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#1
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How do I check the self diagnosis codes for the auto-seatbelt?
Aredubjay said:
A "problem" with the automatic seatbelt system is indicated by the seatbelt warning light flashing in 0.3 second intervals, six times (normal operation is indicated by an "on 0.5 seconds, off 0.7 seconds, on 0.5 seconds interval). The flash will occur immediately after the ignition switch is turned on. To perform self diagnosis: 1) Turn ignition switch on (with engine off) 2) Connect DIAG terminal to the number 8 terminal of the diagnosis connector. 3) Check in accordance with the trouble code outputted by the seatbelt warning light. Here are the trouble codes (remembering that a "long" flash gives units of 10 and short flash indicates units of one. One long flash and one short flash would be a code 11). 11 Open and closed ends of driver's side door latch switch are ON 12 Open and closed ends of driver's side door latch switch are OFF 13 Front limit switch on driver's side remains ON 14 Rear limit switch on driver's side remains ON 15 Front and rear limit switches on driver's side are OFF 16 Shoulder belt buckle switch and front limit switch on driver's side are OFF 21 Open and closed ends of passenger's side door latch are ON 22 Open and closed ends of passenger's side door latch are OFF 23 Front limit switch on passenger's side remains ON 24 Front limit switch on passenger's side remains OFF 25 Front and rear limit switches on passengers side are OFF 26 Shoulder belt buckle switch and front limit switch on passenger's side are OFF 32 Ignition switch is ON with battery power left OFF Only one trouble code is stored in the memory of this system. If several trouble codes are outputted, only the initial trouble code which is detected by the system is memorized. After any repairs, the automatic shoulder belt system must be operated over its entire range (with fuse #22 removed [ignition switch OFF] and with the memory cleared) to check that the seatbelt warning light blinks abnormally. (The removal of fuse #22 with ignition switch off, clears the memory) The front limit switch is located on the frontmost end of the rail, while the rear limit switch/warning switch is integrated into the locking device at the shoulder anchor. I've been trying to run this test now that I've put a working bulb into seatbelt warning light socket. I still don't know which socket to put the blue wire probe into to run this test. Is it the same socket on the black connector that we use to diagnose the Check Engine Light errors?
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#2
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Curly
It is the same black connector, but unlikely to be the same socket, as it will use a different part of the ECU memory. There should be two diagnostic terminals in the footwell. The yellow one is for the Select Monitor [Dealer computer] The black one is the one you need. It has 10 terminals in it. Numbers 1 to 4 are on top, as you look into the terminal. Numbers 5 to 10 are on the bottom, again, as you look into it. The #8 terminal is fourth from the left, bottom row, as you look in. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl Last edited by svxistentialist; 07-20-2003 at 05:12 AM. |
#3
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Thanks Joe!
Now I know it's "Rear limit switch on driver's side remains ON" (#14 from aformentioned list). "The rear limit switch/warning switch is integrated into the locking device at the shoulder anchor." Any advice as to what needs to be done? (my seatbelt is stuck in the forward postition by the way)
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#4
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You're welcome Curly.
Glad you have narrowed the problem down. Can't be much help, I have Japanese spec car, have never seen an autobelt, and have no familiarity with it. By the book, you should check first for "foreign bodies" in the rail. Assuming no physical blockage, next you would suspect the limiter switch is faulty, or the motor is junk. I am not sure where the mechanism is positioned, probably either the footwell or the base of the pillar behind driver. Rear limit switch connector is a 4 pin block. Suggested resistance is 1 M-Ohm between terminals 1 and 2, the top pair near the retention clip. The motor connector block is a 2 pin type. Open it, apply 12V DC to pins 1 and 2. Applying positive to 1, neg to 2, shoulder anchor should move to rear. Applying neg to 1, and pos to 2, moves the anchor forward to front. If you get no movement, probably your motor is toast. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#5
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Wow, I can't believe I waited this long to check everything out. I followed your directions exactly Joe and found the motor is still good. But the forward limit switch is bad.
When checking the motor I placed a 12V charge on the two pins and then reversed them. The seatbelt anchor moved in both directions just fine. When placing the Ohm meter terminals on the two upper pins of the four pin plug, I found that when the anchor was locked in the rear position it read Over Limit as it should. I then cranked the motor with the included allen wrench which moved the anchor forward and the meter read anywhere from 13 to 16 Ohms which was good. The anchor then reached the absolute forward position and it read the same 13 to 16 Ohms. In the forward position it should have read Over Limit. Therefore, I would guess that the forward limit switch is faulty. Now, anyone know how to take out the forward limit switch? PS. In the interim, I've left the 2-pin plug that carries the power to the motor unplugged so that I always have the seatbelt in the rear position.
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#6
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Take it to the limit, one more time
Hi Curly
Been so long since this thread was active, I presumed you were sorted. Glad to see you have diagnosticated your problem. Maybe if you did a PM to someone like Beav, he would have experience of these. The manual is sketchy enough. It says, unfasten five clips and tape to free limit switch harness from rail assy. The clip looks like it is square U shaped, and I'm guessing about an inch and a half square in size. It does not say if the "harness" or wires have a block connector to unplug, but I assume it would. You can probably find this out by looking in to the subaruparts.com site. The new limit switch would be shown with whatever associated wiring it comes with. Next, remove two screws, that's it, your limit switch is off. Hope this helps Joe PS: Your 5 clips look as if they "click" into place, no screws visible. You will have to lever them off I think, taking care not to break or mark them.
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#7
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Thanks Joe for quick reply, I'll try it in the next couple of days, I swear!
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'92 Touring Ebony |
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