low beams not wrkin!!! AGHHHH!! HELP PLZ!!

[VICSVX]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Current blows fuses, not voltage.
It appears that all these three lights work with the charge light, to signal an alternator/regulator problem.

Harvey.

thanks harvey, i knew that....just had a blonde moment lol

well like i said i got a high amp voltage on order so that should fix my problmes....and i gotta do that light mod again lol

thanks guys! i luv this place....SVX heaven lol

[crazyhorse]

Light bulbs are a fuse of a sort. The elements are only just slightly more fragile than a fuse. I'd double check that the correct amperage fuse is in the holder. This is more a precaution than an actual cause.

While it's true that amperage blows fuses, voltage can, and will blow light bulbs. Over-volting can burn up all kinds of things, and make wierd things happen. While the car is down you should have the battery load tested. The consistent over-voltage could have hurt it.

[VICSVX]

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

Light bulbs are a fuse of a sort. The elements are only just slightly more fragile than a fuse. I'd double check that the correct amperage fuse is in the holder. This is more a precaution than an actual cause.

While it's true that amperage blows fuses, voltage can, and will blow light bulbs. Over-volting can burn up all kinds of things, and make wierd things happen. While the car is down you should have the battery load tested. The consistent over-voltage could have hurt it.

yes sir, i just did that and the battery is good thank god lol

thanks for the info

btw, speaking of headlights, should i do the 9005 mod again or go HID?

[crazyhorse]

That's personal preference there. But I say, if you have the cash on hand do the HID's. The output is so much better.

[Trevor]

What I posted:-

[I]1. -- all is normal till the battery light, tail light out , and brake light on the dash stayed on

2. -- after driving a little way and came to a stop, the lights faded away...then i stepped on the gas and they came back! not only does steppin on the gas
make those 3 lights go on, all the interior lights get brighter as well.

3. --the hi-beams work and so does the dimmer but the low beams don't. is it the switch and short?

2. You report three trouble lights as coming on. I would have expected the steering warning lamp to be involved. Please confirm the exact configuration, as this is of special interest.

There is every chance that you have a rectifier or regulator fault WITHIN your alternator, but first check all the alternator connections and wiring.

3. If the alternator sensing circuit or voltage regulator is faulty,a high voltage may have caused the low beam lamps to fail. Check the bulbs.

The lighting positive circuit for both high and low beams, is split in two as a safety measure, with left and right separately fused and controlled by separate relays. The low beams are permanently grounded, while the high beams are switched in the negative circuit to ground, by a single relay.

As you have both high beams working, this proves that there should be positive voltage to the low beams, however these according to the manual, have a common ground, so that if this is broken the low beams would not come on. Check on the lighting ground connections.

When posting regarding a fault, I spend a lot of time and effort covering all possibilities in detail. I therefore get rather hosed off when the post is not read properly. More so when the points made become several times repeated, resulting in a confused string of text, burying what was concise advice.

Thanks for confirming regarding the fault lights which became illuminated. It is interesting that the steering fault light was not illuminated.

P.S. Advice would be helpful as to whether the steering fault light comes on during the lamp test feature, which occurs immediately after turning on the ignition.

[VICSVX]

P.S. Advice would be helpful as to whether the steering fault light comes on during the lamp test feature, which occurs immediately after turning on the ignition

what does it look like? i dont think ive ever seen it...i have the L and idk if that makes a diff

off the top of my head the only lights that come on are th: pwr, oil, abs...cant think of any others right now....but i KNOW i havnt seen a steering light?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by VICSVX

P.S. Advice would be helpful as to whether the steering fault light comes on during the lamp test feature, which occurs immediately after turning on the ignition

what does it look like? i dont think ive ever seen it...i have the L and idk if that makes a diff

off the top of my head the only lights that come on are th: pwr, oil, abs...cant think of any others right now....but i KNOW i havnt seen a steering light?

Thanks, it is likely that the power steering fault light is not fitted to some models of the SVX. This could be related to the two types, engine speed sensitive and electronic controlled vehicle speed sensitive. I have the latter on my JDM.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Current blows fuses, not voltage.

True... Sort of... the higher level of voltage determines the level of current that will blows the fuses!

