow day at work ;-) Time to go hunt down the correct thread and share my wisdom there. As for the steel lines...contrary to popular opinion, they don't sound like a truck with big tires

Thanks all.

Alright, so it appears as though part one has been concluded. Akebono pads get a pretty high rating by everyone here (and on other sites as well). Here's the info that I've collected:

- Akebono ceramic pads for the front and rear. ~ $130, f & r
- Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. ~ $10, 34 oz.
- Drilled rotors are bad for both rotor and pad longevity, so slotted is preferable.

So, can anyone offer any advice on the slotted rotors? I'd like to stay away from the "get whatever is cheapest on eBay" thing, because I have no idea what brand rotor I will actually be getting. A lot of auctions do not specify, and I'd like to know what brand is going to be stopping my car. I dunno, IMO, stopping just seems important, eh?

Almost forgot... Two more questions.

1) Is 34 oz. of the Valvoline synthetic going to be enough to flush the system?
2) On tirerack.com, it lists the Akebono pads with a per axle price... I'm assuming that this means four pads for the entire front system, and four pads for the rear. Is this correct? i.e. I would need to buy one per-axle set for the front, and another for the rear.

[drivemusicnow]

1) not so sure, however 34oz seems like a helluvalot of brakefluid.. so i'm gonna GUESS yes
2) yes, by axle means you buy the front axle, adn the rear axle and you're set.

for the slotted rotors, most of the ones on ebay are going to actually come from the same place, however look for whatever ones say specifically "bradi" blanks... this is the one company that i believe actually manufactures them for our cars. then other companies distribute and drill and slot.... etc... if i were in your situation, i'd just go with blanks. the value behind slotted is only found when doing exccessive braking such as on a track. i think you'd actually stop faster from 80-0 on a blank disc over a slotted one. (more frictional area... i guess it'd be a toss up..)

[TomsSVX]

slotted rotors can make all the difference. Although it take away from friction surface, it allows the pads to get more bite. It also makes the rotors much warmer hence they are more prone to warping. The drilled and slotted will be fine as long as you are not running from 120-40mph speeds consecutively. I have done quite a few high speed drops with my drilled and slotted (not Bradi) in my fwd w/ AXXIS pads and i tell you what it is amazing. The drills allow for more ventilation allowing them to stay cooler than just slotted. I am not telling anyoen to do anything but I prefer the drilled and slotted w/ axxis metal masters. Good luck choosing.