How To: REAR BEARINGS?

[Beav]

Any clean parts cleaner solution will work. Alcohol is pretty nasty to work with, fumes, dries your hands out, cold, etc.

[svx 1994]

Does any1 knows how to the rear axle nut off without using spec tools ? the pich is already out of the bar.

[kwren]

define special tools...

Keith

[icingdeath88]

After unstaking the axle nut, and with the wheel on the ground, I used a 1/2" drive, 24" breaker bar with another 3 feet of pipe at the end and with another guy pushing down on it with me. I could have stood on the bar without it moving (but I am light). I believe it is a 32mm nut.

That's what I did, not what I'd do. Wheel bearings are one of the few still things I'd still take to a mechanic. Air tools make that job a lot easier and quicker.

[Huskymaniac]

How long does the job typically take? Part of my rear noise turned out to be a bearing.

[James Scott]

I have a HubTamer tool to remove the bearing on the car without removing the hub.. and I have an air wrench. Doing a wheel bearing is my most dreaded SVX procedure.. .

Don't forget to replace the 2 grease seals on each bearing! I forgot to order them once.. Yikes!

I never did figure out a good technique to remove the FAKE (protective) grease that the bearings are shipped with.. and to get a good proper grease injection in the bearings! Why don't they ship with quality grease.. and charge a dollar more! I'm sure my inadequate technique resulted in at least one bearing (soon) redo!

Send to mechanic.. or GuD LuK!

[Huskymaniac]

For the seals, I read on another thread that only Subaru seals should be used. Also, the Subie dealer here suggests replacing that snap ring too.

Does anyone want to comment on the need to use genuine Subaru seals or the need to replace the snap ring?

For the grease, people have mentioned brake cleaner. But these devices claim to push out the old grease and replace with new grease in one step:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W1218/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-34550/

Anyone have comments on using either of these types of devices?

[James Scott]

Common sense tells ME (only ME, probably).. that pushing new grease in.. while pushing the old shipping grease out... would not remove all of the shipping grease. If the shipping grease were decent quality bearing grease (as opposed to the "vaseline" that it seems to be).. then THAT would be alright. BUT, if it's crappy grease.. just used to prevent corrosion while on the shelf waiting to be bot, I WOULD WANT ALL OF IT OFF before placing the quality grease.

Someone here should know of its quality?? .. I don't! .. .

Just a thot!

The seals just need to be the right ones. Obviously, dealer parts will be correct.. Aftermarket MAY be.. .

If you're doing the bearing, and find out then that the seals are wrong.. YoU ArE StUcK!

[92snowmachine]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

For the seals, I read on another thread that only Subaru seals should be used. Also, the Subie dealer here suggests replacing that snap ring too.

Does anyone want to comment on the need to use genuine Subaru seals or the need to replace the snap ring?

For the grease, people have mentioned brake cleaner. But these devices claim to push out the old grease and replace with new grease in one step:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W1218/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-34550/

Anyone have comments on using either of these types of devices?

the bearing packer in the second link does a very good job of forcing the crappy thin grease out with new thicker grease. it seems to get all of the old stuff out. the first link will not get the old grease out, it's not as good as packing them by hand, probably a waste of money

[Huskymaniac]

Now, what about the grease itself!

This grease from Redline has incredible high temperature performance:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-80402/

It maintains performance against standard specifications up to 500F and has a drop temperature of 900F!!! Compare that to full synthetic Valvoline which operates up to 400F and has a drop temperature specified at 500F. Supposedly this Redline stuff is used by some Formula 1 teams. Also keep in mind that Redline uses esters in their products and esters are very good at wetting metals and conducting heat away.

I also found this useful link on the Timken website:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...nt_English.pdf

It has very specific torque specs and procedures for tightening the nut.