I=E/R

Keith

[VICSVX]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Thanks, it is likely that the power steering fault light is not fitted to some models of the SVX. This could be related to the two types, engine speed sensitive and electronic controlled vehicle speed sensitive. I have the latter on my JDM.

ok that's what i thought. i have the engine speed pwer steering

kinda wish i had the lsi....but then again my car is even more rare

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by kwren

True... Sort of... the higher level of voltage determines the level of current that will blows the fuses!

I=E/R

Keith

You are assuming that the resistance is a constant, which it is not.
As the temperature of the filament goes up so does it's resistance, that reduces the current flow.

IXE=Watts.

It is the extra work, that increases the filament temperature, till it melts.

Harvey.

[kwren]

Thanks Harvey

Keith

[crazyhorse]

Originally Posted by oab_au

You are assuming that the resistance is a constant, which it is not.
As the temperature of the filament goes up so does it's resistance, that reduces the current flow.

IXE=Watts.

It is the extra work, that increases the filament temperature, till it melts.

Harvey.

Fuses blow in exactly the same manner. I just didn't want to confuse the issue with deep engineering maths

[kwren]

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

Fuses blow in exactly the same manner.

In your case... Only when the voltage is increased!

Keith

[Trevor]

The license which is being taken here regarding this issue, could cause the rating of a fuse to be misconstrued. A measurement in watts can not be applied and if license is taken in this regard, the measurement would be better broadly illustrated as watt hours. An extra level of work, expressed in watts can not be applied as a simplistic statement of fact.

Furthermore fuses do not blow in exactly the same manner and straight “deep engineering maths” can not be applied. Any suggested formulae must include an element of time, so that an entirely different unit of measurement becomes involved within the equation. This is accounted for within fuse engineering, and is sometimes expressed as Fp, i.e. pulse factor. For practical purposes, time verses current is best illustrated by means of a graph.

The applied voltage does not in a practical manner alter the rated value of a fuse link, as is expressed in amps, e.g. an automotive fuse is satisfactory for within a 12 or 24 volt circuit, and a fuse used in a domestic situation, 110 or 240 volts. Any expression of voltage in respect of current rating should be applied to the voltage drop across the fuse element, rather than that applied within the protected circuit and here time is of the essence.

In practice, voltage effects only the rupturing capacity of the fuse. The rated value is an indication of the current which can be carried without the fuse opening. When higher current is applied, over time, the fuse can be expected to burn out. The protective overload point is usually between 200% to 300% of rated value. How quickly this is reached, is decided by designed characteristics.

When the element as a result excessive current becomes heated to the point of maximum resistance, a destructive arc is formed. It is at this point that the element must effectively withstand and contain an explosion. Fuses designed for a high rupturing capacity, i.e. HRC fuses, include extra materials and have physical properties to this end.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The license which is being taken here regarding this issue, could cause the rating of a fuse to be misconstrued. A measurement in watts can not be applied and if license is taken in this regard, the measurement would be better broadly illustrated as watt hours. An extra level of work, expressed in watts can not be applied as a simplistic statement of fact.

Furthermore fuses do not blow in exactly the same manner and straight “deep engineering maths” can not be applied. Any suggested formulae must include an element of time, so that an entirely different unit of measurement becomes involved within the equation. This is accounted for within fuse engineering, and is sometimes expressed as Fp, i.e. pulse factor. For practical purposes, time verses current is best illustrated by means of a graph.

The applied voltage does not in a practical manner alter the rated value of a fuse link, as is expressed in amps, e.g. an automotive fuse is satisfactory for within a 12 or 24 volt circuit, and a fuse used in a domestic situation, 110 or 240 volts. Any expression of voltage in respect of current rating should be applied to the voltage drop across the fuse element, rather than that applied within the protected circuit and here time is of the essence.

In practice, voltage effects only the rupturing capacity of the fuse. The rated value is an indication of the current which can be carried without the fuse opening. When higher current is applied, over time, the fuse can be expected to burn out. The protective overload point is usually between 200% to 300% of rated value. How quickly this is reached, is decided by designed characteristics.

When the element as a result excessive current becomes heated to the point of maximum resistance, a destructive arc is formed. It is at this point that the element must effectively withstand and contain an explosion. Fuses designed for a high rupturing capacity, i.e. HRC fuses, include extra materials and have physical properties to this end.

Thanks, Trevor!
I didn't consider that...

Take care,
Keith