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  #1  
Old 02-14-2005, 07:17 PM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Full brake job ahead of me...

Took a 1/4 day off from work tomorrow as I plan to do some work on my car in the morning. Got my Race Concepts slotted rotors along with Axxis Metal Master pads f&r from Ben. They arrived today and I also picked up some silicone brake lube to apply to the caliper bolts.



After installing the rotors and new pads, what's the best way properly 'bed' my new braking hardware?

I was thinking of doing repeated stops from 30-0mph -> 40-0mph -> 50-0mph and eventually hard stops from 60-0mph. Is this the best process?

Thanks guys!

-Chike
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  #2  
Old 02-14-2005, 08:09 PM
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http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm :
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2005, 08:13 PM
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Chike,

Check out the StopTech website here: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm

This is the article concerning performance rotors/pads break-in :
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...erformance.htm
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  #4  
Old 02-14-2005, 09:12 PM
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Thanks a million Tom and John! Guess I'll be having some braking fun tomorrow...

-Chike
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2005, 01:50 AM
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That looks bloody AgRaVaTiNg to me.
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  #6  
Old 02-15-2005, 07:27 PM
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Finished up my first complete brake job today. Got telephone support from my buddy Tom (Svxfiles). Thanks a million!

It took me close to 5-6 hours to do everything (only have 2 jackstands & no power tools), but I took my time and made sure everything was done correctly!



Afterwards, I followed the instructions from the Stoptech article and braked 10 times from 60 - 10 mph. My brakes were smoking and I could smell the oily coating burning off. A few hours later (I had to go to work) I repeated this process a 2nd and then a 3rd time. My new pads and rotors should now broken in but I won't be doing any hard braking for another 100 miles. After this break-in period, I plan on repeating my 60-0 braking tests using my g-tech to see if there's any noticeable improvement.

I also plan to bleed my brakes completely this weekend. My pedal is firm, but I want to be sure no air got in my lines...
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  #7  
Old 02-15-2005, 08:21 PM
Ron Mummert Ron Mummert is offline
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Hey, Chike - Your rotors are on backwards!

You're welcome, Ron.
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2005, 08:25 PM
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How come you didn't paint the whole caliper?
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  #9  
Old 02-16-2005, 01:39 AM
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I would think to put them on that direction as well it this incorect or were you just trying to align them with the wheels?
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  #10  
Old 02-16-2005, 06:26 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by thundering02
I would think to put them on that direction as well it this incorect or were you just trying to align them with the wheels?
That's the direction the slots should go. Double-checked with Svxfiles before install.

-Chike
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  #11  
Old 02-16-2005, 06:28 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by BurgundyBeast
How come you didn't paint the whole caliper?
I did - I just didn't paint the bracket! I was going for this look...



-Chike
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2005, 06:29 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ron Mummert
Hey, Chike - Your rotors are on backwards!

You're welcome, Ron.
You're too funneh Ron!

-Chike
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2005, 09:27 AM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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That's the direction I installed mine as well. Personally, I don't think the directionality of the slots matter as much as that of the vents between the inner and outer surface. Some rotors may have vents that are biased to provide better cooling in a particular direction, and those are the ones you don't want to install backwards.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally posted by Chiketkd
That's the direction the slots should go. Double-checked with Svxfiles before install.
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  #14  
Old 02-16-2005, 03:25 PM
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Here is what Stoptech has to say on the subject. The direction of the cooling vanes inside the rotor are what is most important

http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq16.html
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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2005, 07:48 PM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
Row faster...I hear banjos!!!!
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by svxcess
Here is what Stoptech has to say on the subject. The direction of the cooling vanes inside the rotor are what is most important

http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq16.html
Thanks John. Nice find!

-Chike
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