Rusted fuel lines from tank

[righty18]

HELP! has anybody ever had to replace the metal lines coming off the top of the tank? Or replace the fuel pump? I can't believe Subaru did not put an access panel under the seat to get to this stuff! I guess I need to drop the tank but can't seem to be able to get it forward enough to clear the suspension points. Anybody have a slick way to drop the tank???

[Blacky]

You should have asked this question before you started trying to remove the gas tank. There is an access panel just to the rear of the back seat.

[righty18]

Hi Blacky, I have the rear seat out and there is no access panel there or in the trunk! Unless it is under the mat which is glued to the seat pan! I am working on a 92!

[righty18]

Hi again Blacky,

I just went out and did some further investigation. I think I found the access panel. Of course I didn't think to pull the carpeting off the back of the seat. Looks like there is an oval panel right in the middle of the ledge between the pass compartment and the truink. Would that be the access by chance? Thanks for the help. I will be removing the carpet first thing in the morning to replace the rest of the fuel lines. Already repaired the ones coming out of the car to the fuel pump lines. All rusted under there. Gotta love PA weather conditions. Well, it is a 92 after all.

[Blacky]

That's it.
Here in Quebec salt is a killer too. I've replaced the brake lines and fuel lines on all three SVX. One has since been parked because of rot and my '97 is idle waiting for a new rear subframe.

[Sean486]

Did you just buy this car? i remember seeing one for sale up that way a few months back

[Crazy_pilot]

If they've failed somewhere around the access panel under the trunk carpet you will hopefully be able to repair them from that point. If the lines have failed somewhere around the tank you'll have to remove it to replace them. If that's the case then you'll have to drop the subframe to get the tank out. Here's how to minimize the work and time required:

-support rear diff/subframe with a 2x6 on a floor jack
-Undo the secondary bolts holding the subframe braces in place (2 ahead, 4 behind)
-Undo the 4 main bolts holding the subframe up
-CAREFULLY lower the jack. Use caution and make sure you don't overload the axle CV joints.
-Undo forward tank strap bolts and slide tank forward.

This saves you from having to fight with the suspension links, which can be fairly unpleasant.

From experience the bolts most likely to give you trouble are the forward two that secure the braces (not the subframe itself). The sheet metal there is quite thin and if those bolts seize you might rip them right out. Get some penetrating oil on there to help yourself out (you can spray it inside through a few holes in the chassis).

[Jvan]

I had to do this on both my SVX's and my mechanic was able to snake replacement rubber FUEL INJECTION hoses around the tank and into the rear floor under the back seat. He made the connections in the access panel between the rear seat/trunk and under the rear seat (driver's side) before the lines disappear in the side/rocker area. Didn't need to drop the fuel tank and didn't cost much since it didn't involve fuel tank/sub frame.

[dannmarr]

Originally Posted by Jvan

I had to do this on both my SVX's and my mechanic was able to snake replacement rubber FUEL INJECTION hoses around the tank and into the rear floor under the back seat. He made the connections in the access panel between the rear seat/trunk and under the rear seat (driver's side) before the lines disappear in the side/rocker area. Didn't need to drop the fuel tank and didn't cost much since it didn't involve fuel tank/sub frame.

I had mine done the same way.