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#1
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Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
I'll try to make this short.
Car has 174000 miles (156,600 if you count 4 miles over on speedometer) has run fine lately, no overheating. A few codes have been thrown since I got the exhaust redone, mostly the Left oxygen sensor (code #37) but shortly after went out. Saw this three times in 6 months. No starting issues other than the normal click, click, start Parked car on slight incline at work around 12 noon. Started car to leave about 6pm. let it idle down below 1k RPM as normal and then left. I live about a two blocks away and half way there the car started to chug and wouldn't respond correctly to the gas pedal. I coaxed her home the other block into my garage where I parked it and it short after died. I tried to start it and could get it to fire 2 out of 5 times. The few times it did start I had my foot pedal to the metal and was cranking, as I let off the pedal it woud slowly pick up RPMs until just above 2k. I had got it started two or three times with a very bad idle and it would die as soon as I hit the pedal. Again, pedal to the floor seemed to cut fuel and depressing allowed it to start. Since then the car will not fire, it only cranks. I can hear the fuel pump and verified there was fuel to the filter. It's a brand new filter so I didn't bother checking the out side of the filter. I was under the assumption that it is a timing issue so I started by replacing the cam angle and position sensors, below the alternator, from a known running SVX, but no go. I metered the sets of sensors and they were all within 1-ohm or under (have specs at home if needed). I pulled half of the left side timing cover off to see if the belt was shredded but it seemed intact. Should I remove the whole cover or is peeking through the top side just fine? At this point I am kinda stumped. Work has been swamped and I have minimal time to research and at home my internet consists of a 3.5 inch screen on a Palm Pre Any Idea?? All help appreciated! The correct answer deserves cookies so what kind do you want? |
#2
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
Shredded timing belt means you are already behind in changing it. Expect some down time with the car. Pull the covers , pull the belt. Inspect the pullies and idlers to make sure they all still roll with a slight resistance and they are all smooth. Check the water pump for the same. If anything is a little off replace it accordingly. There is a good chance the timing belt has jumped. I would start there.
Tom |
#3
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
Yeah definitely pull both side covers off, TDC the engine, and verify BOTH cams line up with the marks. I have had an issue with a single cam jumping timing because of a bearing dust seal popping off and being pulled between the cam and the belt. The belt may look ok, but eliminate the timing issue like Tom said, then you can go from there.
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#4
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
Quote:
He says his timing belt was NOT shredded, but seemed intact. But we don't know how old it is. .
__________________
. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#5
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
Quote:
Tom |
#6
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
This I was expecting.. a timing issue.. I will be going home tonight to pull off the timing covers and have a look-see. I have been looking at rebuilding the engine in my claret since I bought it. The parts I already have include the following (some are not engine parts):
28015AA070 Front Inner Seals 28015AA080 Front Outer Seals 28044AA001 Axle Nuts 13584AA090 Right Side Cover Gasket 13586AA060 Left Side Cover Gasket 13597AA010 Center Timing Cover Gasket 13587AA000 Bottom Center Gasket 13270AA031 RH Rocker 13294AA020 RH Rocker 1329AA030 RH Rocker 13272AA031 LH Rocker 13293AA011 LH Rocker 13293AA020 LH Rocker 42072PA010 Fuel Filter 21236AA010 Thermostat Seal 11122AA340 Oil Pan Gasket 806919050 Oil Pump O-Ring 21116AA020 Water Pump Seal ??????????? Rear Tranny Mount What I want to do is fully seal, clean and seat my engine and components. I'll be removing the engine the 16th and then it's on! just need to get things lined up so I can get it done and back on 4 claws! My hope is to entirely rebuild; pistons, valves, etc. What i need to know is if anyone of you out there have some sort of a list for a full rebuild; part numbers and what-not. Anyone? Obviously head gaskets and components like that will be need, the only thing is the part numbers that I DO NOT have. Anyone have a list of these items? If anyone has any other parts or information that may help out in this process that would be awesome! your awesome Thanks again, everyone, for the help! Your fellow member, Sonny aka. Mr. Claret |
#7
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
you may have more time left on your engine than you think.....mine has 275k miles and still not burning oil...depending on how that engine was cared for over the years you might be able to postpone the internal rebuild, unless your going w forged internals
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92' Claret LSL 282,000 miles 1owner(ME) 07' Pearly WRX 40k Cobb Stage II (sold) SVX+$$$+GreaseMonkey = |
#8
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Re: Need Some Help: No Start, No Code!
I tend to agree with you and i think the engine has been cared for over the years. It has the tranny cooler, the tranny looked clean and there is minimal oil on the underside of the engine, however, there is a tick that I can't seem to keep gone. There is also seepage of oil around the normal problem areas. Just because I can only guess on the abuse the engine has took is the majority of the reason I want to do this. At LEAST clean it all up and replace the needed seals and gaskets. I just want the car to where I know what has and hasn't been done for the sake of troubleshooting upcoming problems and to boost my knowledge of "why what happens, happens." I may find out that it isn't worth the time and $$$ to do this, but I need to get my ducks in a row so it doesn't take a century to finish this project. My main objective is PERFORMANCE so any upgrade I can do, I want to hear about it.
P.S. I am also looking into rebuilding/swapping the transmission so I need to the engine at tip-top |
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