Repair of key in ignition lock switch

[cthommes]

So I figured I'd throw this up, because my search on various problems (mostly key stuck in lock type issues) and found quite a few threads about this sort of problem. The only solution seemed to be either new ignition lock/switch assembly, or use the little lever to get your key out. I didn't like those solutions.

This was on my '92 LSL.

Symptoms:
1) No key in lock warning beep when key in ign. and door opened.
2) Completely inoperable key retention solenoid.

Now I know many of you would think these are items that could (or even should) remain defeated, but I just like everything to work as designed. I'm weird that way.

After some troubleshooting (resistances, voltages, etc.) with the wiring diagram, I couldn't find any fault with the solenoid, so I turned my attention to the key in lock switch. It was always open, regardless of key in or out of lock. I shunted the appropriate terminals in the car-side of the plug to simulate key-in-lock, and found the warning beep worked as expected. So it was obviously a fault in the switch or mechanism that activates the switch.

So I pulled the ignition lock assy out to take a look (sorry, no pics).
1) Remove lower dash panel and all steering column trim covers.
2) I removed the whole ignition lock assembly in my troubleshooting but I think this may be unneccessary. Unplug both connectors and remove the two bolts mounting the ignition lock assy to the steering column. In my case, the security bolts were replaced with regular hex head bolts so this was easy. If that's not the case, you'll have to probably monkey with vice grips or something. You may be able to skip straight to step 3 and leave the lock housing in the car.
3) Remove the light bezel from the lock cylinder (one small phillips screw).
4) Remove the lock barrel from the igition switch-- with key in and at Acc position, depress the metal relese button and pull the barrel out of the housing.
5) This will now expose the key-in-lock button switch. If anything like my scenario, the switch works perfectly fine (no continuity between the two wires, then when button is pressed there is continuity).

So at this point I turned my attention to the plastic nub on the lock barrel that retracts into the lock barrel when the key is inserted and turned. I surmised that this wasn't retracting far enough due to wear over 20 years of use. So I figured I had little to lose, and shaved some material off that nub with a sharp knife. After reassembling, the key-in-lock switch functioned again. I would recommend very small shavings and trial and error until enough is shaved off to retain functionality, but not so much that the button never gets pressed.

Reinstall into car reversing the steps for disassembly. I found that this corrected both symptoms above, and know the key-in-lock warning beep worked, as well as the key retention solenoid so I can't remove the key with the car in gear.

It also cured another symptom that I thought was unrelated-- but now I also get the correct seatbelt warning beep upon starting the car, until I attach the lap belt (or 5 or so seconds pass).

[kwren]

Originally Posted by cthommes

So I figured I'd throw this up, because my search on various problems (mostly key stuck in lock type issues) and found quite a few threads about this sort of problem. The only solution seemed to be either new ignition lock/switch assembly, or use the little lever to get your key out. I didn't like those solutions.

This was on my '92 LSL.

Symptoms:
1) No key in lock warning beep when key in ign. and door opened.
2) Completely inoperable key retention solenoid.

Now I know many of you would think these are items that could (or even should) remain defeated, but I just like everything to work as designed. I'm weird that way.

After some troubleshooting (resistances, voltages, etc.) with the wiring diagram, I couldn't find any fault with the solenoid, so I turned my attention to the key in lock switch. It was always open, regardless of key in or out of lock. I shunted the appropriate terminals in the car-side of the plug to simulate key-in-lock, and found the warning beep worked as expected. So it was obviously a fault in the switch or mechanism that activates the switch.

So I pulled the ignition lock assy out to take a look (sorry, no pics).
1) Remove lower dash panel and all steering column trim covers.
2) I removed the whole ignition lock assembly in my troubleshooting but I think this may be unneccessary. Unplug both connectors and remove the two bolts mounting the ignition lock assy to the steering column. In my case, the security bolts were replaced with regular hex head bolts so this was easy. If that's not the case, you'll have to probably monkey with vice grips or something. You may be able to skip straight to step 3 and leave the lock housing in the car.
3) Remove the light bezel from the lock cylinder (one small phillips screw).
4) Remove the lock barrel from the igition switch-- with key in and at Acc position, depress the metal relese button and pull the barrel out of the housing.
5) This will now expose the key-in-lock button switch. If anything like my scenario, the switch works perfectly fine (no continuity between the two wires, then when button is pressed there is continuity).

So at this point I turned my attention to the plastic nub on the lock barrel that retracts into the lock barrel when the key is inserted and turned. I surmised that this wasn't retracting far enough due to wear over 20 years of use. So I figured I had little to lose, and shaved some material off that nub with a sharp knife. After reassembling, the key-in-lock switch functioned again. I would recommend very small shavings and trial and error until enough is shaved off to retain functionality, but not so much that the button never gets pressed.

Reinstall into car reversing the steps for disassembly. I found that this corrected both symptoms above, and know the key-in-lock warning beep worked, as well as the key retention solenoid so I can't remove the key with the car in gear.

It also cured another symptom that I thought was unrelated-- but now I also get the correct seatbelt warning beep upon starting the car, until I attach the lap belt (or 5 or so seconds pass).

Great JOB!

Very well explained.

Thankyou...

Keith