Thermostat question

[Huskymaniac]

What is the temperature setpoint and is the thermostat before or after the radiator in the flow path?

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

What is the temperature setpoint and is the thermostat before or after the radiator in the flow path?

Usually 180-195deg, and its after on our cars, it sits in the waterpump housing underneath.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Usually 180-195deg, and its after on our cars, it sits in the waterpump housing underneath.

Thanks. Other than installing the million dollar PWR radiator, has anyone figured out a way to get this car to run cooler as it runs pretty hot in general. I was thinking that adding water wetter would help a little but there have been mixed reviews on its effectiveness as well as possible negative impacts like a brown sludge forming in the overflow tank.

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

...has anyone figured out a way to get this car to run cooler as it runs pretty hot in general...

Please explain?

If everything is working properly, my temperature is very stable whether during the summer with the AC or during the winter.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Please explain?

If everything is working properly, my temperature and mood is very stable whether during the summer with the AC or during the winter, as long as I take my meds.

Thank you David, for that.
Now who else wants to share.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Please explain?

If everything is working properly, my temperature is very stable whether during the summer with the AC or during the winter.

I'm not saying that it is burning up or anything but it does run a good 10-20F hotter than my other cars including a 2006 Tribeca. It isn't much but maybe that is enough to rapidly age seals and gaskets. The closer to 185-190F you can run, the better...I would think.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

I'm not saying that it is burning up or anything but it does run a good 10-20F hotter than my other cars including a 2006 Tribeca. It isn't much but maybe that is enough to rapidly age seals and gaskets. The closer to 185-190F you can run, the better...I would think.

You may have a clogged radiator or something..... mine runs at normal temp and the only infra-thermo reading I can get over 200deg is from the exhaust.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

You may have a clogged radiator or something..... mine runs at normal temp and the only infra-thermo reading I can get over 200deg is from the exhaust.

Have you looked at the temperature returned by the ECU? Temps over 200F are pretty common. Infrared thermometers can be tricky. They assume an emissivity for the surface you are measuring. I'm not sure what is normally assumed but I think it is a near black body emissivity. A metallic surface has a much lower emissivity. I have a very cool industrial IR thermometer that has a variable focus IR lens on it. It also has a visible guide beam to show the spot you are measuring including its size. I can measure an area as small as 0.1mm in diameter for highly localized readings. I pull the voltage using Labview and calculate the temperature using the emissivity of the surface being measured.

[Huskymaniac]

Has anyone heard of this radiator?

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/prod...7163X7420p.htm

They supposedly have two models. This is the upgrade and looks like it has a lot of copper in it.

[svxfiles]

The ad says;
"coming soon"

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

Have you looked at the temperature returned by the ECU? Temps over 200F are pretty common. Infrared thermometers can be tricky. They assume an emissivity for the surface you are measuring. I'm not sure what is normally assumed but I think it is a near black body emissivity. A metallic surface has a much lower emissivity. I have a very cool industrial IR thermometer that has a variable focus IR lens on it. It also has a visible guide beam to show the spot you are measuring including its size. I can measure an area as small as 0.1mm in diameter for highly localized readings. I pull the voltage using Labview and calculate the temperature using the emissivity of the surface being measured.

Surface emissivity of old steel .85 -.88,

water .96-.963

Plastics .91

so with my readings on the engine coolant outlet, radiator, and filler neck steam I cant be that far off. The only time I run hot is when I ride her rough through town, and any car does that.

[dcarrb]

Don't know about actual coolant temps, but by the temp gauges my cars are rock-solid in all conditions. I've never seen either gauge reach past halfway, even in summertime traffic jams, AC blasting, with the outside temp reading 100+ (and believe me, I keep an eye on that gauge in such conditions). In stop-and-go traffic, drive-throughs and such, the needle even drops a tick, which I attribute to the work of the cooling fans. Stock radiators on both.

dcb

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Surface emissivity of old steel .85 -.88,

water .96-.963

Plastics .91

so with my readings on the engine coolant outlet, radiator, and filler neck steam I cant be that far off. The only time I run hot is when I ride her rough through town, and any car does that.

Temperature and emissivity are related by the fourth power. So, .85 could give you a 4% error in absolute temperature (K) and that equates to about a 26 degree error at 200F. But the thermometer is probably not calibrated for an emissivity of 1 so the error should be less. I have no idea how much less.

I should have clarified my statement but I was talking about driving around town. I agree that the temperature doesn't rise above 200F on the highway.

To dcarb, the temperature gauge has a dead zone that shows no movement when the car is fluctuating within its normal range. I was talking about the temperatures reported by the ECU.

On the subject of temperatures, I stumbled upon this site last night:

http://svx-motorsport-accessories.st...svxeufrbu.html

Does someone here run this business? And is this front bumper really what is used on the european and japanese versions of the SVX? It looks like it should provide better air flow and cooling. Not sure I like the looks though and I would hate to ruin the aerodynamics to improve cooling.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

The ad says;
"coming soon"

Yeah, I didn't know if that meant it was out of stock or if it still hasn't been offered for sale. If it still hasn't been sold, it will probably never "come soon".

Have you ever seen this though? It is heavier than the stock radiator but should cool much better, if it ever has or will exist.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

To dcarb, the temperature gauge has a dead zone that shows no movement when the car is fluctuating within its normal range. I was talking about the temperatures reported by the ECU.

I thought our gauge was controlled simply by a thermistor? Mine also fluctuates between norm op and slightly cooler than that due to the thermostat delay in closing. I know my engine cools below norm op within about 30 seconds of reaching the peak of mt rose pass and descending, especially if the heater is on. If the engine runs hot it sure takes more than a windy mountain climb to do it.